Please suggest some good design for this staircase this is small dining ( 11 x 11 ) with high ceiling I'm uncomfortable to see the second plight of the staircase want to close that from the floor and use the space for chest drawer any body can help me

Hi Maggie. We are doing the same but have been fortunate enough to have an interior designer friend who has given us great advice: - Ground to 1st floor stairs: runner with taped sides and carpet rods. This carpet is different to all of the others and finishes at the top step. -1st floor landing, stairs from 1st to 2nd and 2nd floor landing in a dark grey carpet all the way to the edge as far as possible - better for hiding marks, wear etc. These areas don't 'normally' have runners. - All bedrooms except master are in a lighter grey. - Master bedroom in a slightly more luxurious carpet. I hope that helps a little. I really wouldn't worry about having different carpets on the stairs. The ground floor stairs are normally a little more elaborate as this is what you see on entering the house. Good luck with it all.

Without looking under the carpet its hard to say. That said its also the last job you should do in the house. You don't want tradesmen (or yourself) trucking muck onto a nice new runner whilst plastering/painting/sanding is still ongoing upstairs elsewhere. Any house built before 1940 is more likely to have nicer wooden treads. Often they are painted white just down the sides precisely because they would have had a runner previously. Newer homes can be hit or miss - worst case would be if they're ply or similar in which case you're pretty much restricted to just re-carpeting. Are you able to check the stair underside if you have a cupboard under the stairs? At least that'll confirm if they're solid wood. I stripped my stair carpet a while ago, taking it up is pretty easy - you just need a little patience. A flathead screwdriver is best for digging out staples whilst I found wedging a metal scraper between the gripper strip tacks and the floor, and then again using a flathead under the scraper to lever the strips up worked best (see pic). Give the stairs a good hoovering and wipe down, then use some wood filler (sometimes referred to as spackle) to fill in the holes left. Finally sand if needed (and if you want a perfect finish) and paint as desired - leave the middle as it won't be seen and so you can walk up and down when its drying. It took me an afternoon to remove the carpet, staples and gripper rods. Then another couple of hours to fill in the holes. I used Dulux Once Satinwood on the edges after priming which is very forgiving as it only needs one coat and levels itself so you don't get brushstrokes. Only downside is that its oil based so you need white spirit to clean the brushes. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ronseal-HPWFN550G-550g-Performance-Filler/dp/B001GU2H6S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506440774&sr=8-3&keywords=ronseal+wood+filler

Hey Sarah, I did a quick blog to explain period features back in October https://www.ovololondon.co.uk/new-blog/2019/10/15/a-quick-guide-to-period-features Did you know they were actually called dwarf rails before dado rails? Naturally I will be biased and lean towards keeping the dado rail. I love features which add character to a building, after al that is why we purchase period properties. Hopefully you see lots of pictures here to inspire you. You can add wall panels and picture rails if you wanted to go 'full period features' but that can be a bit overbearing for some. Best of luck!