Helen, Sun tunnels are a great way of getting natural light into a building where a Velux window is not an option. However I would suggest using a Velux window if there is sufficient space. It should be possible to splay the 'cheeks' to the Velux window opening to maximise the light coming in. It will be rather fiddly, which is perhaps why the builder has offered up the sun tunnel as an alternative. Regards, Simon

I’d suggest a long rooflight all along the roof furthest from the doors - to get daylight into the rear part of the room ... hope you don’t mind - but I’ve also had a play with your layout - so you don’t have such a busy route between your hob and your sink ...

I like option 2, but i don't think the shower area and Utility / Coats is going to work. A short projection toilet ( smallest you can get ) sticks out 600mm. You have 1250mm, leaving you with a gap to walk through to get to the shower of around 60cm. You should have a gap either side of the loo of around 30cm and you also have to fit your basin in and have room to get out of the shower and dry yourself. You shouldn't put the toilet by the shower as that takes up the most room and cuts down on your drying area. All of that spaced out with just an 800mm wide shower would take up around 2500mm, depending on the width of basin and toilet. You have a total of about 3150 ( had to guess ) Even if you cut the gaps down a bit to 250mm between everything, you'll take up 2255. Then you add in 100mm for the pocket door, 800mm for coats and another 100mm for the last pocket door. ( Total 3255 ) You could therefore buy a combination vanity unit ( smallest is 900mm wide ), however, the toilet would then stick out by 740mm . You can't push the vanity unit up to the shower because you wouldn't have enough drying room, or room to really walk around the toilet - So i wouldn't use the combi vanity because of the toilet issue. You need a separate short projection one in order to walk past it. Even if you move the vanity away from the shower, the toilet sticks out too far. THERE IS NO PROVISION FOR A TOWEL RADIATOR I would keep the design to this, I put shower 8800mm, Gap to allow for standing in front of shower without banging too much in to basin 250mm, Basin 350mm, gap 300mm, toilet 350mm, gap to door 300mm ( Total 2350mm) I also put in a Towel radiator You could make the Coat room a little bigger by moving the door in line with the right hand wall. Moving the wall allows you to put in an integrated washing machine and tumble dryer. They're less deep than standard machines ( they should just fit with the door opening ( which has to be the smallest door you can buy 24".) By putting the machines in here instead of coats you have a tidy functional area to walk through to the bathroom instead of lots of coats and shoes. Of course you could put all of those in a cupboard and not have them on show, but I think they're better off in the hallway under the stairs as it's a better use of tight space. With regards the living area, i might be inclined to swap the two sides over. If you have the dining area on the right and the sofa where you have the seating area marked, you would have a wall on which to place a T.V ( if you want ). By having it the other way around, the sofa has to face the wall opposite ( which is fine- all down to personal preference. ) I would say however, that for me that central pillar really spoils the whole room, so I would put an RSJ in side to side so that you can get rid of it. You may benefit from a good concept planner, there are many on here. Space is tight and they know all the tricks to make the most out of every inch. It's not easy, and when you know all the products, the depths and widths of what is available it really does help, as I think I've demonstrated. I just come from a building background, but I do have a fair amount of knowledge with regards to products. The concept planners on the other hand take everything to a new level and will get everything perfect. The thing is with tight spaces, that unless you plan for everything to the nth degree as they say, things can go wrong quite quickly.

Hi. This is an interesting design question. I wonder why no one's commented on this. This seems like a lot of roof lights. You'll get good daylight, but the space could over-heat in summer and lose heat in winter through them. First thing I wondered is why you have a full-width skylight(s) just behind the windows at the back. I assumed there's a fully glazed foldable screen and glazed double door to the garden/decking. You are making the original house deeper, so if you want to have the similar daylight level at the back of this space (living /dining/kitchen?), then you'd put full width skylight at the line of original house. The full-width roof light is not used efficiently at the current position unless you want to make the front bright for other reasons (though I don't know which direction is facing south). Having said that, your option 1 or 2 without (or smaller) skylght behind the foldable screen might be good enough. For the 'line of first floor flat above', if it's the position of the wall, then there might be a beam going across to hold it. As there is no column there on the plan, the beam might pass just under your roof light if you don't align them. At roof light manufacturer's web site you'll find standard sizes they produce in their brochure. Some roof lights are for sloped roofs and some are for flat roofs, so you have to choose a suitable product depending on the angle of your roof.