USB sockets seem like a great idea, until you have them and realise that most smart devices require more "umph" through it's plug/own adapters rather than the weedy trickle out of the USB socket and you end up never using the USB's. It's worth noting that there is nothing special about the wiring to these, so can be swapped once you have been using the space and know where you need them. Interesting spots for ethernet, I would have through they would dominate the TV area more than anything, to get the TV, game consoles etc off the wireless network, reduce the load, leaving laptops and tablets with more freedom and reliable connection rather than be tethered by cables at designated points. Thats an awful lot of sockets for a larder!... youre having worktops in there instead of full shelving?, I cant imagine wanting to use a worktop in such a small space when theres a lovely amount of it in the kitchen.

If it were me firstly I would have one switch for task lighting- I think your planned 4 spots in the island boxing is enough but would have them in a row. I would have an additional 4 in a row in the ceiling above the walkway between the island and the main run of kitchen cabinets plus an additional two behind the sofa (but put a softer bulb in these). I would have two in the ceiling above the sink as I think it is tidier than having a wall light. Don’t forget to put a few in the laundry cupboard too. Since your extension ceiling is sloped I would have inset spots that you can angle. Personally I think that when you use the desk you switch on a desk light. I would have a ring of 3amp sockets so that you can switch on two table lights in the sitting area and two standard lamps in the dining area (or two table lights on a console table) and the LEDs above the bookcases. In my opinion you specify more than you need as you don’t have to plug something into every socket but the flexibility is useful. Personally I don’t think you need the coving light in the sitting area and think the idea is odd in an area with sloping ceilings. Next I would have additional kitchen lighting - I would have a run of LEDs under the base cabinets near the plinth and around the base of the island- these are nice to have on at night when watching TV as the kitchen is not fully lit but is light enough to navigate. Additionally I would have lights above and below the wall cabinets. I also like your idea of the boxing above the island having a shadow gap to conceal further LED strip lighting. Pendant lights- I agree that you won’t want one in the sitting area. I think it is messy to have pendants over the island with the additional boxing. I would have one over the dining table and choose an oversized fixture later- ensure that this lighting flex is near somewhere strong enough to mount a ceiling light of some size. Additionally I would have walk over lights in the floor near the garden doors. Remember these will reduce the focus of the garden at night- you might prefer to put these on the outside of the door to reverse the effect. Don’t forget to specify at least one socket behind the cabinets/ under island should any of the kitchen cabinets include lighting- this is especially useful in pantry cabinets. Don’t forget that you will likely need additional sockets in the laundry cupboard as you might well have a charger in there for a vacuum or drill. Personally I would have extra sockets around the desk and contain the router, you home answer phone, etc etc all in the same place. Don’t forget you can also get sockets that include a USB charger inlet. Since you are doing a plan for electrics don’t forget tv/ satellite aerial points. You should also take this opportunity to consider outside lights and power- consider sockets outside for garden lights, outdoor heaters, awnings, water features, mowing the lawn etc. LEDs unless you like decorating in very dark colours choose warm white lighting- a lot of strip LEDs can be adjusted to color match other lights in the room. LEDs- Last time I sourced these I was disappointed with the quoted costs from the electrician- do your own research online about price. Pay attention to the lumen levels and consider if you want disable LEDs. Boxing over the island. Choose your extractor before specifying the size of the boxing- I think the shallower extractors are deeper than the 20cm you stated.

Personally I think you have too many spotlights and I think the lights planned for the beams should be on the same switch. I would have six ceiling spots around the kitchen and then have directional spotlights on the beams and angle them up so the light reflects off the ceiling. I would then have three pendants over the island as I think clusters of three have more impact than just two. I would have a big pendant over the dining table and I would move the island and table to make this possible. As well as under cabinet lights I would have plinth level lights. Separately I think if you are sat on the sofa or at the desk an overhead light is uncomfortable and I would have an anglepoise on the desk instead. So you need four light switches and I would have all except your under cabinet lights on a dimmer.

Inset ceiling down-lights in a grid pattern on a dimmer throughout the entire area will give you maximum flexibility for furniture placement as well as a good level of light for working / cleaning. i don’t know what the extent of your wall shelves will be but LED strips on their underside will assist with lighting the worktops. Floor / table lamps at the sitting / dining end and the pendants over your island would give good ‘layering of light’ for ambience. Make sure each lighting style is on a separate circuit and is dimmable..