Induction hobs
Gemma
6 years ago
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Comments (10)
Daisy England
6 years agoTailored Living
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Dual fuel hob or Gas+induction hob
Comments (4)Hi Anastassia, Yes it is perfectly fine to combine a gas hob with an induction. If you search Domino hobs you'll find some, Neff and Miele do some nice ones. Also it's fine to cut two hole for the hobs in your quartz, though there should be about 60mm minimum of stone between. You can with some models get joining/connecting strips, so therefore just cutting one hole, depending on the look you want. Hope that helps :))...See MoreGas v induction hob
Comments (19)Induction is definitely the way forward, its like cooking on gas as its so responsive unlike the old electric halogen and ceramic hobs which were really slow, so no need to change the way you currently cook. They're easy to keep clean and many have some really clever features. If you do a lot of wok cooking you can get induction hobs which also include a gas wok ring if you think you may miss the high heat around the sides of a wok. Or if you're just looking to replace a 4 ring 600 wide gas hob and you usually have 2 rings on at any time then you can get induction hobs that have a 13amp plug so you don't need to update your electrics as you can use the socket your gas hob was plugged into (for the ignitor, if on a sfs check its 13amp fuse), they have 'clever' electronics inside to switch the current between rings if you have all the rings on at any time. As they work on magnetic fields they heat the pan base and if you take the pan off to stir, there is still heat in the pan and that means there is very little residual heat in the hob itself so it cools down really quickly unlike old electric hobs. Many expensive hobs also have a 'free' set of pans included but most new pans are now induction suitable, old pans can easily be checked with a fridge magnet. Some of the more expensive hobs also have features like bridging were 2 rings join together for larger pans like fish pans, zone cooking where the hob senses the size/shape of the pan and only 'heats' that part of the hob. Some models can even 'talk' to (matching overhead) extractors so if you change the heat settings on the hob, the extractor speed also adjusts and some models even have the extractor built into them. If any of my customers are undecided about induction I don't hesitate in recommending it over any other type of hob, but I always point out that if anyone has a pace maker or insulin pump then they aren't suitable as the induction may affect these and to check with the manufacturer before purchase....See MoreHelp - venting induction hobs
Comments (14)A recent kitchen I supplied, the customer purchased an Elica (Nikola Tesla about 1400.00) and the kitchen fitter was so impressed with it he bought one for his own new kitchen. Always best to duct out and the bigger the pipework (ie 6 inch) the better and the least amount of bends means the less resistance, the more efficient it works and the least noise. So a 2.5m run shouldn't be a problem if done properly. If you fit only 4 inch pipework then its not going to work as well and be noisy. Extraction is governed by building regs Part F which covers new builds, extensions and conversions, for an existing kitchen re fit you can't make the extraction worse than the original kitchen. The difference between combi/bridge and flex for hobs is that 2 zones can be combined, for bridging its just both zones on but with flex induction it has more heating zones and the hob senses the shape/size of the pans and just works in those zones. Venting hobs are like icebergs, very little on show but you can lose 2 drawers underneath to fit it all approx 200mm+ needed (including worktop thickness), then you have the ducting to fit down the back even for recirculating to vent at floor level. All ducted hobs only have 1 filter which is the grease filter and this is suitable for a dishwasher (haven't come across a disposable grease filter for years and then they were a paper filter for integrated extractors), for recirculating you need a carbon filter to clean the air, some of these can be 'recharged' by putting in an oven, others need replacing with a new filter, the manufacturers operating instructions will advise....See MoreInduction hob in kitchen possible with the electrics I have in there?
Comments (23)@Owen Train You said in your original post that you have 2x standard plug sockets in the island so i assumed you want to use those, without looking at your electrics i 'assume' that these are on a ring already from the fuseboard and has 2.5mm cable, so you could use these with the appliances that i'd stated. For a 'hard wired' induction hob these are more powerful and needs a minimum of 6mm cable coming from its own dedicated 32amp breaker/fuse in the fuseboard and this would suit a 7.5kwatt hob. Most single ovens run at about 3kwatts so these can be plugged (there is a rating plate in the oven somewhere), the induction hobs that come with plugs fitted also run at about 3kwatts and so can be plugged. Now if your existing sockets on the island will need to be moved/broken into altered in any way (you can change face plates but thats about all) this then comes under Part P of building regs as kitchens are considered high risk areas (and i've seen plenty of dodgy wiring in them to agree) and the work needs to be carried out by a 'competant' person (certified part p electrician) who can then test and inspect the work done as a minor works and notify building control so the work is recorded. If you want to run a new supply from your fuseboard that also comes under Part P but is considered major works which may mean a lot more testing of all your house electrics. The electrician is also responsible for Part F compliance which covers extraction and ventilation and by removing a ducted extractor in an existing kitchen you are making the ventilation worse, so thats why you need something like a bathroom fan but it should be at least 60 litres/sec as its not over the hob. Your existing appliances you say are connected to junction boxes under the sink (I assume you mean just a junction box and not a switch spur or anything) and are on the 'kitchen ring' now these should have a means of isolation (ie a switch or just a fuse) looking at your photo you have a couple of switches to the right of your hob, these look like switch fuse spurs and i imagine either one controls the oven and the other controls the ignitor for the hob, or one does the oven and hob and the other is the extractor, both are fine, so the junction boxes are fused down and fed from the switch fused spurs. As your kitchen is only a few years old, part P has been about for a long time now so you should have an electrical report for the previous work, dig that out, have look on line at various hobs you like and get the details (ie how many watts or kilowatts required) and get 3 electricians to quote you for the works that you want doing, and then decide if its worth doing, also don't forget you'll also get another bill from your gas man for disconnecting and capping off you gas hob to factor in....See MoreJonathan
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