Hi Loula, I would probably start with a geometric rug in grey and white. A shape mirroring that of the chair detailing. This will also still be crisp and contemporary like the rest of the space. Cushions in white will help tie the colours throughout the space rather than just having blocks of it. A large piece of art of work in the same colours on the wall behind the dining table would really work.. maybe a peaceful seascape to add a bit of tranquillity to an area for relaxing. Finish with a few accessories on the table and beside the TV to help bridge the gaps. Grey is a great contemporary colour that will work well with the scheme you have started. You now just need a few more layers to really bring it to life. At the end, as Liz suggested, you could add a single punch of a great colour to add a little warmth - my suggestions would be burnt orange or a deep rich purple. We offer single room design and/or great sourcing packages if you need help further help. Feel free to drop me a message and we can go through it in more detail. Otherwise, I hope this helps and I look forward to seeing the final room! All the best, Gina

Thanks for your suggestion Daisy. I like the look of the Reginox Elba. Someone in RL suggested Pegler. Said its a good brand, and it has a style that matches what I'm looking for: Pegler Rune. It's dual flow - but given how many are dual flow, and how few are single flow - I think I will go for one of these two.

Hi - I think you should paint the wall where the tv and pictures are in a darker shade and definitely add a fire feature. Have you considered getting a larger tv? - I think that would look good. A lighter rug would change the look of the coffee table and if you didn’t want to change it you could always have a glass top made to soften the look. The paintwork would look better an off white -it looks a touch too creamy. If you add a couple of dark cushions that would give you a nice contrast. Hope that has given you some ideas.

Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew