Hi there, yes, a bit of an issue. Was a height specified on a design somewhere, or has the fitter arbitrarily decided on the height? We would normally leave this as an "on site" decision for the fitter to consult the client and agree a height prior to creating/modifying boxing & structure to suit. That should have happened quite early in the build in the case of recessed cabinets. As Sarah correctly indicates, there is no "standard" height and normally there is quite a bit of flexibility, unless you have runs of furniture which include tall units which may set an "upper edge" limit. You don't have this, so now you have a dilemma. While there is no absolute way to determine a "correct" height, as a rough rule of thumb we would get the tallest & shortest adult using the bathroom and measure "floor to eye" height of both, then pick the midpoint between these two heights as the rough centreline for the mirror, then tweak to taste. My gut says yours is slightly higher than optimal, especially given room height. As to what to do - reworking it now is a not insignificant undertaking, as you would need to remove a couple of rows of tiles (to one tile each side of the opening), recut the board, possibly add in some additional noggins, possibly tweak the electrics (if it has been left with insufficient float), then recut and retile the "awkward" bit. Any fitter is going to strenuously resist doing that at this late stage! If he is accurate to drawing, then it would be reasonable for them to expect you to pay for the privilege of such a change. If the design shows the mirror lower, you have a case to tell them to put it right. But expect resistance! If there is no design and you have not been clear that you wish to be involved in setting the height, then you're into a grey "he says, she says" situation, and have to decide how far you want to try and push it. Best of luck!

I can’t see any images but it might be my internet connection as I’m in the middle of the North Sea on route to Norway. At home my vanity unit was bespoke made with a drawer pack each side and 2 full height doors under the basin in the middle. Worktop was sourced by us and then loo was purchased separately. Ask a local carpenter to do it. Easy job.

Like this, but 1m wide! https://www.lussostone.com/vanity-units-c11/volini-vanity-unit-with-stone-basin-polished-cappuccino-800mm-p3482/s4824?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=volini-vanity-unit-with-stone-basin-polished-cappuccino-800mm-vol800pc-729800&utm_campaign=product+listing+ads&cid=GBP&glCurrency=GBP&glCountry=GB&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrYWNtuPw_gIVdoCDBx1YZAC8EAQYASABEgJSLPD_BwE

Hi, It's hard to tell without seeing photos of the tile & vanity unit colours. If you're going for a tonal bathroom look, a vanity unit in a colour close to the wall tiles will stand out the least and create a soothing look. I think you are right in thinking a dark grey unit will be too strong given the presence of anthracite on the window & towel radiator. Would you consider a wood effect vanity unit? They pair beautifully with grey and give the look warmth.