Renovating
How to Care for Encaustic Cement Tiles
Keep your patterned cement tiles in perfect condition with these expert tips on laying, protecting and caring for them
Whether you’ve inherited a floor or wall of beautiful encaustic cement tiles or are planning to use some new or reclaimed ones in your renovation project, you might be wondering how best to look after them. Here, three tile experts share their top tips on how to take care of encaustic cement tiles so they look their best for years to come.
Expert advice from: Christopher Brooke of Maitland & Poate; Rebecca Leathlean of Alhambra Tiles; Steve Harvey of London Encaustic
Expert advice from: Christopher Brooke of Maitland & Poate; Rebecca Leathlean of Alhambra Tiles; Steve Harvey of London Encaustic
Start by laying them correctly
If you’re about to install some new tiles in your property, Christopher Brooke at Maitland & Poate says, “It’s obvious – but key – to get a professional who understands tiles and especially cement tiles.” Rebecca Leathlean of Alhambra Tiles agrees and recommends you look for a local tiler on The Tile Association’s website.
Brooke adds, “The tiles must be laid on a solid base that doesn’t move to avoid them shifting, cracking or popping up.” Leathlean agrees. “You should prepare a perfectly level surface in concrete or self-levelling screed or cement, 20mm below the line of the intended floor height,” she says. “Then you must wait until the floor is completely dry before placing the tiles.”
Steve Harvey of London Encaustic advises that tiles should be kept clean and free of any dirty water during installation, “as the water can stain the tiles and leave unsightly marks. Make sure the tiles are kept free of adhesive on the top while they’re being fixed, as the moisture from the adhesive can also stain the tiles. Keep them clean by wiping them with fresh water as you work.”
If you’re about to install some new tiles in your property, Christopher Brooke at Maitland & Poate says, “It’s obvious – but key – to get a professional who understands tiles and especially cement tiles.” Rebecca Leathlean of Alhambra Tiles agrees and recommends you look for a local tiler on The Tile Association’s website.
Brooke adds, “The tiles must be laid on a solid base that doesn’t move to avoid them shifting, cracking or popping up.” Leathlean agrees. “You should prepare a perfectly level surface in concrete or self-levelling screed or cement, 20mm below the line of the intended floor height,” she says. “Then you must wait until the floor is completely dry before placing the tiles.”
Steve Harvey of London Encaustic advises that tiles should be kept clean and free of any dirty water during installation, “as the water can stain the tiles and leave unsightly marks. Make sure the tiles are kept free of adhesive on the top while they’re being fixed, as the moisture from the adhesive can also stain the tiles. Keep them clean by wiping them with fresh water as you work.”
Give them some protection
“All cement tiles are microporous, which means they can absorb moisture and dirt, similar to a lot of natural stone,” says Brooke. “They must always be sealed and, for most areas, we recommend at least two coats.
“Sealing should be done before grouting to avoid the dyes in the grout being absorbed into and discolouring your tiles,” he adds.
Leathlean says it’s important to ensure the floor is perfectly dry before you seal encaustic tiles. “Tiles need to breathe after being laid to allow any moisture to evaporate. If a newly tiled floor is protected too soon, humidity will get trapped and damp spots may appear. Sealants will not protect a damp floor.”
Harvey agrees and says, “We recommend waiting at least 12 hours before sealing to allow any moisture to dry out from the adhesive.”
“The sealant should be applied in thin layers until the floor is covered,” says Leathlean. “Any excess left on the surface after 15 minutes should be wiped off to ensure an even finish.”
Whichever type of sealer you use, Brooke advises, “With new encaustic tiles, you must be even more meticulous than with reclaimed cement tiles.”
Find more inspiration for kitchen tiles on Houzz
“All cement tiles are microporous, which means they can absorb moisture and dirt, similar to a lot of natural stone,” says Brooke. “They must always be sealed and, for most areas, we recommend at least two coats.
“Sealing should be done before grouting to avoid the dyes in the grout being absorbed into and discolouring your tiles,” he adds.
Leathlean says it’s important to ensure the floor is perfectly dry before you seal encaustic tiles. “Tiles need to breathe after being laid to allow any moisture to evaporate. If a newly tiled floor is protected too soon, humidity will get trapped and damp spots may appear. Sealants will not protect a damp floor.”
Harvey agrees and says, “We recommend waiting at least 12 hours before sealing to allow any moisture to dry out from the adhesive.”
“The sealant should be applied in thin layers until the floor is covered,” says Leathlean. “Any excess left on the surface after 15 minutes should be wiped off to ensure an even finish.”
Whichever type of sealer you use, Brooke advises, “With new encaustic tiles, you must be even more meticulous than with reclaimed cement tiles.”
Find more inspiration for kitchen tiles on Houzz
Be gentle when cleaning
When thinking about how to clean encaustic cement tiles, make sure you use gentle products. “Various manufacturers supply specialist cleaners for encaustic tiles. It’s important to use a product that’s neutral so as not to damage them,” Brooke says.
Leathlean agrees. “Scrubbing with pH-neutral soap and then waxing is the traditional and most common protection for cement floors.”
Leathlean also recommends specialist soaps that contain wax, and says “use a glassful diluted in a bucket of clean water to both clean and wax to restore the shine. Never use bleach, acidic or alkaline products, including strong detergents,” she warns, “as these will damage the tiles.”
Harvey reiterates the importance of using non-acidic and non-abrasive soap. “Soapy water with a mop is fine,” he says. “Clean the tiles as often as required. Busy floor areas will need more cleaning than walls, but if they’re sealed correctly, then a mop-over will be fine.”
“It’s also worth applying another layer of sealant every two or three years, which is quick to do,” Brooke adds.
But don’t rely on a sealant to prevent stains. “Sealants don’t hold off spills indefinitely,” Leathlean says, “so these should be wiped up as soon as possible to prevent staining.”
When thinking about how to clean encaustic cement tiles, make sure you use gentle products. “Various manufacturers supply specialist cleaners for encaustic tiles. It’s important to use a product that’s neutral so as not to damage them,” Brooke says.
Leathlean agrees. “Scrubbing with pH-neutral soap and then waxing is the traditional and most common protection for cement floors.”
Leathlean also recommends specialist soaps that contain wax, and says “use a glassful diluted in a bucket of clean water to both clean and wax to restore the shine. Never use bleach, acidic or alkaline products, including strong detergents,” she warns, “as these will damage the tiles.”
Harvey reiterates the importance of using non-acidic and non-abrasive soap. “Soapy water with a mop is fine,” he says. “Clean the tiles as often as required. Busy floor areas will need more cleaning than walls, but if they’re sealed correctly, then a mop-over will be fine.”
“It’s also worth applying another layer of sealant every two or three years, which is quick to do,” Brooke adds.
But don’t rely on a sealant to prevent stains. “Sealants don’t hold off spills indefinitely,” Leathlean says, “so these should be wiped up as soon as possible to prevent staining.”
Remove stains carefully
Our experts reassure us it’s possible to remove stains from encaustic tiles as long as you use specialist products. Some of these products are quite strong, however, so don’t just dive in. “You should try a test area first and leave it for a while to make sure everything’s fine,” Leathlean says.
Brooke adds, “If a stain is really bad, it can be sanded out of the tile. The natural pigments used to colour encaustic tiles run almost 9mm deep – sometimes more with old tiles – so if you don’t mind some dust, you can give them a big sand with machines, if and when they become really dirty.”
“It’s possible to strip back the sealer using a mild acid solution and hard brush,” says Harvey. “Then gently sand down the surface of the tile with a fine sanding pad. Make sure you tackle stains as quickly as possible as they could seep through.”
Our experts reassure us it’s possible to remove stains from encaustic tiles as long as you use specialist products. Some of these products are quite strong, however, so don’t just dive in. “You should try a test area first and leave it for a while to make sure everything’s fine,” Leathlean says.
Brooke adds, “If a stain is really bad, it can be sanded out of the tile. The natural pigments used to colour encaustic tiles run almost 9mm deep – sometimes more with old tiles – so if you don’t mind some dust, you can give them a big sand with machines, if and when they become really dirty.”
“It’s possible to strip back the sealer using a mild acid solution and hard brush,” says Harvey. “Then gently sand down the surface of the tile with a fine sanding pad. Make sure you tackle stains as quickly as possible as they could seep through.”
Take care with tiles outside
If you fancy a patio full of beautiful patterned tiles, there are a few things to consider. “Whether or not you use encaustic cement tiles outside may depend on how rustic a finish you’re after,” Leathlean says.
It will also depend on the climate you live in and how exposed they are. “If you want to keep a glossy, perfect finish,” she adds, “we don’t generally recommend them for outdoor use in exposed areas in cold countries.” She does, however, say they can work in a sheltered spot and for those who live in a warmer climate and like a mellowed look – as long as they’re protected first.
“When working outside with the tiles, the key thing to remember is that you don’t want moisture to enter the tile,” Brooke says. “Creating an airtight base and sides, so moisture can’t enter from the bottom or side of the tile, is key. The tiles can also be sealed all over prior to laying, which will help protect them from moisture. I would add an extra coat of sealant for outdoor encaustic tiles.”
Leathlean adds, “You should ensure tiles are laid on a completely waterproof concrete screed, on a gradient sufficient to drain water. The tiles must also be laid with a double spread of adhesive to prevent pockets of water from forming beneath, and the adhesive must be suitable for outdoor use.”
She recommends waxing the tiles regularly, and also adds a top tip: “Do not place encaustic tiles under an oak tree, as the leaves contain tannin, which will stain the tiles, even once sealed.”
Discover ideas for using patterned tiles outside
If you fancy a patio full of beautiful patterned tiles, there are a few things to consider. “Whether or not you use encaustic cement tiles outside may depend on how rustic a finish you’re after,” Leathlean says.
It will also depend on the climate you live in and how exposed they are. “If you want to keep a glossy, perfect finish,” she adds, “we don’t generally recommend them for outdoor use in exposed areas in cold countries.” She does, however, say they can work in a sheltered spot and for those who live in a warmer climate and like a mellowed look – as long as they’re protected first.
“When working outside with the tiles, the key thing to remember is that you don’t want moisture to enter the tile,” Brooke says. “Creating an airtight base and sides, so moisture can’t enter from the bottom or side of the tile, is key. The tiles can also be sealed all over prior to laying, which will help protect them from moisture. I would add an extra coat of sealant for outdoor encaustic tiles.”
Leathlean adds, “You should ensure tiles are laid on a completely waterproof concrete screed, on a gradient sufficient to drain water. The tiles must also be laid with a double spread of adhesive to prevent pockets of water from forming beneath, and the adhesive must be suitable for outdoor use.”
She recommends waxing the tiles regularly, and also adds a top tip: “Do not place encaustic tiles under an oak tree, as the leaves contain tannin, which will stain the tiles, even once sealed.”
Discover ideas for using patterned tiles outside
Don’t be afraid they’ll get chipped
Chips and cracks shouldn’t be a problem, according to our experts. Leathlean says, “If encaustic cement tiles are laid on a perfectly flat surface, they won’t crack.” Brooke agrees, “You’re unlikely to get big cracks and chips unless you drop something very heavy on them!”
However, if your tiles do crack, Leathlean reassures, “The colour goes to at least 5mm deep into each encaustic tile, which means it shouldn’t be affected.” Harvey agrees and says that, after sanding, you should “seal where the crack is to avoid any further stains”.
For really severe cracks, Brooke says, “If you’re working with a reclaimed floor, you can remove and fix the tile and then replace it. A new tile may be needed if it’s unsalvageable and on a new floor.”
Tell us…
What are your experiences of caring for patterned cement tiles? Share your advice and thoughts in the Comments section.
Chips and cracks shouldn’t be a problem, according to our experts. Leathlean says, “If encaustic cement tiles are laid on a perfectly flat surface, they won’t crack.” Brooke agrees, “You’re unlikely to get big cracks and chips unless you drop something very heavy on them!”
However, if your tiles do crack, Leathlean reassures, “The colour goes to at least 5mm deep into each encaustic tile, which means it shouldn’t be affected.” Harvey agrees and says that, after sanding, you should “seal where the crack is to avoid any further stains”.
For really severe cracks, Brooke says, “If you’re working with a reclaimed floor, you can remove and fix the tile and then replace it. A new tile may be needed if it’s unsalvageable and on a new floor.”
Tell us…
What are your experiences of caring for patterned cement tiles? Share your advice and thoughts in the Comments section.
Before you start, it’s important to establish what your tiles are actually made of. The original encaustic tiles were made of clay, not cement. The dyes were sealed by firing the tile in a kiln, hence the term ‘encaustic’, which refers to the process of burning in colours.
In the 1850s, however, cement versions of these beautifully designed tiles started to become popular. The tiles were made by mixing mineral pigments with cement in a mould, then using a hydraulic press to compact it all together. There was no firing involved, but as they looked so similar to the original ceramic versions, the name ‘encaustic’ was widely accepted. Here, I’m focusing on the cement versions.
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