I concur with Karen @ OnePlan - You really need a professional on the case - ( not me, one that specialises in this specific area ) The table and chairs up by the door on the left at the top will not fit. An average round table is 110-120cm across and the gap is only 140 x 98 - You don't really have room for the table yet alone adding chairs in. I realised whilst allegedly sleeping that I'd made an error on the depth of the recess by the far door - it would not be 630mm it would be 870cm ( the alcoves being 27cm not mm ) As that would be a nice deep recess, i'd consider re-homing said cookbooks to shelving in that area above a tea making station with the kettle, toaster etc. Just as a suggestion - if you're really keen to keep the dresser:- Maybe it could be 'amended' by a carpenter to fit the 140 gap toward the far end? Then you're not sacrificing space needed by keeping it.

I think shortening the lounge is a great idea. Could the new kitchen door go through the cupboard in the hall next to the shower room? This would make the new wall nicely balanced with the window in the new dining room. If you want help with visualisations, I offer 10 hours of design work for £250 which gives you a full design and the confidence to proceed with any supplier of your choice. If you want to have a no obligation chat to bounce some ideas around, feel free to get in touch 😊 Emily x

Thank you all for the advice and suggestions so far. I've incorporated lots into an updated plan attached. This one is pencil to show more measurements. Things I've changed based on your feedback are: 1) Moving hob to other end of island to keep cooking area all in the same space. 2) Binned the American fridge in favour of separate integrated fridge and freezer 3) Centred the sink into the middle of the base units 4) Put a dish drainer above the sink to keep countertop free (seen on other discussions) 5) Moved island seating to opposite end to view garden. This is going to be our house for the next 15 years or more so think this would bother me if it wasn't. 6) Widened the island to 1200mm and shortened it to 2700mm. Doing this and moving the island 100mm closer to the side wall gives around 1200mm clearance to the 'chunk' structural wall that can't move. I love the idea of a tall cupboard being a breakfast cupboard as @pjdklm suggests to house, cereals, bread, toaster maybe even microwave. 600mm is probably too small so I could reduce the sink or base units by 200mm to make an 800mm cupboard between the fridge and freezer. Does this sound better? The sink run then would be 3000mm which matches the rooflights. @rinked and @Jonathan thanks for your suggestions and I like the simplicity of the latest design form rinked. However I'm not bothered about distance to washing machines from upstairs as if I'm using the back door, the first thing I'm doing is putting the kettle on. I also want to have the large back room and so don't need as much room for the study or hallway from front door. I take your points about the rooflight above the dining table but with pendants above the island, I'm not sure if I want anything else hanging down from the ceiling. Plus I guess we can always use candles and lamps etc and then we can look up at the night sky. We also have an east facing garden, so have great morning sunshine but if the rooflights were as close to the first floor (as in rinked's designs) they would be in shade by about 1 or 2pm.

I prefer the island option. im not sure what you want/need to include but it appears (by eye) to give the greatest amount of space. I’d reduce the island to 900mm and give the extra space between the units. You could have the plumbed appliances on the island and seating like this with a 300mm overhang for the stools. This kitchen is longer than yours but i think a tad wider assuming the tiles are 600. The island could be a lighter colour than the other units making it feel a but wider