With the front of the flat assigned to bedroom and study space it's the three rooms at the back where you could make the most change to enhance the living space. You only ever asked about furniture placement in the lounge but given that you've bought the flat are you open to making some bigger changes to maximise the space? For example, is the wall between the smallest bedroom and the lounge supporting?I'm assuming that's your study but if your partner is at home and working at the front of the house, knocking these two rooms together would give you a much more versatile space with an office area for you, with doors open onto the garden on a nice day. (Replacing with a stud wall if moving on is not a major job). Another idea might be to keep that wall up and see if the kitchen could be opened up to make an open plan kitchen/living/ dining space. The dining table could then be located near to the kitchen area. With either of these options you are losing one of those four doors which are making furniture placement awkward. Another idea (I'm full of them!!) Do you need the storage cupboard in this room? This could be blocked up so access is obtained via the largest bedroom to make a bigger wardrobe/cupboard space in there. If you'e got enough wardrobe space in there that could also be an office area with double doors to be closed off out of sight when not in use. Doing this (and moving the radiator, perhaps for a streamlined vertical one elsewhere in the room) would give you more opportunities for furniture placement. Please feel to tell me none off these are possible or appealing. I watch with interest when someone asks for an opinion on a cushion only to be given advice for the room that will see them spending £5,000!! (I do it myself to avoid getting off the couch and do something with my own house!! Plus, I'm great at spending other people's money) Best of luck and keep the photos coming as you make changes because you have grest potential with this flat and there is some fab advice on here .

Hi Nitul, I have a lot of success with planning, even for difficult projects - conservation areas, next to listed buildings, etc... So if you're looking for a new designer who can come up with alternative designs for you then my next availability for a Design Day is March 7th. This is with my Big Picture Plan - a sketch design service. You can find out more and book that here: https://www.i-architect.co.uk/bpp.html Best of luck with your project! Jane award winning chartered architect eco-home and conservation specialist www.i-architect.co.uk

I am about to have electric UFH by ukwarmfloor.com - a norwegian system that has been around for ages over there. ( I do not work for them in any way!) Running costs are MASSIVELY cheaper than our versions. Over there, they instal the mats under roofs, drives and on the decks of icebreakers - they know a thing or two about snow and cold, and so I am giving it a whirl in my guest bedroom and large en suite. This is a response from the man answering all my many questions: "The system as shown would use a total of around 375Wper hour to keep all the areas heated to a constant 26C at floor level. By way of comparison the most efficient cable underfloor system would use 975W per hour to achieve this, whilst a boiler & radiator system would use 750W per hour. Comparisons in terms of BTUs can be a little confusing as most standard tables stating average BTU requirements for domestic situations are based on the heat output of traditional radiators etc. So our system only uses 375W (given as approx 1279BTUs in traditional thermal conversion tables)to do the job that a traditional boiler/radiator system would need 750W to do(given as approx 2559 BTUs). Our system is primarily designed specifically to produce the same air temperature in a room as other systems but to use less power to do so. The two basic reasons for this are: The heating element is self-regulating - only ever drawing the minimum required power at any individual point across the floor to maintain the set temperature. 2. The heating element heats the entire floor area and so effectively turns the whole floor of the the room into a radiant surface, heating the entire volume of air in the room from the bottom up. This is unlike radiators, which only heat a small surface, typically at the sides of a room, or a cable or piped underfloor system which can only heat thin strips of floor, leaving most of the floor surface unheated. Because our system heats the entire area it need only heat to 26C to produce effective air temperatures in the room. Other systems have to heat to much higher temperatures to do this and so require more energy to do so." I have spent an inordinate amount of time reading everything on their system, and I am going to use it. There is also a video of a customer installing it on youtube and the link is on their site somewhere.

Sorry you are right the measurements for the current kitchen is 3.23mx2.4m (10'7"x7'10") I plan to convert it into a bathroom but will a kitchen fit in a 6 meter extention?