I love gas, it gives you great control, my food is so much better, less burning, better crusts on steaks... and gas and copper are increadibly fast to repond for delicate sauces - something the induction pots and pans I have used so far just can't match. Add to that, gas works when there is no electricity - a problem where I live - and is incredibly inexpensive compared to electricity. I grew up using gas, and I was soooo jealous of all my friends who had electric, until I finally got electric in my first home. it was TERRIBLE! Jealousy gone, I spent 15 years in agony in the kitchen until I could aford to go back to gas. Now, with induction, it is faster to respond than electricity, but it still requires electricity, and I'm still dealing with the learning curve. It is easier to do a wipedown from simple, non-technical cooking, but you have to be very careful, as the glass tops scratch, and are fragile and much of my beautiful cookware is useless - my heavy cast iron scratches, and can easily shatter an induction top and my lovely copper cookware doesn't work on induction. So, I vote for both. A couple of induction burners for what it does best, and using my multiply stainless steel, and for quick cleanup and gas where it excels.

Luke, are you still here? if so a few questions. I have just had my PUXA hob fitted flush in a Quartz worktop which is white. As in the pics above, there are very tiny 'chips' in the cut edge of the quartz. Would a black sealant not accentuate these, and would white not be preferable, as at least the glass edge of the hob is perfectly straight so the sealant would be less obvious? Also is this OTTO stuff Ok to use on Quarrtz as this is not natural? Thanks

You have a few ways to get round this, I doubt diy kitchens would be able to do this for you but your fitter should be able to, but bearing in mind a lot of hobs now also specify the fitting of a heat resistant board and an air gap even 60mm might not be enough. the top cutlery drawer can be lowered by about 12-15mm and the drawer front repositioned is easy to do change the pan drawer to a 2 drawer with internal drawer, if diy kitchens use blum tandembox drawers, these pan drawers come in 2 heights and change the top pan drawer (type D 224mm) for the type C which has a lower back and gallery rail at 162mm, the internal drawer can then be lowered, you might have to source your own drawer boxes. change the drawer unit to a 1 pan and 3 cutlery drawer and dummy the top drawer if diy kitchens have 175 tall drawer fronts at 800 wide (doubt it) then have a 1 pan drawer at 355 tall and 2 cutlery drawers at 175 consider a 'true handleless' design which has a handle rail machined into the carcase of about 60mm so the drawers are well clear of the hob, don't believe diy kitchens offer 'true handleless' though. looking at your picture i'd also check that the extractor is going to fit in the gap between the wall units.

Does it look like the glass has dulled? In which case I bet it is a film that just needs cleaning off. The hob manufacturers generally recommend you don’t use any abrasive cleaners but personally I don’t think the spray and wipe ones will cut it here. So I would look at the instruction manual to use their recommended cleaner first. Then if that cleaner and some elbow grease doesn’t work I would try a cream cleaner and a scourer for non stick pans. I’m sure there will be posters that wouldn’t go against the manufacturers instructions but in your situation I would be pragmatic and feel the visible problem now needs tackling. Lastly you can call the engineer and have the glass replaced. Of course there is a cost implication but this is what they do if you break the glass.