Help with canopy extractor

4 years ago

I've got a built in aga and I'm looking to install a mirrored splashback. Currently there is no "faux ceiling" under the mantle, the wall behind the aga just goes up to the kitchen ceiling. I don't really want to pay quite a bit of money for a mirror only I will see when cooking plus aesthetically I think it would look better with the lower ceiling plus I'd also like a decent extractor. I was therefore looking to install a canopy extractor as there's currently a wall extractor which sits to the right behind the aga. I thought it would just be a simple case of ducting to the existing outside vent but apparently not having just seen an electrician.. As an FYI the vent is in the neighbours garden and the house is listed if a new vent is required as suggested.

i also have downlights over the Aga. Without seeing a hood in person and how effective the lights are, I suspect I would need to bring the existing lights down (I've got under cabinet lighting elsewhere but just 2 ceiling lights). The electrician also said this could be an issue. The canopy would sit roughly 90cm above the hob and they would be IP rated so I can't see the issue or am I missing something?!

i would be grateful if someone could please explain how this could work (or not!). Thanks

Featured Answer

PRO

Brandler London

4 years ago

I too cannot understand why the existing vent cannot be used for your cooker hood. It might be a case of dimension but then from what I can see this looks to be adequate.

What I would suggest is that you measure the size of the duct opening and calculate approximately how long the existing duct run is. With this, and armed with a drawing/photographs, I would then have a chat with the technical department of the cooker hood manufacturer that you prefer.

All of the good manufacturers have technical departments, which are little used by any other than trades people.

As for lighting, you will find that many cooker hoods have incorporated LED fittings which will give you ample light to the surface of your Aga and it is just a case of choosing the hood most suitable.

Best of luck and feel free to contact me directly if you ever need any advice due to strange comments from tradesmen! :-)

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Comments (14)

Victoria
4 years ago
What exactly has electrician said? Can you not have an extractor with lights set in it?
minnie101 thanked Victoria
minnie101
Original Author
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Just that it can't be ducted to the existing vent.

The extractor would have lights however looking at reviews some are naff (if mentioned at all). Given the lack of ceiling lights and the fact the aga is enclosed I don't want to run the risk of just having extractor lights and I can't see to cook
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When replacing an existing kitchen in UK, the current recommendation is that you replace your old extractor with one that’s as good as or better than the previous one . If it’s above the hob it needs to remove a minimum of 30 litres per second if it’s elsewhere in the room it’s a minimum of 60litres per second . There are advantages of having a higher extraction rate than these - ie less moisture in the air - less sticky residue on door fronts and shelves etc! The m3/ph is just another form showing what it does/how efficient etc and can be useful if you want to work out the volume of the room and the air you want to remove etc . Hope that helps ?! It’s basically what your builder suggested - he’s obvs got your back ! Nice to have one on board who’s not trying to help you overspend !!
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Add a charcoal filter to the stainless steel hood to make it recirculating and add a small electric wall fan ( like expelair type ) where you marked the wall - as long as it extracts a min 60lps that should be ok for uk building Regs.
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Victoria
4 years ago
He needs to say more than that! In a new house it wouldn’t meet regs, but you don’t need to. I’d insist on all the details. You could, alternatively just use a carbon filter one?
Kitchen showrooms are good places to look at extractors and lights. Remember you can out better, higher output LED bulbs in them too.
minnie101 thanked Victoria
minnie101
Original Author
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Hi Victoria, TBH, it was part of a long electrical list of you can't do that to the point I've forgotten half of it! All I know is the vent isn't the right size or the place (would need to be filled as it's huge, I don't get that either?!) and a new one put in. It doesn't make sense, not that I know what they are but I am aware rules exist re ducting size, direction etc and from a logical perspective I can appreciate it wouldn't work efficiently at certain angles. He did mention a carbon filter but that's a recirculating one? If so, I am not overly keen given the age of the house and agas (or mine!) can create a huge amount of smoke and grease depending on what's being cooked.

Good point, I could try a showroom to see what the lights are like. I just thought if the lights were heat resistant and sufficiently IP rated it wouldn't be an issue? Most built in ranges are quite a bit lower than mine would be.

All to change a splashback lol!
PRO
User
4 years ago
I think asking an electrician is possibly the wrong person. I'd ask building control, they are usually very helpful and great problem solvers. They also know all the rulings.............they may just have a helpful suggestion.

I don't know all the rules ( especially with regards listed buildings ). However, the vent is existing and I don't know what the electrician can be finding fault with.

If you put in a false ceiling, I don't see why you can't use the existing vent. This canopy for instance goes in to a 6" square vent, yours looks to be around that size.
minnie101 thanked User
Tracey Metcalfe
4 years ago
We installed a carbon filter extractor - recirculating 3 years ago. Dreadful decision. We changed it last year. We now have a Falmec flipper. It’s fantastic. So powerful we now need more ventilation for the wood burning stove as the extractor pulls so much air. Great extractor, but now we need the stove people back to install a permanent airflow directly into the wood burner ..... it never ends.
Ours clearly won’t work for you - but IMHO don’t buy recirculating!
minnie101
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks Hugh. The air outlet for the one I'm looking at is also 15cm (the bigger the better as I understand it) and the current vent is 23cm. THe canopy height would be 90cm and the bottom of the existing vent is 120cm. I'd get flexible ducting, not sure where the outlet is on the back of the extractor but there would obviously be a small incline. I don't understand the issue as many people have to duct up through ceilings and this would have a very short journey?!

Maybe I should just see if I can find any manufacturers instructions for the position of the vent
PRO
User
4 years ago
Yes Minnie101 i'd do that.

One of the electricians that came round to my daughter's house ( when i wasn't available ), told her that he couldn't replace a light switch, as there was no earth strap in the property and it had to be sorted out before they all got electrocuted ! I despair. He was a kid straight out of college and apparently had not yet encountered an older property (60's ) with an earth rod and strap next to the consumer unit, poor wee man. My daughter ( well trained ) , rang me in a panic with the photo that she'd taken of said rod, and asked, isn't this it? Yes, I replied, wait for me, and give him the elbow right away before he causes any real damage.
rinked
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Perhaps look for a ceiling extractor instead of a canopy-unit (to build into the canopy)? These often require less height and the pipe can be placed on the side (left, right, back). Some have only remote control, others have buttons too. But plenty of build-in/undermount units have the option to place the motor max.3m away from the unit (please do regard accessibility though).

A 15cm pipe would be sufficient. If the canopy is wider then the stove, you could add two leds on either side of the extraxtor unit. They could have their own switch, but a good electrician (that works with kitchen appliances often) can hook them on the on-switch of the unit (but then you can only use them with the unit on).

Sidenote: A recirculation unit needs to be installed together with an exteractor fan to remove moist from the home. We use them in modern homes that have ventilation systems.

Just an example: Novy Mini Pure'line
minnie101 thanked rinked
minnie101
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks Hugh, I'm none the wiser after looking at their guide, I will plough through the building regs next!

this guy wasn't young and is highly recommended locally although I did have a somewhat strange unrelated conversation re joists.

i know what you mean though even with my limited building knowledge I have had a couple of bizarre conversations with tradespeople. I then call someone else in and it's all perfectly feasible. Your daughter is lucky to have you to bring some common sense!
minnie101
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks Brandler. You saved me from a gripping read!

i spoke to them who advised, ducting essentially a rulers length at max is no issue at all, if the ducting is x feet then there may be an issue with condensation getting into the motor but in my case a condensation trap is definitely not needed.

she did wish me luck with the electrician though so now to find a new one :)
PRO
Brandler London
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
@ minnie101 - unfortunately, in the UK, finding good electricians and plumbers is as rare as finding hen's teeth! I am glad that I was able to help.
PRO
Morley Stove Company Ltd
3 years ago
We look after London, Essex, Hertfordshire - if you need woodburning Stove advice please get in touch 🔥 (we also have Everhot Range cookers in our showroom)

Help with canopy extractor

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