New kitchen work surfaces
11 years ago
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Comments (6)
- 11 years ago
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What kind of new units/work surface will work with early 60s kitchen?
Comments (8)Just wanted to say what a fantastic kitchen. So pleased you're keeping it! Formica would be the period correct work surface and can still be bought but may not fit with your budget? I would also look at having a carpenter produce your cabinets. They can be cheaper than off the shelf and would be better build. To save some money you could buy cheap plain carcasses and have a carpenter make doors to match the existing ones that you can then paint. That's what i'd do!...See MoreHatch in kitchen work surface - design ideas sought
Comments (2)Thank you. Looks great! Huge amount of money, though. We will make something along these lines ourselves, I think....See MoreWhy do Crown Kitchens leave a gap between back board and work surface?
Comments (2)It is easier and more cost affective to produce a board that's shorter to allow ventilation than to produce a board the correct size - then re cut a circular hole - then buy and fit a vent ( that may fall out at some point). Crown have been going for years and do so because they supply a great product at the right price ... To change this one thing would increase overheads and make them a more expensive product . If you really dislike the look - you could perhaps add an L shape strip that's fixed to underside of worktop and sits forward of the gap - so air can still flow - but you don't see the gap from the front, into each cupboard. i think that's one way you will keep the airflow, but avoid seeing the view behind the cabinets that you dislike. Hope that helps ?...See MoreConcrete kitchen floor and work surface
Comments (2)Conscious Forms is a small London based concrete specialist design and make studio established in 2004 by Concrete Artisan Junior Phipps. Junior and his team of master craftsmen collaborate with private clients; architects and designers to create bespoke cast in-situ, seamless polished concrete furniture and surfaces. Sealing and Maintenance With in-situ cast concrete there are 2 main types of surface seal, 1. Topical seal, a bit like a varnish on top of the concrete surface, a non-breathable finish. Advantage of the topical seal is that it is less prone to staining due to the acrylic or polyurethane barrier. Disadvantage of the topical seal is if you puncture the surface moisture/water can get underneath leaving white bubbly pockets resulting in the delaminating of the topical seal. Topical seals will also add a slight discolouration as the topical seal ages. Also vulnerable to acids like red wine, vinegar, lemon juice which may etch the seal leaving a slightly 'milky' patch, if not wiped up soon after spillage. 2. impregnating seal which soaks into the surface to seal the concrete top layers but allows concrete to breathe. If the concrete gets wet this type of seal allows the concrete to dry out naturally. Disadvantage of the impregnating seal is it is more vulnerable to acids like red wine, vinegar, lemon juice which may etch the surface leaving a slightly dull unsealed patch. Impregnating seal very slightly alters the final colour of the concrete finish. At Conscious Forms we recommend that Lithofin Cream Polish and/or Lithofin Easy Care be regularly applied to the worktop after being sealed with an impregnating sealer like Lithofin MN Stainstop or Lithofin MN Stainstop Plus. Concrete worktop should be cleaned with a damp cloth only or with mild soapy water (no bleach or aggressive chemicals, chlorine based cleaners are fine). Do not cut or place hot pans directly on the surface or you may damage the seal. The sealant is effective against most dirt and grease but acidic spillage’s and liquids will have to be wiped up as soon as possible to prevent staining. Stains can be reduced and removed and we can advise on this. Contact us to discuss the surface repair treatment or resurfacing of your polished concrete worktop. Best regards Junior...See More- 11 years ago
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Trisha Riley