The layout of your new kitchen will depend on a number of factors, not least where the waste water from your sink, dishwasher and any other appliance that uses water, enters the drainage system. Moving any of these is not normally a problem but you may be restricted as to where certain appliances need to be positioned in the kitchen because of where the drains are. The usual method of planning a kitchen is to design the layout making sure you keep the distance between the key elements to a minimum. Having the food preparation area close to the sink, cooker and fridge will ensure you don't wear yourself out, running from one side of the room to the other. Without seeing the size and current layout of your kitchen, it is impossible to make any further, useful, suggestions. Choose your kitchen fitting company vary carefully and don't be shy in asking lots of questions, if they are any good, they should answer all your questions in detail. Hope this helps.

Kitchen design looks great! I'm pretty sure we can offer some expertise on Lighting for your consideration. Firstly totally agree with you partner that a grid of recessed light looks a tad boring. If you do opt for recessed a more modern and practical way to use them would be to use them in a row against your high cabinets, just in front of them. This will not only show off your featured cabinets but also bring some much needed light to the ovens and in cupboards. I'd urge that you do have lights above the peninsular. Take your point that you don't want to block out the view or features but smaller pendants in a row are good, https://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/original-btc-fin-natural-white-bone-china-pendant-with-braided-flex-p11330 maybe glass so they are not to heavy and solid looking. https://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/the-lighting-collection-empire-ceiling-pendant-with-antique-brass-suspension-and-clear-glass-shade-p10433 If you looked at the website? You may notice we are running a sale just over Easter weekend, if timing is right for your project, it could be a good time to bag a bargain! If not sign up for the newsletters as we'll let you know when there's promotions or discounts available. Also you will get a FREE quarterly magazine sent to you inbox. This is the copy of the latest https://issuu.com/lighting-uk/docs/into_the_light_spring_2017/1?ff=true&e=8047055/45589588 You'll find lots of inspiration in here. If you just fancy chatting it through you project with one of our experts, we have a chat function on the website LightingCompany.co.uk which is really simple to use or email sales@lightingcompany.co.uk As far as positioning task lights should go above tables countertops etc. If you have recessed place them just in front of you tall cabinets groups of 3 or 5 in a straight row. If you can switch different circuits separately, if you can't use dimmer switches where possible. Stick to a common theme between you lights e.g.: same colour metal or similar style but they do not need to be all the same. In a larger open plan area different lighting help things look interesting and zone the area's. Above you table you'll need a light but if the light hangs in front of the TV that will not be so good, reflections will drive you crazy. You didn't mention ceiling height but we do have lights for the tallest and shortest ceilings. Do speak to us, we do so much that may interest you, we have thousands of options and can even make lights in your choice of colour, maybe to match the colour of your kitchen? What an exciting project and a chance to be creative with you lighting, you are doing the right thing thinking about alternative to a grid of spotlights. Did this help or not really? Good Luck with it all and remember we are happy to help. Contact us.

Hi! Good luck with your new home purchase! These floor plans could definitely be improved on. I recently did a facebook live giving 3 tips for assessing your floor plan to check if it's any good or not. You will find this helpful and you can watch it here: https://www.facebook.com/iarchitectUK/videos/327990864662386/ Questions that could help you decide your ground floor plan arrangements: 1. Do you want the kitchen to be in the middle of the house or would you prefer it to be closer to the garden to get more natural light and ventilation? 2. Do you need direct access from your utility room to the garden? Do you go out often to hang laundry out to air dry? Do you keep your recycling in the utility and need to take it out to bins regularly? 3. Do you want the space to be more open plan or broken plan or flexible (with large doors that slide or open between spaces so you can open them up or close them down)? 4. Where do you want direct access or views of the garden? 5. What will you do in the darker parts of the house - in the middle of the floor plan (where the kitchen is now)? (hint - watching or working at a screen can be better in these spaces because there's reduced glare) 6. How many kitchen units do you want? 7. Do you have a preferred kitchen arrangement and why do you prefer it? (for example, gallery style, U shaped, L shaped, with an island, with a peninsula, etc...) For the first floor the stairs and landing are very confused. Things to think about for the 1st floor: 1. Where are the drainage and water supply pipes running? 2. Can all the floors be lifted to the same level and the stairs simplified / altered / reduced? 3. How many bedrooms do you need? How many of these need an ensuite? How big do they need to be - for double or single beds, how much wardrobe space, with space for kids to study / makeup station or dressing table, etc...? I also have a free checklist with support emails to help with getting your project off to a good start and making the right decisions for you. You can get a copy from my website: www.i-architect.co.uk Hope this is all helpful! Jane :)

I think plan2 looks/works best but i'd suggest a few changes. For the tower run, having only a 20mm filler is to tight and doors open more than 90 degrees so they'll be rubbing at the freezer end, i'd suggest changing the 600 and 800 larders to a 1200 breakfast style larder, having drawers and worktop inside, shelved above and power for toaster etc, the doors can be pocket style so they open then slide down the sides out of the way when in use, make the wall nib a bit wider by about 100mm so you have 50-70mm fillers at each end, probably bring the towers forward (or make them extra deep) and this would allow for the pocket doors to slide away more. Depending on ceiling height you could have extra tall towers or top boxes on top and then infill about 50-100mm up to the ceiling. Also check the height of the appliances as in the pics it looks to high, i'd have a 450 frontal with pan drawer and internal drawer instead. On the opposite wall as long as all the 800 drawer units end past the window is good, window sill same as worktop possibly, (either end the run before or after the window) lose the 400 open unit in front of the wall nib and have a door (door could be made to look like 2 drawer fronts to match) on this as it will be just a dust trap, in the 1000 drawer units i'd suggest having internal drawers for utensils etc, the corner unit is good especially with the fly moon pull out as they're great (in my opinion) and as the corner post is made on site its gives the fitter more flexibility in positioning the units as its not a fixed corner. The sink run is fine but i wouldn't suggest opening a d/washer door to let the steam out as it can damage the surrounding doors, cabinets, decor panels and even worktops (thread on mumsnet where steam has damaged granite worktops). For the island if a 500 bin is big enough then fine but you might find a 600 pull out is better as its usually a 4 bin unit, possibly change the 1000 1+2 so its a 2 pan with internal drawer and then on the other side i'd have 2x 800 which would look more symetrical. For wall units its up to you, but if its an electric hob (especially induction) the extractor should be wider than the hob and if this area is going to be a main prep area than having wall units you can add extra lighting.