Kitchen ideas

Reply to: If it helps, here is our kitchen with the two styles side-by-side. My husband still thinks we should maybe have done Shaker-style drawers on the inset cabinets on the right, but I think they look okay this way too, and it definitely simplified placement of the bin pulls. (Originally those two large drawers--they're 33" in a 36" wide drawer bank--were going to be four smaller ~16" drawers, but we decided that didn't work as well for what would be stored there, though it might have looked a little better aesthetically.)

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Reply to: I said I'd post an 'after' photo once our sink was complete, so here it is. Not actually cleaned and staged, I just happen to be cutting a watermelon just now and realized it looked happy! In the end I decided not to go with the modified Kohler setup and instead stuck with my 36" Kraus SS farmhouse workstation. We got a touchless faucet to reduce water droplets on the granite, and installed pumps for hand soap, dish soap and lotion so no bottles on the countertop. I ordered the dish drainer and then the dish wand/scrubber drainer from Amazon and they fit and work perfectly. The cutting board and bottom grate came with the sink. Just moved in 2 weeks ago, but we're very happy with the end result, the look and the functionality!

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Reply to: I'm guessing the search engine here is not working for you. So, here are brief responses summarizing the advice often given here. Rules of thumb for cfm: for electric ranges and not-so-high btu standard gas ranges, 100 cfm per lineal foot of stove or cooktop; for higher-powered and pro-style gas ranges and cooktops, add up the max btus for all burners and figure 100 cfm per 1000 btu. You absolutely, unquestionably want a 36" hood for the increased capture area. Standard recommendation here -- 6-inches wider than the stove or cooktop. Getting more BTU than needed can (if you have a speed control) allow for quieter operation. For anything over 400 CFM or in a very tight house, absolutely look into make-up air. The handy acronym is "MUA." If you have gas water heaters or furnaces, this is a safety issue. Most Important consideration after MUA -- hood capture area. Get a canopy-style hood and get the deepest one (front to back) that you can find. That will enhance capture of steam & etc. as much and more than just cfm capacity. If you are just getting the VAH blower and building your own enclosure, follow the same advice. If you can, avoid a flat bottomed designer hood. You want the canopy extending as far over the front burners as you can get it. Skip hoods that are only 18 or 19 inches deep (front to back) IIRC, there are some not-so-expensive canopy hoods that are 22 inches deep. 24 inches would be better. 27 would be better still but those tend to be very expensive if you buy a ready made hood, and many specify ducting with diameters larger than the standard 6" round or 3x10 rectangular that you likely have with your existing hood. The VAH probably specs a 6-inch diameter &/or 3x10 duct. For further searching and a ton of info, check out previous threads by including in your search string the screen name of our resident hood guru, kaseki ---- viz., from google, type "gardenweb + range hood + capacity + design + kaseki"

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Reply to: Search this site using combinations of kaseki, opaone, hood, and MUA. For the commercial requirements description that necessarily informs the residential requirements, read the first dozen of so pages of: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf For @opaone's opus see: https://bamasotan.us/range-exhaust-hood-faq/ The fundamental process is to determine requirements, then find hoods and blowers that meet them. I've repeated the requirements many times. Then there is the MUA "system," which for residential configurations may require some architectural acrobatics to include. Generalizations are less easy for MUA.

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