Porcelain will last, I've researched it quite a bit as I was planning on using this. Reason I didn't is that my garden ( new build) doesn't drain very well so I've had to get a number of drainage runs put in. As the porcelain tiles have to be laid using a solid concrete base, it's out the question as we will dig down and hit the drainage. If you don't have any issues I would say go for it, it will look the same in 10 years as it does when its first laid, hardly any upkeep to keep it looking great and don't think you will be disappointed. BUT it's a lot of work to get it down and you will have to account for the water run off as it' won't absorb any water.

Hello, Sounds like an exciting project! We would definitely recommend using porcelain tiles rather than ceramic, as ceramic tiles aren't frost proof so could shatter come winter, ruining all your hard work! A full bodied porcelain would be your best option, in a matt finish so it's not slippery. Porcelain is also suitable with underfloor heating, just ensure you use a flexible adhesive and grout. We have lots of grey porcelain options, which you can see on our website here. We're happy to send out free samples of our tiles and if you do have any questions, our sales team can help you out. Good luck with your project! Sophie // Floors of Stone

As a tile importer and retailer, it's very rare for a porcelain tile to crack if installed properly. I'd not recommend juggling your Le Creuset to test the theory though... More and more tilers are using a decoupling matting such as Durabase to take as much movement out of the tile as possible. We also supply flexible adhesive and grout, so with a properly flat floor, it's rare for us to get a call from a grumpy client. We supply a lot of large format "infinity" look tiles, where you have an identically sized anti-slip External version of the Interior tile. Most are 8-9mm, so need a concrete base that mirrors the internal floor. If there is a 20mm version, then a sand & cement base can be used. As for kitchens, always tile the entire floor before the kitchen goes in. This means that the kitchen installer has a blank canvas to work on. It also means that the floor is completely sealed, so the chances of liquid ingress under the tiles (under the units) is pretty much nil. Finally, it also means that if you have any white goods that fail under the work surface, they can just be slid out, rather than having to remove what could be long an heavy lump of marble or granite to get them out. The additional cost will be negligible compared to an insurance claim...

I have had first hand experience of light coloured porcelain tiles . I have 2 patios. They were laid incorrectly - the fall was too shallow . This means water stands and won’t drain. You MUST make sure the fall is right both cross and longitudinal and that there is somewhere for the water to drain . Thankfully the designer and gardener have agreed to redesign and replace 25 sq metres at their cost but it’s all been very stressful. Aside from that the tiles are filthy as the dirty water just gets walked in. If we had to keep them we’d have to karcher every day just to keep them clean. If I were you I’d send them straight them back and get a porous stone . Suffice it to say we are having the whole lot replaced with porous stone /grout/gravel and planting to take up the water. There are lots of u tube videos about how to lay this stuff but in my experience you need someone who has laid a lot of it and I think they are few are far between My advice - don’t touch it Good luck