I can give you the opinion on clearance reduction as most US codes and testing agencies see it. http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_24_sec007.htm The short story is that a 1" air gap is required behind the heat shield, and something more substantial than foil. TABLE G2409.2 (308.2) REDUCTION OF CLEARANCES WITH SPECIFIED FORMS OF PROTECTION Should give you a good idea of what "should" be an acceptable means of reducing clearance. Think of it as a double boiler system. If you put a pan directly on the heat, you can burn things very easily. But, if you put one pan inside another with boiling water, then it keeps things from getting too hot.

Hi Mrs Lanks, I have specified a lot of kitchens so have a reasonable understanding of the pro's and con's. 1 Don't go for this, the paint "will" chip off. Also, the undercoat applied by your decorator will not grip as well and it will be a thicker coat which can cause your doors to bind. 2 This is my prefered option if you're going for a traditional look. If the factory applies a spray "matt" undercoat they get into all the nooks and crannies and this will provide a stable surface for the hand painting to grip to. I would recommend a Farrow & Ball or Little Green paint as these are based on English heritage colours. Don't allow your decorator to mix to the colour, buy the real thing. You will have to accept that a hand-painted finish is more delicate and it will need re doing over time but it has the advantage that touching up is easy and repainting at a later date can give you a fresh look. Greys are very in at the moment but this will look dated in a few years so having the option to repaint adds longevity to your purchase. 3 Painting in the factory is more durable. The issue is that it can look a bit flat but if you want a more contemporary look, that's a good thing. It looks dead if you want a more traditional look. A spay finish will definitely last longer but if it does chip it does not repair as easily. Hope that helps, Martin www.angel-martin.com

LED strips for low level cupboard/island plinths have their merits in showcasing themselves, however aren't necessary if the space already houses good lighting from overhead lights or natural lighting. However, using under cabinet lighting underneath wall units works particularly well when the main lighting isn't required and the occupants wish to have a dimmer atmosphere. They can also serve the purpose of providing necessary light for worktops when being used for cooking etc. www.pwjarchitects.com

Well as you can imagine, work stopped a few weeks ago. I've managed to get some supplies delivered so I'm doing the DIY bits. I'm currently boarding out the dining room ceiling to slightly lower it and to install downlights. The wiring and boarding should be done well before my builder us allowed back. Then I have to source the kitchen all over again!