Great advice !
I too, would be questioning the fitter about this !! It's not really on, is it !! Such a shame - but hopefully disguise-able !

Thanks for the advise....I have not had any wall units fitted though, would that make a difference? Could I use an upstand & pack it out, or would that look stupid? Sorry I am a woman & know nothing!!

Hey, I would suggest that you get it packed with some timber and then fit a trim that will be a contrast to the work top... And make it more of a feature...

Lemacasser is asking about wall units to see if the wall is bare. If so he is proposing that it is overboarded.....suggest you don't get the same person who fitted the kitchen to do it as the goal is to align the wall with the back of the worktop

Cheers y'all! I will have a chat with my dad & try sort something out :-)

I'm also questioning the fitters ability to fi I. Line with the wall or pack out the wall where necessary??
I'm not sure how the units above line up and the previous comments are also helpful, as an alternative if you have any lengths of the same wood or can still get hold of a match, you could cut a piece to fit the gap like a wedge and it could be glue in place, make sure the top part isn't over glue so it doesn't squeeze out on top, someone who is handy and with a bit of patience should be able to do it easily enough, if it is cut to fit well it should just wedge in with a tap of a soft hammer and a block of wood, this should then just look like the wood is thicker at the end of the wall, it is a cheaper alternative and you could try it out first, if it doesn't work well or look good enough then you could go for the above suggested alternative of having the wall built out, I'm just not sure how that will look with above units, the best bet would be to have them taken down, have the wall done from worktop to ceiling and then refit the units after.
If I was in this situation I would be seriously complaining to the company used for fitting and insist they sort it out, I would request their best fitter is sent and refuse to have the other fitter back under any circumstances as his work has been substandard.
Most reputable companies will want to sort it out and fix the problem, if they are awkward you could threaten them with going to watchdog.
I hope this was helpful.
Kind regards
Barbara

Thanks, I couldn't afford a proper kitchen fitter, I used an electrician who fitted my floor, plastered my walls, sorted my electric & fitted my kitchen, for a very good price, its a small, very old house where the kitchen & living area are as one. it was partly my fault as I had no clue what to do with my back wall, ie tiles splashbacks etc, so I told him I would sort it myself. As I said earlier there are no wall units fitted...I didnt want, or need any fitted, I wanted a couple of shelves instead, which again I said I would sort. We did think of the wedge thing, but all the off cuts have been outside in the rain! Thanks again for your comments :-) p.s. for what I spent on the work, the guy did a fantastic job...its just that tiny bit thats niggling me!

Don't panic Sarah, it can certainly be sorted it's just a pain that you have to! The fact that you don't have upper units installed makes it a bigger job as you would need to take the pasterboard all the way up to the ceiling rather than just up to the underside of the upper units. I'm not sure the style of your home but another thought might be to install a shelf along the whole length of the wall in question say around three feet above your work surface. You could then plasterboard up to the bottom of the shelf which would hide the transition and save going right up to the ceiling. I have a similar shelf arrangement which is tiled below and its quite useful for putting either decorative objects on or frequently used cooking stuff like jars of pasta, nice olive oil bottles etc.

Thanks all of you, you've all been extremely helpful! X

If the front edge of Worktop runs in line (equally) with the draw fronts the back wall is out .
The fitter should have set units flush to back wall and offset the butt and scribe to allow for walls not being square .one very easy method is to use a splash back and plant a bead on the front edge to increase the thickness .the bead is best fitted to splash back so it doesn't drop behind just like your spoons !
If you plasterboard and skim please cover the worktops with plastic sheets and then cardboard so it doesn't ruin Worktop finish .

Hi Sarah,
If money is a bit tight you could do as I suggested earlier to fill the gap with a wedge of wood and run a piece of beading across the top in the corner, you may prefer to do this after you have fitted a splash back it would make the corner look finished off up to the wall, you could get something wide enough to maybe hide the join between the wedge of wood and the back of the unit depending on the rest of the width available along the back and length of the run of course, it's definitely worth checking out beading and architraves, there are lots of different curves and widths to choose from you might find something that can be fitted on top that will just hide the gap anyway, and it could be painted stained varnished or oiled to match, this is probably your cheapest option.
Or the other suggestion of building the wall out with plasterboard or Mdf if it's cheaper fixed to a framework that levels the wall out, that shouldn't be to expensive either.
I hope that was helpful, good luck.
Barbara.

Oh sweetie are you sure it's all to building standards proof