Basic kitchen extractor fan- silly or thrifty?
shamylakhan
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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shamylakhan
8 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (58)Hi Lee, No problem : ) With the LED tape, it depends upon how happy you are with soldering : / The tape can be cut at set marked places. It is then possible to solder wires on at these points and then extend the tape. Personally, in your case, I wouldn't cut the tape yet but wait until the integrated dishwasher arrives. Depending upon the model of the dishwasher, it may be possible to fit the aluminium extrusion to the underside of the units and run it past the dishwasher without the door catching. If this isn't possible, you may need to cut the tape and use a joint to fit the extrusion to the plinth under the dishwasher. If you use a slightly deeper extrusion, you can mount the extrusion onto the plinth under the dishwasher by putting the double sided tape onto the side of the extrusion. I think that I probably need to do you a drawing of this to show you what I mean! Do you know which model of integrated dishwasher you're going to fit? Can you remind me where in the country you're based? With the projectors, I've heard of Benq but haven't seen either of the models in the flesh. Are you going to be using a screen with them or just beaming onto a wall? With a screen, the brightness of the projector isn't as important as the screens have a higher 'gain' than a white painted wall - meaning more of the light is reflected back to you. You will also need some way of blackening the room out as this will improve the image quite a bit. We have a projector at home after getting rid of the TV. We found that it totally changed our viewing and gaming habits. The lounge is now dark purple (with the white room we had before, the reflections off the side walls were quite noticeable) and we have thick curtains over the window. You won't regret gaming on a projector : ) We use ours mainly for Skyrim : ) Projectors don't hold their value very well, (we bought ours used), but there should still be bargains to be had with new ones. If you can't get to see one in the flesh, then try to find one that's reviewed well and buy from a shop that will either let you demo the unit or has a good returns policy. We have a JVC X-7 which we are very pleased with. For a surround sound system, do you want the speakers too or just the processor? It may be easier to go through this on the phone. My numbers on my profile : ) Thanks Peter...See MoreTop of my stairs leaves a square on my kitchen ceiling.looks silly..
Comments (20)Entirely depends on the stairs and what's under there. We live in a really old cottage and have a dog leg staircase with a half landing like that, which is also in the kitchen. On the edge of ours is a supporting wall for the landing. ( I'm a little intrigued as to what's holding yours up. ) Here' it is when i was renovating last year. I think, that if you ever decide to have a new kitchen, then i'd work with the space as it is, completely change the layout and design so that you work with it instead of against it, & build it in to the design. For now, i'd just go with what's been suggested above....See MoreAdvice on kitchen lighting
Comments (23)Smart bulbs are definitely worth looking at. I use Hive (which I initially got to control my boiler but expanded into other things). You’ll need a hub, but you can control lighting schemes really well, including when you’re not home. There are a lot of choices out there and, so far, I’ve used ES27, bayonet and GU10s. I have basic dimmable, tuneable (which go from warm white to bright cool white, and colour change). To further make use of the system, I’ve used movement and door sensors to turn lights on and off automatically and plugs to operate other devices. All these things enhance security and make it more comfortable for my dogs - nervous chihuahuas - in the winter if I’m not home before dark. I’ve also had LED fittings which claim to last thousands of hours but have had to replace them in less than 2 years. Fine if they’re the cheaper end of the scale, but I wouldn’t spend any more than £25 based on my experience....See MoreInduction hob in kitchen possible with the electrics I have in there?
Comments (23)@Owen Train You said in your original post that you have 2x standard plug sockets in the island so i assumed you want to use those, without looking at your electrics i 'assume' that these are on a ring already from the fuseboard and has 2.5mm cable, so you could use these with the appliances that i'd stated. For a 'hard wired' induction hob these are more powerful and needs a minimum of 6mm cable coming from its own dedicated 32amp breaker/fuse in the fuseboard and this would suit a 7.5kwatt hob. Most single ovens run at about 3kwatts so these can be plugged (there is a rating plate in the oven somewhere), the induction hobs that come with plugs fitted also run at about 3kwatts and so can be plugged. Now if your existing sockets on the island will need to be moved/broken into altered in any way (you can change face plates but thats about all) this then comes under Part P of building regs as kitchens are considered high risk areas (and i've seen plenty of dodgy wiring in them to agree) and the work needs to be carried out by a 'competant' person (certified part p electrician) who can then test and inspect the work done as a minor works and notify building control so the work is recorded. If you want to run a new supply from your fuseboard that also comes under Part P but is considered major works which may mean a lot more testing of all your house electrics. The electrician is also responsible for Part F compliance which covers extraction and ventilation and by removing a ducted extractor in an existing kitchen you are making the ventilation worse, so thats why you need something like a bathroom fan but it should be at least 60 litres/sec as its not over the hob. Your existing appliances you say are connected to junction boxes under the sink (I assume you mean just a junction box and not a switch spur or anything) and are on the 'kitchen ring' now these should have a means of isolation (ie a switch or just a fuse) looking at your photo you have a couple of switches to the right of your hob, these look like switch fuse spurs and i imagine either one controls the oven and the other controls the ignitor for the hob, or one does the oven and hob and the other is the extractor, both are fine, so the junction boxes are fused down and fed from the switch fused spurs. As your kitchen is only a few years old, part P has been about for a long time now so you should have an electrical report for the previous work, dig that out, have look on line at various hobs you like and get the details (ie how many watts or kilowatts required) and get 3 electricians to quote you for the works that you want doing, and then decide if its worth doing, also don't forget you'll also get another bill from your gas man for disconnecting and capping off you gas hob to factor in....See More
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