I would slightly disagree with comments above. I'm coming to the end of a renovation project that has taken 3 years from concept to reality. We initially contacted a local building contractor who put us in contact with his recommended architect. We all sat down together and worked out a design/plan and budget for our renovations. If you don't consult a contractor at the beginning you could find the beautiful architects drawings you have - and have planning permission for, are completely unaffordable! I agree at the design stage a contractor will not be able to give you detailed costs - but they can at least advise what design elements would come within your budget. Also we found good reputable builders can be booked up anything up to a year in advance - so yes if you want to start next spring you need to get started with plans/budgets etc. As for moving out - that would depend on the existing and new layout of your house - and if the building work can be done in stages minimising disruption to your living accommodation. With our project we were left with no choice really but to move out. For us it's made for a much less stressful process and probably a considerably quicker build time. Most of all good luck with your project. I've enjoyed our ours so try to enjoy the process!

You've got some tricky dimensions to work with there. So before you go ahead with a design, you may wish to contact one of the Concept planner's on here, who will help you see where to put things, work out the walk room needed around objects and help iron out the flaws before you build. Karen at OnePlan comes highly recommended on here. There are a few points to look out for as I see it. The width that you have left over from Bathroom wall to outside wall of 2887 isn't that long. A bog standard king size bed is usually just over 200cm with the covers and may be more. That wall also, isn't particularly wide, therefore, if you wanted bedside tables, it could be tricky to use that space. So, putting the bed on the back wall, which will probably look nicest has other problems. Easier to show in diagrams ( hopefully ). I can't see how big the nib is at the top where i've put a couple of Chests of Drawers . I know we couldn't manage without them. I feel the large window is too big, and if you're going to put wardrobes on that wall, then you need to make sure the window isn't to large and that you leave a big enough gap either side for not just the wardrobes, but also for any window coverings. You don't want to be pushing curtains in to wardrobe doors and not having enough room for poles. I'd make the bathroom a little smaller to get better walk room in the bedroom. Unfortunately, Architects rarely think about furniture placement, I personally think it's paramount in considering the sizes of walls, windows and how to live in a space. However, i've done many a build in my time, so I know the pitfalls. Concept planners will help you with all of these problems.

Re C: Sorry to throw another idea your way, but there is another way to set out the storage in C. Rather than have the cupboards/wardrobes opposite the bed, you could dedicate the space under the sloping roof to the cupboard/wardrobe. ie there would be a long row of storage running parallel to the bed. (I've had this in one of my houses). To look at the wardrobe doors look square. The pitched room is hidden behind. The advantage is that you can then have sliding doors on the wardrobe, and a long hanging rail. It's only a half height -- so not good for dresses, full length coats - but fine for shirts, skirts, suits etc. This leaves the wall opposite the bed (in orientation C) free for drawers (maybe two sets of drawers - if two people are using the room) and you can display photos/vases/ etc attractively on the surface of the drawers. Maybe put art work/photos above the drawers (which you can look at from the bed), or wall paper the entire wall. So - you get a long row of hanging space (behind neat sliding drawers), you can store stuff behind and below your hanging space (because the eaves go back further), you have plenty of space for proper drawers, and you look at an attractive wall when you walk into the room. (Disadvantage - not much full height hanging space - you could add some but not alot behind the door)

You shouldn’t take the opinion of the estate agent. Firstly consider the head height- unless there is at least 2.4m now then I wouldn’t consider it tall enough (remember that floors get higher and ceilings get lower when you add structural elements and insulation). If the height is only 2.4 at the ridge then a dormer will be necessary to have enough space to stand up in. Dormers add about £15 k to the £35k starting price but they do add useable square footage.