Çomments

Reply to: We have one of 50” and it is, in a word, FANTASTIC! We bought a separate wood frame for it that snaps around the tv with magnets. The separate frame company is in Virginia and the wood frames around the frame tv make all the difference. They add another $550 to the cost but it is well worth it. Dh, who got it for father’s day, was skeptical of the hype and did not want one. I did and bought ot for him amyway and he LOVES it. The participating museums and collections change the art monthly and we have a lot of fun looking at the new selections and reading about them. Each work has a paragraph or two about the artist and the subject or setting, etc. Its a great television, btw. We just use it for streaming services and you can see it just fine from wherever you would normally sit to see a screen. Everyone who sees it wants one!

Q

Reply to: motherof3sons - How are you? So nice to see your name come up and I am very late in responding to you! That is so funny about your fixed Roman shade; I remember your beautiful kitchen but forgot about that comment (it seems rather impertinent now). As an update on this, I ended up finding a fabric remnant at Zimman's which I love and which goes so very well with the kitchen elements. I had a fixed Roman made from etsy vendor Drawn and I am just so very happy every time I notice it. I also painted the wall the same color as my cabinets (Farrow and Ball's Pointing); previously it had a blue tint. As always, thank you all for the help in getting me to this point!

Q

Reply to: I am attaching a picture of the sealer that my fabricator used: Tenax Hydrex. I have heard lots of people recommend Miracle 511 Porous Plus.

Q

Reply to: I'm sitting in my family room painted with Cashmere and Emerald. The Emerald is below the chair rail in a room with only 3 walls, 6 windows, 2 doors and a fireplace -- I only needed a quart and it wasn't available in Cashmere (looks like it is no longer available in Emerald).. The Emerald is thick and covers very well -- I was painting over navy and could almost have gone with one coat -- but it still looks better with two. IIRC, the Emerald is so thick it dries more quickly and can lift off the wall if you go back over the surface after it starts drying. That might be what people were taking about in not adhering? And you could see a difference if you roll back over partially dried paint -- could that be the streaking? You need to wait to do a second coat or touch up and not be tempted to go back and fix that spot now -- but once properly applied, dry and cured -- haven't had any issues with the paint staying on the wall, durability or rubbing off. If you are having a painter apply it, they should know how to handle it. The Cashmere is not as thick, is a little more forgiving if you come back as it dries, covers well, has a rich, soft finish (I like the Emerald finish as well and with different colors can't say for sure that I would prefer one over the other) and I've had no issues with it wearing well or cleaning well in our family room, breakfast room, kitchen or guest room. We are about to paint the living room, front hall and stairwell with Cashmere. If you were doing a kitchen or bath, Emerald might have the advantage, but otherwise -- I think any of those top three paints should make you very happy. We had one store stop selling Benjamin Moore and another close and wasn't going to drive an hour to a paint store, so I've been working with SW lately. I went begrudgingly at first, but I've been very happy with the paint -- interior DIY and exterior done by a pro.

Q

Reply to: I just had the bulk of my house painted in early November. My decorator suggested Satin as the sheen. It is the designation that SW uses for eggshell. My painter preferred Duration over Emerald. From what I could find online, there is little to no difference between Duration and Emerald except VOC. I kept the windows open from an hour or so before the painters arrived until 2 or 3 hours after they left. There was no paint odor at all. Here is a link to the thread where I asked for similar information

Q

Reply to: I adore SW low lustre in Cashmere. Goes on easy, has a nice finish. Definitely not dead flat but not super shiny either. It's been my paint of choice for 9 years.

Q

Reply to: Cheepchinesecrap. Kohler is 20x better quality. 2K per shower is about average middle of the road costs for hand shower plus with thermostatic valves rather than pressure balancing. Go with Delta and pressure balancing if you want less expensive. Or all Delta. Just no cheepchinesecrap.

Q

Reply to: I'll link to the one I've used. I have a heavy platter hanging in my kitchen, which I've never touched in the ten or so years it's been up, so I'd say it's good and strong. I've hung a few more things with these discs over the years and never had a problem. I do remember something about wetting the disc and letting it set up for a bit, so perhaps people were impatient and rushed it. Honestly, I can't say enough good about them. I find them far easier to use than the kind that you attach to the edges with springs. Flatiron Disc

Q

Reply to: @mayflowers (and anyone else who is reading), colors are not thrown off by the Kelvin temperature. They are thrown off by the CRI. You can have lower temperatures and a high CRI or higher temperatures and a low CRI. Important to look at the labels. You want the highest CRI possible, e.g. 90 or better. The difference between the higher temperatures and the lower ones is the spectrum range: higher numbers go colder, lower go warmer. Here's a good chart for reference:

Q

Reply to: Either your realtor is inexperienced, there is more nuance to what she is saying than you are understanding, or your realtor doesn't have your best interest at heart. A buyer is not required to fix anything in a house, unless the contract specifically has a cost-of-repair contingency, which are rare these days. However, there is some nuance there, once a seller becomes aware of a material defect they must reveal that defect to other buyers and unless you are in a hot market, that often leads to them fixing the item. If I learn I am going to have to replace a roof, I am better off negotiating that roof into the contract I have in front of me than putting it back on the market. However, if a better back-up offer comes in, the seller is not going to protect the existing contract. Even if the seller must eventually repair those things they will generally pick the contract that has the return after the repairs. There is also the possibility that your realtor is going to bat for the seller, since he is a realtor, although unethical it is not unheard of. I have seen realtors protect their relationship with other realtors over their client. ----- Here is my 2 cents about your situation... You now have new information, that information can make you second guess your purchase or firm it up. In my experience, this type of communication usually means that the seller has gotten a better offer, although that is a guess, it is my best guess. I would take that as a sign that your offer is good. I would now wait for the inspection before I made any decision. However, it is really hard to know your financial situation and the financial impact of an inspection. If you decide to go forward with the inspection ask your realtor one simple question via email... What is the very latest time and date that we can cancel the contract due to the inspection clause? Ask even you already know and ask the realtor to respond via email. I am not advising you wait for that date, in fact, I would advise against you waiting, but since these are nuanced signals, send the seller a message that you intend to take your time. Then again, I may be a bit adversarial so see what others say.

Q

Reply to: Try this based on the 3-seat part of your sectional

Q

Reply to: Sure thing. A couple of my thoughts based on what I've learned: 1. Motors -- if you want motorized shades most people seem to recommend Somfy or Lutron. Skip this section if you want manual. Lutron makes everything (shades, motors, fabric) and their selection is limited. The Shade Store has recently started offering their products with either Shade Store's own motors (which I'm told are made in China) or a Lutron upgrade. The Lutron shades are very costly and The Shade Store quote I got with the Lutron option was so high as to be nonsensical. I interviewed various vendors on this topic and read up to reach this conclusion. The reason being is that these motors can break. Not now, not next year, but someday. And most vendors make motors today that work with the shades they sold you today. They don't make them with an intent to ever service them--so the motors sold today don't work with the shades they sold 5 years ago. And, in the future, when they change their motor from being power by batteries to being powered by rechargable plug-in or solar or whatever that new style motor won't fit in your shade or work with it--it will only fit the redesigned shades they are selling then. So if your shade breaks after the standard 5 year warranty is over--too bad for you. You've got to buy a new one. They don't repair them and they have no parts around for the old models. Hunter Douglas people dance around this question but the Shade Store woman told me point blank they will never repair or service a dead shade and if its out of warranty you cough up for a new one. They also cannot be operated manually or converted to manual operation. And if its part of a matching set in a room, you may need to buy ALL new ones. The Somfy motors, made in France, are not designed like this and new models can be retrofitted to old shades. They also appear to be much more reliable than others per consensus of everyone I interviewed. Somfy motors can work with LOTS of different shade brands, whereas "closed systems" like HD and Shade Store only are available with their own motors. 2. Discount options -- Bali/Levelor products widely available online and at Lowes/Home Depot are very practical and functional and will work for a lot of spaces and cost wayyy less than these options. Less choices, lower quality, however. Maybe use these strategically in some bedrooms or rooms that are set apart from the others to save cash--that's what I did. Splurge for key spaces where the product offering is unique by the luxury brand. 3. Other quality brands -- Graber (graberblinds.com) and Norman (normanusa.com) are two great brands I discovered. There are others too. Norman has an amazing product called "Smart Drape" that works well for sliders/french doors if you like the curtainy look and beats the HD "Luminette" on both price and functionality (half as much as HD). I think both brands have Somfy motor options (I know at least Graber does). Both of these brands are sold by independent dealers like Hunter Douglas is. I would find a local blind and shade person with top Yelp reviews or by referral that you like that sells ALL sorts of brands and will work through your needs with a focus on functionality, not brand names--you will find better options at a better price point. Don't get someone who pushes one thing over the rest (usually only a problem when Hunter Douglas is in the mix--they must get bigger margins on that stuff). I tried to do my homework and I learned way more about this topic than I ever intended to (or ever wanted to know), but it helps makes me confident in my choices. It's super expensive to do a whole house so I think it's worth the effort to pound the pavement or take multiple sales meetings/"consultations". Good luck!

Q

Reply to: I agree with Elmer. Any good conversation - heck, any good friendship! - requires give and take. I have a few good friends. We're talking people I would walk through fire for. The reason they are good friends is that when we get together, we each take turns talking. They tell me what's going on or important to them, then I get to talk about the same from my perspective. We ask each other questions and we care about the answers. I will listen to anything any of those beloved people want to share with me, because I know they feel the same way about me. It's the people I call "machine gun chatters" who bore me to tears. I've known a few people through the years who don't care what you have to say - they just seem to view you as a captive audience for them to fill up the airwaves with any/every thought that pops into their tiny head. It feels like rapid-fire verbal assault to me. (Yes, that's somewhat melodramatic - but I think it makes my perspective clear!) It gives me a headache and bores me to tears. If you don't care enough to even let me have a word in edgewise....we will not be spending much time together.

Q

Reply to: I only buy rug pads from RugPadUSA. I've never had one deteriorate, 15yrs. They don't stick to floors or leave shadows. Superior Lock (for wood, stone and tile floors) is my usual choice. They have great sales... having one now.

Q

Reply to: I’d head to IKEA for a configuration of storage/shelves Budget permitting, love the idea below Then you could add large prints on both sides. Ones below come in color or black and white, in different sizes, plus frame and mat options https://www.potterybarn.com/m/products/jennifer-meyers-framed-print-together/?cm_cat=116548&irpid=116548&irgwc=1&pkey=e%7cfarmhouse%7c88%7cbest%7c0%7c1%7c48%7c%7c34&cm_ite=None&clickid=3nT0Jj2vAxyLWQd07OwzdzZ-UkEzIMzV3zmsS00&cm_ven=afshoppromo&bnrid=3317500&cm_src=PRODUCTSEARCH&cm_pla=ir

Q

Reply to: I wanted to color match at first but have read that it‘s not always accurate and the color would be slightly different in every can as well. A brand can either color match another brand's color using its own, home paint bases and colorants or it can't. If they can mix an acceptable match once, it's repeatable it gallon to gallon. Best way to do a F&B color match is to order a sample can from F&B and paint a swatch. Two, evenly applied coats. Take the sample can and the painted swatch to the store so they can take a shot at mixing a match.

Q

Reply to: We did LVP throughout our Florida home. DH was a snob but now a convert. Like Ratherbe, we used Cortec. I learned about it from one if our members here. I plan to use it in my basement up north to replace carpeting.

Q

Reply to: Last year I downsized to a 4.5 tree I ordered from Amazon and out of all the trees I've had that cost $$$$, the appearance of this tree when lit just blew me away. I put it on a table, not the floor. My tree Here is National Tree Company's website on Amazon for slim trees. If I were to go back to a taller tree I'd get one from this company. ETA: Notice the good ratings on their slim trees. Also, the years I had the white tree with lots of colorful ornaments, we had a ton of compliments. Go white!

Q

Reply to: Ok, so if neither is real wood, I wouldn't waste the time. Do you like the looks of the baseboards? the thinner look? normally 5" is what's in right now. you can find it (if you know where to shop) for about 35 cents a foot. and it's super easy to paint. it's already primed. Show this pic to anywhere that carries baseboards, and they'll get it for you These are mine. you can see most of them in this pic. the opening is also a larger, flat type of trim. I would do this around all of your interior doors. So the reason I say replace, is it looks better, and is easy to install if you have a few tools. Do you have any plans on changing out your flooring? If yes, then just wait and redo all the baseboards then. If no, then think about doing it now. If you want to spend all that time to paint what's there, you'll have to clean them very well, then lightly sand in order to take off the gloss, Clean them again to wipe down all the dust, then prime (you can't skip these steps) , lightly sand AGAIN, then you can paint. That's the only way you can keep them from peeling and looking good. BTW, if you ever change your flooring and DONT redo the baseboards, then you'll have to install shoe molding. see the little white molding up next to the baseboards? that's shoe. and it hides the gap up against the old moldings that's why I mentioned if you're going to change flooring, then remove old baseboards and take the new flooring up to the wall, and put new moldings right down on top of new floor.

Q

Reply to: A bit of a funky design to begin with. A far better approach would have been a 'good neighbor fence' with the pickets alternating on both sides of the fence. The advantage is that it provides the same uniformly attractive appearance on both sides and while providing gaps/spaces for wind penetration, it still offers complete privacy. At this time after the fact, you can plant shrubs in front to screen, cover with bamboo screening or simply cover the gaps with narrower pickets (could make an interesting pattern). If well constructed and not in a high wind area, wind shouldn't be an issue.

Q

Reply to: For the vase- how about something simple like preserved eucalyptus branches? I recently I purchased some on Etsy.

Q

Reply to: With that small alcove outside the Master Bedroom I don't think the size of the room is an issue IMO. You could use that alcove to the right or left of the bedroom door for built-in closets or some other type of attractive storage for the bedroom and keep your Master Bedroom with just the bed and two nightstands. For 'storage' I am thinking along the lines of a custom closet. A couple of insp pics for you below but naturally there are many more options/choices/designs

Q

Reply to: The Mapai Flexcolor CQ is my choice and the color holds extremely true. Antimicrobial and pre-sealed. It is my "go to" grout. Only warning is that it needs to cure 7-10 days before exposure to water...

Q

Reply to: I Just added this one to our recipes Cakes & Pies

Q

Reply to: Chocolate Sour Cream Cake Posted by Glenda_al on Wed, Apr 11, 12 at 12:42 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 3 tablespoons baking cocoa 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup sour cream 1 egg 1.Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Coat an 8-inch square baking dish with cooking spray. 2.In a large bowl, combine all ingredients; beat until smooth. Pour batter into baking dish. 3.Bake 25 to 30 minutes, or until a wooden toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.Let cool, then cut into squares. Top with whipped cream, frosting of choice, or dust with confectionate sugar. I dusted with confectionate sugar, when it had completely cooled but the moistness from the cake dissolved it. Served it with cool whip.

Q

Reply to: Here’s a basic graph breakdown cost average of the last 5 years of jobs. That doesn’t include structural changes, as those are outside standard replacement costs, and vary so widely. I’m an independent kitchen designer, and have done remote e-designing for about 7 years. I find it freeing to be able to give a good value to a client, without worrying about a commission. I’d strongly suggest that you connect with someone like that, who works for you, for the best design. If they are local, they can even be an owners representative to project manage, with you being the general contractor of record. I’ve done that plenty of times too. Good luck with your journey!

Q

Reply to: Are the installers lighting designers? I think you should address the problem about their not dimming all the way down; that would reduce the glare. If they are LED lights and the dimmers are designed for LEDs, there should be an adjustment in the dimmer for the minimum brightness.

Q

Reply to: I’d work on resolving for both short and long term and suggest using a landscape designer. You can then do as much or little of the work on your own over time. Short term: decide on a suitable location where you can start enjoying your privacy ASAP by adding a trellis and optional arbour. Climbers are quick growers and in no time, they will add even more privacy. Long term: I‘d skip a border of trees for so many reasons and instead use variations and plant strategically, where they will have the most impact. Creating a berm will also help with the added height. Also add to the area that is already there. Your yard will eventually have natural looking barriers and also down the road if selling, really increase the value of your home. https://www.hunker.com/13713309/how-to-create-a-shrub-island-landscape-berm

Q

Reply to: One other consideration is the height of your ceiling. Here's a nice article on spacing recessed LED's https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/company/news-insights/lighting-resource/homes/spacing-guide-for-recessed-led-lighting0.html

Q

Reply to: Any polyurethane with a bit of a sheen will have a look of "plastic" (whatever that means) because it is film sitting ON TOP of the floor. Anything that is a film that sits ON TOP of a product will give the impression that the floor has a finish...something protecting it. It is the nature of the beast. It is what it is. I've seen the 2K Supra AT satin on hundreds of floors. It has a lovely velvety feel under foot. It is low-slip with a "glow" to it that does not quite rank as shiny. Like all Satins, it starts off life with a stronger glow (almost a semi-gloss) but then calms down (about 1-2 months later) to a lovely mid-range satin. I personally love the look, because I like a bit of glow...but I don't like the hassle of a semi-gloss. The 2K Invisible Protect has the same qualities but without the glow. it is a "raw wood" looking finish. It will look as if the floor has nothing on it. I've not used the Invisible, but I've seen finished projects with it...it has a different appearance to it. The Invisible is SUPPOSED to look like a hard-wax oil finish (like Rubio) but with all the benefits of a film coating (no maintenance, excellent scratch resistance, durable for 20+ years, etc). It is supposed to be the best of both worlds. If you want to try a bit of the Loba 2K Supra AT Satin out, a company called iCork Floor LLC carries the 1 litre (quart size) of the product. For less than $100 (including shipping) you can have a bottle of it shipped to you. You and your refinisher than then try it out losing too much money. FYI....iCork Floor LLC is one of the ONLY companies in NORTH AMERICA that carries the 1 Litre size. The shipment must be specially ordered from GERMANY! That's how rare it is to find the 1 litre size (and the fact that the minimum order is 130 CASES...with a shelf life on 12 months). www.icorkfloor.com They will help with the 1 litre size if you wish to try it out.

Q

Reply to: Loba makes a matte finish in the 'AT' line: Loba Invisible Protect AT = matte. https://www.loba.de/us/products/waterborne-finishes/2-component-waterborne-finishes/product/2k-invisibleprotect-at/ The 'AT' means 'Advanced Technology' which is a ceramic nano-bead infused water based polyurethane. It is the toughest finish available out of a 'can' (factory finishes with Aluminum Oxide are technically a snick tougher...but they arrive in 50gallon drums...not cans). Go ahead and click on the link. It will take you directly to the Loba site and the InvisibleProtect. It is a magnificent finish...personally I prefer the satin of the 2K Supra AT...but then again I hate dull floors that look like they have never seen a mop.

Q

Reply to: You can use flooring mastic for a sound dampener and also, there are 1/16" rubber underlayment designed for sound proofing. It will cost more than Quiet Walk or Quiet Walk Plus for material and installation. If, Quiet walk is out of your budget. Just purchase any foam underlayment from Home Depot and nail through it. It doesn't compare to Quiet Walk for performance but, will cut down on cost and a little bit of the noise. Your flooring will be wavy and when the underlayment become fully compressed. Your floor boards will become loose and squeaky.

Q

Reply to: Then primed with an oil based primer! When in doubt always test to see what type of paint it is. If it comes off on a rag with denatured alcohol it’s latex. If it comes off with mineral spirit it’s oil base. When in doubt always prime with an oil base primer; you can then topcoat with whatever you like!

Q