Hi Guy, Internal solid wall insulation usually involves fitting ready-made rolls or boards of insulating material over the inside walls of your house. This can be disruptive - You may need to relocate, radiators and fitted furniture as well as a slight reduction in floor space owing to the extra thickness of insulated walls. . Your walls will need to be carefully prepared before internal wall insulation can be fitted. Any damaged plaster needs to be either repaired or removed, and bare brickwork should be treated to eliminate areas where air can escape. We would also suggest painting on a waterproof paint on the wall so no water penetrates past the brick. Hope this helps? For more tips and advice check out our blog. We love sharing our expertise as we build lofts, extensions, bathrooms, and kitchens all the time :). Opun - your home improvement experts

I know this post was a few years ago but just wanted to add my experience to the posts. My wardrobes are not actually on the wall, I suppose about 2 inches away from the outside wall and that wall is not damp. The wardrobes are floor to ceiling from IKEA (chipboard oak veneer) and so have airflow all around them. My clothes have had mould spots on them over the years and shoes soles have rotted. When I first noticed these incidents I bought things to soak up any moisture in the wardrobe but that got monotonous and didn't work 100per cent. Eventually we have drilled holes in the backs and bases of the wardrobes. I think this has helped to some extent but only time will tell. I think it could be what the wardrobes are made of as it has only happened since I have had this style. Also, something that seems to have made my ceiling/top of the wall black or damp along the top of my bedroom wall (similar to Zat's pic above) is that we had a ground floor disabled extension for my son over 10 years ago and it has a flat roof that I look out onto from my bedroom. Building Control or Surveyor when visiting the extension project at that time, told the builders to put these plastic oblong sheets all along the wall and above new extension roof as there's a gap between the wall and roof. In so doing, I think it has prevented airflow through the bricks that have those little gaps intermittently along the wall of the front of the house. This has been the question mark over the decade as to why we get these black marks at the top of the wall. I have 4 windows in that room also and always have them open for airflow and ventilation. I use a dehumidifier in there in the winter when it may be too cold to open all windows. My husband used the anti mould paint last year when he decorated our bedroom and painted over that. Six months later it was coming through again. Another issue I think that might contribute to all this. When we bought the house from new in 1983 off plan it was Timber framed. It was a lovely well insulated house, In 1990 we extended our bedroom and lounge. We couldn't find any builders in those days that knew about Timber framed extensions and so they just did their normal style work with brick. Nowadays we are more informed with all the programmes on TV and advice on computers and in hindsight we would have looked for a builder that did Timber framed. I have regretted it ever since really. The 1991 extension is the colder part of the house unfortunately and feels too cold in winter that I have a heater on the end walls of the lounge and bedroom. The disabled extension had better building regs to make sure the rooms didn't go below a certain temperature and they are fine. If I could have my house gutted I think I would have extra insulation fitted, underfloor heating and maybe other things that would once again make it a nice cosy home in the winter. But that is not going to happen! Hope this may be helpful to anyone for future use. All the best.

Now decided to two storey extension. Majority 1st floor extension over existing ground extension. The rest is brand new double storey extension. Having spoken to architect, it looks that it's common to have an en suite in the new bedroom 3, given it will be much larger. However, my other half strongly dislikes ensuite in bedrooms, due to concerns on privacy, smell, noise and damp. So now considering to add a shower room in bedroom 4 (dressing room). It will be a long and narrow room. For the moment, thinking about keeping dressing room on near end and shower room at the far end. Our concern on damp is still here. Would add extra windows much improve? Thanks Thanks

Whatever tile you choose, do not install the small upstand - it is not needed if you are tiling the wall and it will make the wall appear even shorter. Make sure your worktop installer knows you don't want the upstand as you are tiling and therefore needs to do a good job and not leave a big gap at the back of the worktop - tile should cover whatever small gap might be left.