https://glampinghub.com/spain/andalucia/gaucn/riverside-retreat-southern-spain/ The link above features Moroccan style yurts in Spain. There are Moroccan style yurt photos all over the internet. I live in Washington state, and people use them as a cottage, and in some cases as a home(not my style). Your comment to Emmeline was rude.

So funny! I'm planning to paint the bannister at the new house (TNH) black and am veering towards painting the treads and risers black too... I've been searching for images of black staircases on Houzz and putting them in my entrance hall ideabook. They are few and far between. In your case, I think, with your white walls, maybe the stairs white and the bannister black? (Assuming the white walls continue up the stair walls enabling the b/w contrast.) You've already put black firmly into the equation, adding some more may give more reason for the black rad cab. In my case, there is a very off-centre radiator that could so very easily have been directly opposite the front door in TNH which is rather annoying as it stuffs up the focal point. We are leaving here with every radiator covered with a cabinet - and going to TNH that has loads of radiators ...but no cabinets! Yes, the work ahead is daunting - especially since the area of Ireland we're going to is very basic and not full of DIY resources, etc. I keep thinking I'll paint TNH white - to make things simpler(!) But try as I may colour keeps wandering through my mind! Lovely to be in touch again!

Hi Julie. I'd suggest that if your planning and building consultant are unable to answer this question then they may not be the right consultants to deliver your project adequately for you. Ask the consultants you have employed already to start with and if they don't know and can't get someone else who is more specialised involved, then you might be better off seeking an alternative building consultant. You could take a look at the Green Register for their list of eco-refurbishers, who will be more able to help you. You can go with a retrofit suspended timber ground floor insulation and underfloor heating system for what you have described. It's a bit fiddly but doable. There are several retrofit product versions on the market. It depends on how responsive you want the heating to work as to which system you go with. This is likely to be determined by how much time you spend at home. If you want to heat the house up quickly in the morning before you go to work and then quickly in the evening for a few hours once you return home from work then you may prefer a more responsive system than if you work from home, or spend more time at home, perhaps with young children, etc. You could replace the whole ground floor with a ground bearing slab of concrete over insulation with wet system underfloor heating, or you can use a limecrete with foamed glass - look at Ty-Mawr for this, these options will give you a higher thermal mass. This type of underfloor heating works most efficiently if kept on most of the time with a relatively low temperature. The thermal mass of the concrete/limecrete gives a time lag for heating and cooling. There are many ways to insulate suspended timber ground floors, depending on many variables. There are also many different insulation types. There is a move away from the petrochemical based insulations like celotex for people like myself who recognise that a "breathable" build-up with vapour permeable properties gives a healthier indoor environment and protects the building fabric more. So although celotex type insulations have relatively high thermal efficiency with a relatively low thickness of material, its impermeability can create other problems if used in the some situations. Retrofit insulation with underfloor wet-system heating to suspended timber floors is generally more responsive but not quite as efficient, as there is no thermal mass, so it acts like a large radiator. You can use a "pipe in pug" system to suspended timber floors, which gives some thermal mass and can be a reasonable compromise option. However, the "pug", which is a dry sand and cement mix that slowly hardens over time with atmospheric water, will add weight to the timbers so you are best to get the strength checked by a structural engineer to make sure they can take the extra weight. Its a slightly complicated technical problem and to give you the solution that works best in your case then you would need to have someone take a look at it who can assess both your building and how you want the heating to work. Hope this helps.

Radiators are combined by the heating circuit if you will. If you have knocked through, this will have created one large space and as such your BTU requirements will need to be met for that space. You're most welcome. Last thing you want to do is revamp your home and find yourself freezing cold. Hopefully I've prevented that from happening and pointed you in the right direction.