Hi, Charlie, This looks like an interesting plan -- what are you doing about lighting for the work surfaces? Will you have under-cupboard lighting? I know you say you don't like downlights (recessed spots), however they can be extremely useful (on a separate circuit) to have as additional worktop lighting, to make sure you don't work in the dark! Their unobtrusiveness also allows you to have the style of light fittings elsewhere that you want, which might not be enough light on their own. Regarding the ceiling fittings; I do get that different ceiling heights are a challenge. It all depends on what you want to light, and if the lights as positioned will work for your lifestyle. However, I wouldn't worry too much, and instead make sure that all areas have enough light for their purpose. Depending on the fittings chosen, you could even have one large pendant rather than the two that are shown over the island (between the RSJs); although two smaller fittings would also work, as shown. What will that single, circled fitting light? It generally works best if the light fitting has a specific purpose and is lighting something in particular rather than just a patch of floor. Would it make sense to have it over the island at that point rather than between the island and cabinets? That could also be a track over that part of the island if that is what you like, as long at is is simple enough to work with whatever pendant fittings you choose for the other area. Or it could be a pendant matching the others, even with the different ceiling heights.

we live in the semi detached house and just noticed that the ceiling height of our neighbors loft is at least 15cm higher than ours. Also, our ceiling height seems to be lower than the original architect's plan. any idea what went wrong and would it be possible to fix it? our current ceiling height is a bit short of 2m and 15, even 10cm more would make a big difference.

I am not sure what you're asking here. Has an architect started work on these? They should be able to advise. Standard floor to ceiling height on a new build is usually around 2.4m. Between floors, this allows for plasterboard ceiling, joists and floorboards which will be around 250mm - 300mm depending on what depth of floor joists are needed. The overall height of the build you or the architect asks for will be to the ridge of the roof and this obviously depends upon the size, style and pitch of your roof. To give a lofty feel you can go up to 3m floor to ceiling ...a big stately home mansion tend to start at 3.6m. Even 2.7m will give you a better feeling of space but I would usually look at this to be in proportion with the size and grandeur of the house in general. There are also lots of other interior design tricks you can do - like the use of colour, direction of flooring and wall materials or adding double doors from your hallway into your other rooms, that will also help to make the rooms feel larger and more specious. I hope this helps and that you will keep us up to date with your journey :0) Best, Gina

Hi all. Thanks for the advice. Actually, hopefully a little bit of a win win on this. My contractor is going to lower the ceilings and we should be able to grab an extra 10cm. I’m also living in a loft room at the moment which is around the 2.25 mark, so my new space should be about the same as that in the end, which has never felt cramped at all. I did a little bit of extra research and did find that the average is often only around 2.1 so probably lucky to get it as high as I am. Oddly i think it is a perceptual thing as well. I went round to a friends town house recently and 2.25 on their top floor felt very low - yet the same size in a loft conversion feels perfectly normal