Hi NYC, I have seen this problem before. Is the floor on joists or is it a solid concrete floor? If it's on joists you may have a real problem as it sounds as if the joists are bouncing under the weight. This is a very large island therefore very heavy. If the island is on joists and these are moving you need to underpin the floor by adding steel underneath or building up brick piers under the joists to stop the flexing. I would suggest you address this urgently. I would advise you to have a structural engineer look at it. If it's on concrete this shouldn't be such an issue (Hope you're on concrete) Assuming concrete there should not be any movement on the floor so the issue is with the flooring material. Check to see if it has been laid tight to the walls if so the flooring material will expand with any changes in temperature or moisture absorbed from the concrete. The floor should be laid with a gap between it and the wall then the skirting boards fitted over the top to cover the expansion gap. This way the floor can expand and contract without creaking or buckling. Hope that helps, Martin www.ange-martin.com

Tbh, I would focus on light, orientation, location (is 1 plot better than the other in terms of parking, outlook etc?) and garden as to what your personal preference is. The house layouts are extremely similar, you can’t change the location or orientation but you can change the kitchen. Have you been given actual kitchen plans? The kitchen feels a little undersized for the house in terms of any tall housing for FF, ovens, larder etc. Assuming the kitchen is 4m max and the sink run has to stay if my maths is correct you could only have a max 150cm island. This could work better than the peninsula though, not keen on where they’ve taken it around the corner. Would there be any flexibility to move the utility sink and recess appliances in the utility wall? That said it’s only my opinion that it’s lacking in space for any tall units! It would be interesting to know if they’ve worked with a designer that you could speak to

Hi! Thank you for all your suggestions so far 😊 I don't mind dark, but I was fearful that black tiles would make it too dark, and make the kitchen feel smaller. If tiling to the ceiling is what I will have to do if I get black tiles, I will find some lighter ones where I can cut down cost and only tile halfway. I was looking at tiles similar to what Minnie suggested too, as well as some others that are white/cream/off white with a 'dirty' effect or textured, then use a dark grey/black grouting (possibly). I also liked these tiles. I thought even though they are white, the gold/amber colour running through the tiles would tie in with the gold marble effect on the worktop - but it may also be too much gold running through things. Also quite expensive so would try to find something similar but cheaper 😂 I'm not against just painting and putting up a glass splashback, but I would feel I'd have to do this behind the sink too? My washing machine is 'integrated' (free standing but hidden behind a door and a kickboard) at the moment and it drives me insane! I'm constantly worrying that my socks or other wares are going to drop in the gap between the kickboard and the machine and I'm going to have to fish it out from the spiders lair! A black washing machine is a good compromise and is something I can work towards. I don't have to do it source it from the kitchen designers nor do I have to get it immediately

Based on your comments and kitchen style (period-inspired shaker), practical concerns (cold underfoot, large space), and the tile veto, the winner here is clearly Engineered Wood. Some pros and cons are listed below: Tiles: Your dream is noted, but they're out due to spousal veto (the "Spanish" comment is classic lol!). LVT/LVP (Luxury Vinyl Tile/Plank): This is a very strong runner-up. It's practical, warm underfoot, and can look amazing. However, in a 1920s/30s property (even an extension), engineered wood has an authenticity and warmth that LVP can struggle to replicate perfectly. It can sometimes feel a bit "commercial" or modern. Solid Wood: Can be prone to movement, especially with underfloor heating or significant temperature changes from those French doors. Laminate: Generally not on par with the quality of the rest of your spec. I think engineered would be the best compromise based on: Warmth & Comfort: Much warmer underfoot than tile and has a natural, soft feel. Authenticity: It provides the period-appropriate look you're after for your shaker kitchen. A wide plank, character-grade engineered wood will feel right at home. Stability: Its layered construction makes it more stable than solid wood, ideal for a kitchen environment and over potential underfloor heating. Durability: A good quality, thick wear layer can be sanded and refinished several times over its life, making it a long-term investment. At Woodfloors4u we specialise in Engineered and Solid Wood floors. We also stock LVT dry back and click, and laminates. If you would like to discuss the project feel free to give the team a shout on 020 8500 1940 or via our webiste where you can also order samples free of charge www.woodfloors4u.co.uk