I'll agree with ProSource Memphis, you need to install an engineered wood floor because of the concrete. For our customers that are in your exact situation we offer engineered products, prefinished and unfinished (site sanded/finished), that have 3-5 mm wear layers. Some of these products can withstand 2-4 sandings, which equals way more lifespan than a cheap engineered floor. This equals less cost in the long run, but higher cost up front. Basically the thicker the wear layer, the better chance your engineered floor will last longer (80 years + estimated for 4-5mm), and the more expensive it will be. ProSource is correct, gluing a 3/4" solid floor down can be problematic and not worth the risk. Especially when there are high quality engineered floors that offer essentially the same thing. Engineered is going to be more stable with your fluctuating climate as well. You'll want a hygrometer in the home to monitor relative humidity. It should be somewhere around 30-60% RH for the floor to play nice. There are so many more variables involved in this discussion that entire books can probably be written. But that's my $.02

I think this is a pretty good article as I hadn't considered inspection points before. I normally wouldn't hesitate to have engineered wood in a kitchen however having got a puppy last year and completely underestimating the amount of mud she brings in Everywhere I would opt for vinyl. We don't have wood in our kitchen but solid and engineered elsewhere and I would also consider how slippery the surface can be particularly for a puppy who runs and jumps everywhere. I like LVT but i think they vary hugely even within the same brand as to how realistic they are so would shop around. Personally I also think LVT looks better with the design strips between the plank to mimic wood and I'd also speak to the fitter to see how it's finished around the perimeter of the room. My mum has a nice karndean floor but finished with clear sealant which I really don't like! I assume it's possible to remove the skirting boards and hide the ends of the planks as you would with wood to avoid this though? I think LVT is also a bit better re scratch marks (if you wanted to keep the wood looking pristine) and although it can still fade in the sunlight I don't think it will be anything like wood can fade https://www.woodandbeyond.com/blog/can-you-have-wood-floors-in-kitchens/

Nope… we can't see a picture either but would recommend you start your research by looking at V4 Woodflooring's collection. You can view all V4's products on our e-commerce site by clicking here and you can view their products on V4's own site by clicking here. V4 are UK based, family owned, offer a diverse collection of designs and are sensibly priced. We're cute, we're cuddly… we're the Flooring Gurus! t: 01622 790 356 e: info@flooringmegastore.co.uk Unsure of our credentials? Check out our independent, high scoring Trustpilot reviews here ( https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/flooringmegastore.co.uk ). We currently score 9.4/10

This breaks down the finishes if it helps. The lacquer can also be satin or matt, the latter being the most popular. I’ve had a lacquered floor for 8 years. It hasn't faded but i have caused a couple of scratches (my own fault with a choice of door stop) but is resistant to dog claw scratches although can be quite slippery for them. It probably depends on the price point but make sure you disregard any planks with knots that have been ”filled” as the filler will come out after a few years of repeated hoovering https://www.luxuryflooringandfurnishings.co.uk/engineered-wood-advice-finish