I would just give the local heritage people a quick ring, ours are very helpful. Ring the local council planning department if you're not sure who to speak to. Even if you can potentially do it presumably you would need a structural engineer to look at it (??), you do also need to consider scaffolding costs. It does not look a particularly easy area to scaffold and you also need to be mindful of where it can be fitted on a listing building. They should be able to run the scaffold from various parts of the house, if they can't go directly under the window which looks very unlikely from the pic, but the cost may well add up.

Hi - been there done that! Start again! OK I can see there is enough clearance below the door to allow a decent fall to be created if its not enough already. This can be done using pressure treated timber firings which are essentially lengths of timber cut and tapered to dimensions according to a plan such as my example below (I realise your balcony is much smaller but you should get the idea). My firrings plan and cutting list shows 3 drain points with the firrings mitred to created falls toward relevant drain. Your local timber supplier should be happy to cut these and pressure treat resulting tapered timbers which would be fixed at 300 centres max and would have 20mm min marine plywood screwed on to them at 150mm centres. OSB 3 roofing 'chipboard' which can come in tongue and groove form would also work, I just prefer ply. They need to be planned out so that the fall of the timber firrings sends any water toward the drainage channel (if there isn't one then create one) or to the edge of your balcony where the rainwater gutter will collect it. Then use RESITRIX - we used this supplier, but there are plenty out there.... http://www.rubber4roofs.co.uk/shop/epdm-rubber-roofing which is a much stro nger version of EDPM rubber and can withstand foot traffic as it is reinforced with fabric making it almost like a wet suit - its a fantastic quality product believe me!. You paint on a black primer on to the ply, then peel the backing off the RESITRIX and apply. Be warned - as experienced people (but not exactly specialist roofers) we managed to do this very effectively, but found that extreme care is needed before committing as once the RESITRIX makes contact its sticks forever!! this is especially difficult at internal corners. Only peel back the backing plastic off the RESITRIX rubber a little at a time as you need to hold it up off the deck to ensure it doesn't make contact in wrong place. two pairs of hands can help!!If you have planned the falls correctly so that the water is sent to the drain, you will now have that long awaited water tight balcony! Now Google 'tiles for decks and balconies' and you will find no end of options of special porcelain or ceramic tiles with plastic adjustable feet for each corner of tile which allow you to place the feet and tiles level on top of your RESITRIX flat roof with no risk of penetration pif the rubber. Water goes between the tiles as they are not grouted, just placed on the feet. Not sure if the tiles you have will work without cracking - you could test this by standing on one which is supported only at corners. by the way RESITRIX happens to be one of a range of flat roof solution I have used including Kemper liquid rubber system (which is reinforced by a fleece like fabric which is simply rolled out onto a bed of liquid rubber then soaked on top with more rubber) Messy but effective, a similar process to GRP. Have also used one piece EDPM rubber which a very competent DIY'er can fit. A very economical and speedy solution, but not good for foot traffic - although they are starting to introduce reinforced versions. We are actually going to use slate grey plastic/wood composite decking http://www.wpc-decking.co.uk To do this we will PLACE a new set of firrings on top of the completed rubber deck but also will stick strips of RESITRIX to underside of firings for protection. now we will have a deck that can be lifted for maintenance in future if required. These firrings are the opposite of the ones used to create the falls, which brings the deck back to level of course! In reality we will actually adjust to maintain a slight fall so that, and the gaps in the deck takes water away. A long answer - I hope that it helps! Best of luck! Nick Wall Design + Build 07745581167

This looks brilliant Jose, has there been a glazing company sourced for this project please? Many thanks, Matthew.

Hi. The view is stunning! I'd move the table and chairs up to the left. Where the hanging basket is i'd add a small potted tree to give some height. In the corner opposite the tree I'd have an armchair angled in the corner, I'd look for something with storage to keep sheepskin throws for your chairs. I've found this one which may work with a cushion and throw added. Next to the chair i.e. in front of the door add a hurricane lamp. I'd add a large decorative mirror on the wall to reflect the view and make the space feel a bit bigger. You could also add a faux trailing plant of sorts over the mirror depending on the style of mirror. I'd go for the heater over the doors, add a small outdoor rug for under the table and chairs, add a couples of accessories for the table and a small potted plant in the left hand corner. http://www.gardensite.co.uk/garden-buildings/suncast-java-storage-chair.htm