skip to main content

Floorboards help!

last year

Hello!

We are about to refurb and extension. I plan to insulate under original floorboards.

I am then in two minds whether to keep original floorboards and refinish, or add a ply subfloor and new hardwood floor.

I think I prefer the aesthetic of the oak and this would allow us to have the same floor throughout the house and extension. However, I am hesitant to remove original aspects (even though I don’t think these floors were ever designed to be used as a finished floor other than a small border around a carpet square, pretending to be a more expensive wood).

Would be really interested in thoughts and what others have done!

Photo of existing floorboards.

Sort by:Oldest

Comment (1)

PRO
Woodfloors4u
last year
last modified: last year
Hi Murray

Both options can work, if you can prise the original subfloor up without damaging the pine boards then you can put insulation in between the joists and put the boards back down.

Then I would reseal any gaps and oil or lacquer.

Old boards can be prone to snapping due to the age of the boards also length of original nails so take care and take your time.

You are correct about boards around carpet originally, also often shown by old paint marks, if the boards haven't been sanded down.

Alternatively, I find a lot of our clients do opt for new floors but depends on budget. When I purchased my own Edwardian home (1898 built) I sanded the floors and used Treatex hardwax on the floors downstairs. My pine boards upstairs were damaged from being previously lifted so I decided to ply, acoustic underlay and engineered oak above - floating floor.

At Woodfloors4u we specialise in Engineered and Solid oak floors and all of the accessories to finish the project.

A number of Natural oak plank options come to mind, however if you opt for a new floor your welcome to choose the colour of your choice.

Some example options below:

https://woodfloors4u.co.uk/product/natural-oak-brushed-and-oiled-wood-flooring-190-x-3-14-random-length/

https://woodfloors4u.co.uk/product/new-heritage-xl-range-natural-oak-brushed-oiled-engineered-wood-flooring-220-x-4-15-x-2200mm/

https://woodfloors4u.co.uk/product/premium-engineered-natural-oak-flooring-bandsawn-brushed-oiled-220mm-wide-planks/

https://woodfloors4u.co.uk/product/natural-oak-125-x-5-18mm-brushed-and-oiled-wood-flooring/

If you would like to discuss any flooring options, please give us a call on 020 8500 1940/ or email info@woodfloor4u.co.uk
Related Discussions
floorboard help please
Q
Comments (2)
This sounds as though they having been moving and possibly coming loose from their fixings due to age, temperature, damp or wood movement. It's hard to say without seeing a photo. Have a closer inspection to see if it's anything that you can sort out yourself armed with a hammer and some nails or screws and screwdriver. If not, ask a handyman to pop round for a free quote. Good Luck?
...See More
Floorboard colour choice help please
Q
Comments (12)
You don't state if you are planning to keep the existing worktop and tiles. If these are to remain I would consider replacing Welvet with Strong White ( this works really well in a smaller spaces with dark worktops) for the ceilings and woodwork, use the Ammonite on the walls with Oval Room Blue on the cupboards and Worsted on the floor. Or if you prefer a more versatile more neutral approach which allows you to change accent colours without a major rework you could paint the floor using F&B Railings ( or use a similar colour stain to show the wood grain through which would add some interest) and paint the cupboards either Cornforth white or Purbeck stone. I would carry the colour scheme through into the hallway where the coats hang to avoid drawing the eyes to this area.
...See More
Whitewashing floorboards issues...
Q
Comments (11)
I wanted an invisible tough non-yellowing sealant over a thinned white emulsion wash. I used the 2 part Bona ultra matt for heavy traffic in our shop. It has been brilliantly hard wearing and 4 years on it still looks great! Having designed and decorated for nearly 30 years I would highly recommend Bona as it is easy to use and the results are superb. The secret for me is in having an ultra clean dust free floor. It's a bit of a drag but definitely worth the trouble if you need high standard professional results ! Firstly, lightly sand the water-based whitewashed surface with fine paper, wash with water and microfibre cloths and vacuum. leave for an hour or 2 to let any airborne dust settle, vacuum again and apply first thin coat. Leave for an hour or so after it's touch dry, then very lightly sand with fine finishing grade paper and vacuum. Repeat this between each subsequent coat, (usually 3 thin coats) and apply within the time stated on the instructions so that each layer bonds chemically to the one below and doesn''t shear off. It's near impossible to avoid some signs of wear over time in high traffic areas but Bona is excellent. It's not cheap but as they say, you get what you pay for!
...See More
Need help with my floorboards please
Q
Comments (6)
Yes I was thinking to have it stripped but under the black paint there is plain very light sort wood strips my husband bought himself and carved it oh. it hasn't got that antique look.But I agree with you, if the beams were original wood and darker I would definitely do that. Often I was wondering if I had the wood stained oak would it work?I don't want a fake stuck on effect.Someone wrote in a post on an other website that they painted their beams brown and they looked like chocolate logs. Wish I knew how to make the beams look aged and weathered.May I ask what flooring have you got with.the beams?original floorboards?I was thinking to have rustic stone laid down in the living room but the house is already cold and there isn't lots of draught.
...See More

Sponsored

More Discussions

Spotlight positions for bedroom

9

Bathroom configuration

21

Looking to rework loft floorplan

3

How to improve exterior of 60s dormer bungalow

3

Ideal layout for 3 bed Victorian terrace

1