We have loads of options that would work from your description and that are very reasonably priced. I would suggest considering: A very skinny ladder rail that could go between the shower and the loo (I am not sure of the maximum width you have but e.g. Our Ashdown and Svelte start at only 300mm wide. http://www.featureradiators.co.uk/Towel_Rails.htm http://www.featureradiators.co.uk/Towel_Rails.htm The Shaft - a single heated vertical pole http://www.featureradiators.co.uk/Prices/TowelRails/2014%2011%2002%20-%20Shaft.pdf Our Ladda (leaning style) http://www.featureradiators.co.uk/Prices/TowelRails/2015%2012%2001%20-%20Ladda.pdf Or we offer various shelf options as previously suggested. Feel free to give me a call on 01274 515734 to discuss. Warm wishes!

From this site: http://www.contractflooringjournal.co.uk/blog/anhydrite-screeds-handle-with-care/ The second paragraph: Although calcium sulphate screeds are sometimes sold and applied as a fast track option, their drying times are in fact similar to sand/cement screeds: typically 1mm per day up to a thickness of 40mm, and then an additional two days per mm over this. So at a max of 70 mm you are possibly looking at a total of around a hundred days full drying time. However, you are now well over the drying time as regards the chemical reaction that hardens the cement, is it simply still damp or has it not gone off properly and hardened? As Bespoke Interiors mentions, a dehumidifier will help to reduce general humidity and help to dry the floor if it has gone off, otherwise if the floor is not hard then you have an issue either with the product or the application of the product. I recommend reading the whole article to give you some background knowledge, that's assuming it is a calcium sulphate cement, calling it calcium cement instead of the full name means it could be any one of several cements with different calcium compounds that have different properties. Calcium aluminate cements are also used for decorative floors and calcum oxide is the basis for Portland cement.

Hello! We have done two things which relate to some of the issues you describe. However, I should point out that we don't have a cellar; we have ground around 30cm below our ground floor joists. We have wooden floorboards rather than concrete - but I would imagine concrete would be easier to insulate, perhaps from below, in the ceiling of the cellar? Anyway, this is what we did: We insulated under our floor borads on the ground floor. (Note that not every single one has to be lifted, you lift a few every foot or so). Celotex was inserted between the joists. There is a risk the insulation will fall out onto the ground below, so they cut it slightly too big and then hammer it in. It's wedged in very tight and we have had none fall out two years later. As I wrote in my post above as well, we added angled vent covers outside to reduce the draft coming in under the floorboards. We were very concerned about air cirulation when doing all of this, but we have come to the conclusion that the air circulation is already so large under our ground floor, that the celotex and vent covers aren't really an issue. It's not like we have sealed everything shut, there are still plenty of tiny gaps everywhere. We haven't had any issues with mould or anything like that. The other thing we have done more recently is to balance our radiators. We had the problem that our front room was extremely cold relative to the rest of the house (although we had high spec/high BTU radiators in all rooms). We thought this may have been due to low power on the radiators, but in fact after doing a big rebalancing exercise, it's now the warmest room in the house. We're quite surprised how much of a difference rebalancing makes. There are plenty of guides online which we followed; essentially, what you do is you first check how open each radiator is (check the lockshield valve, not the TSV!). We wrote this down on a piece of paper for each radiator in the house (e.g. "fully open", "3/4 open", etc). We then put the heating on from cold and ran around the house checking which radiator fires up first/last. Made a note of this on paper. We then realised that in our case, although the front room radiator was fully open (which would suggest it should get the hot water first), in fact so were many of the radiators that are closer to the boiler. As a result, the hot water was going to those closer ones first (it takes the easiest route). The solution was to close the lockshield valves on the radiators closer to the boiler (not completely, you do it 1/4 of a turn at a time and check the effect). After a few runs we were able to get to a point where the hot water was filling up the front room radiators first. Now it's great. I hope this can help you! Good luck!

Hi. This is very good question and you are doing well to stop and think. Yes comparing wooden floor and tiled floor with under floor heating it's quite difficult as theirs heat conductivity can’t be more apart. With the same Watts (for wooden flooring is recommended 150W) Tiles will feel much much warmer. The surface of wooden floor would be just pleasantly warm. Wood insulates much better so the heat lost will be greater than on tiles. Also, you need to use reflective underlay not to loose any heat into concrete subfloor or hallow floor board floor. Your builder should be aware of few things which are different from laying the floor without the underfloor heating. Dilatation gap around the room 8-10 mm , thickness of the floor max 18mm (still would recommend the thicker the top layer the better 3-4mm do go for veneer as it’s almost impossible to resend and rejuvenate the floor. If possible, monitor air and the wood moisture and temperature. Basically, the wood shouldn’t be too dry or wet and not too cold. Just store it for couple of days in the room where it will be laid. Don’t keep it in the garage or outside particularly now in winter. I could go much longer but I guess it might be easier if you check links bellow. Please don’t hesitate to ask for more info if you have a specific type of flooring already chosen etc. https://www.kahrs.com/en/how-to/underfloor-heating-and-wood-flooring/ https://www.warmup.co.uk/underfloor-heating/floor-coverings/wood