Stairs to loft conversion on a 1930's semi
Comments (11)
Melody
4 years agoThanks Jules,
That’s what we are thinking to do. My only worry is that we won’t have much space left even for an open office space.
I found these photos online which is also from a 1930s semi and I love how it works but Ithjnk I won’t have much space left between the window and beginning of the stairs...
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Making our 1930s semi work for our family
Comments (27)Ah, I didn't realise the stairs comes up in line with the bathroom wall so yeah, you can't move the bathroom wall out really as there won't be enough head space walking down the stairs. I think your only option is to either live with the small bathroom - or extend out over your GF extension (if that is even possible - depends on your extended roof and also the footings as they might not be deep enough to take the weight of a 2 storey extension). The cost of a loft conversion is hefty and especially if you don't have decent head height in there as you will end up with a tiny room in the middle (I'm guessing??). Our loft is original (bungalow) and was always a room but it cost us £20k just to re-tile, reboard/plaster/insulate and put an en-suite in! An extra £6k if we pushed out the hip (which we didn't end up doing). Dormers are possible to gain headspace but it's the overall roof height that is the issue. Sometimes you could lower your floor level to gain head height but for the cost involved, you really would be better moving....See MoreAdvice needed for our loft conversion!
Comments (14)You've got some tricky dimensions to work with there. So before you go ahead with a design, you may wish to contact one of the Concept planner's on here, who will help you see where to put things, work out the walk room needed around objects and help iron out the flaws before you build. Karen at OnePlan comes highly recommended on here. There are a few points to look out for as I see it. The width that you have left over from Bathroom wall to outside wall of 2887 isn't that long. A bog standard king size bed is usually just over 200cm with the covers and may be more. That wall also, isn't particularly wide, therefore, if you wanted bedside tables, it could be tricky to use that space. So, putting the bed on the back wall, which will probably look nicest has other problems. Easier to show in diagrams ( hopefully ). I can't see how big the nib is at the top where i've put a couple of Chests of Drawers . I know we couldn't manage without them. I feel the large window is too big, and if you're going to put wardrobes on that wall, then you need to make sure the window isn't to large and that you leave a big enough gap either side for not just the wardrobes, but also for any window coverings. You don't want to be pushing curtains in to wardrobe doors and not having enough room for poles. I'd make the bathroom a little smaller to get better walk room in the bedroom. Unfortunately, Architects rarely think about furniture placement, I personally think it's paramount in considering the sizes of walls, windows and how to live in a space. However, i've done many a build in my time, so I know the pitfalls. Concept planners will help you with all of these problems....See MoreLoft Conversion Layout (Hip to Gable 1930s house)
Comments (8)We looked at it briefly - I think you need to get the head height for the shower and it really depends on the apex of your roof. I don't think ours was steep enough for it to work without eating into the bedroom space more than we would have liked....See MoreNo hallway in 1930s semi- do we have options?
Comments (3)I’m in a 30s terrace and the houses in my road are all the same square footage but with differing layouts. Mine is like yours, open the front, tiny lobby and stairs. My neighbour, on the other hand is on the end of the row which means she has side access (so jealous!), a wider hall leading to the kitchen and the living is smaller than mine. So if I’m gaging this right, you could push out the wall leading to the living room to give you a bigger hall. Wall is probably load bearing but that can be overcome with a steel. You can then add a post and railings to the stairs and rebuild the wall further back. Then create a doorway into your kitchen. Obviously you will need a good builder to do this for you. You could have a hall like this maybe?...See More
Jules Mc
4 years agoYes that's what I was tho long would be a possibility for you Melody. I suppose you're already thinking about a curve to the stairs to take up as little room as possible aren't you? Like the ones below.
PROUser
4 years ago
PROOnePlan
4 years ago
PRO- PRO
User
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoHi
You would not need to get rid of the box room, our advice is to check if you would have 2m height clearance and if you do than no need to get rid of the box or open up the space and have it open. Usually prefered option is to keep the box room and have the stairs separate as long there is minimum 2 meters clearance in height from your first step upwards. This can be achieved with a smart design and stairs would not feel steep either. If the light is an issue why not fit a velux or skylight right above the new staircase? it will allow a lot of natural light in the hallway. To go an extra mile you could recess the loft landing by say 15cm too to make the first floor areas more open this will give an illusion of open and not compact space and finally if you are a fan of glass balustrade and how it can maximise compact or any space and allow more natural light have a look at the images. Hopefully we have provided you with some ideas.
Wish you All the best from Nuhous.co.uk
sophiebbarr
3 years agoMelody
3 years ago
Ellen Chamberlain
3 years agoEllen Chamberlain
3 years ago
Jules Mc