Mantle or hood?
8 years ago
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Comments (19)
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Aga's clearance question !?!
Comments (54)I can give you the opinion on clearance reduction as most US codes and testing agencies see it. http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_24_sec007.htm The short story is that a 1" air gap is required behind the heat shield, and something more substantial than foil. TABLE G2409.2 (308.2) REDUCTION OF CLEARANCES WITH SPECIFIED FORMS OF PROTECTION Should give you a good idea of what "should" be an acceptable means of reducing clearance. Think of it as a double boiler system. If you put a pan directly on the heat, you can burn things very easily. But, if you put one pan inside another with boiling water, then it keeps things from getting too hot....See MoreWhat do do with this fireplace?
Comments (37)Looking at it, I think it's a mishmash of periods. the mantelpiece and overmantle is characteristic of a late victorian/edwardian style. We are more used to seeing these with vertical side panels of decorative ceramic tiles and a cast iron firebasket raised off the floorlevel. the actual ceramic glazed fire you have in there appears possibly to be anywhere between 20s & 50s, probably a replacement because the original burned out (assuming it's in the main living room it will have been a main source of heat for the house). So the question is, what do you love and what do you hate about it? Because it's not working for you right now. Usually edwardian fireplaces with an overmantel (and edwardian/victorian furniture in general) comes apart into sections. the tricky bit is finding which sections! But I'd imagine the entire overmantel with the mirror could be taken off leaving the mantelpiece intact, albeit with peg holes that would need filling on the top of the mantel at the back. Usually there were wooden pegs and holes for placement. If you are on a very tight budget, and assuming you don't want to keep the rather lurid carpet, simply keeping what is there, and adding a fender would work (as someone suggested above). You can get low level ones in brass that are extendable to fit relatively cheaply, or there's vintage ones that range from low level right up to having padded seats. If you intend to actually USE the fire, then it may be possible to pull up the 20th century ceramic tiles (if that's what they are) lay a screed underneath and then relay the tiles a bit higher so they are proud of the floor level. If any are broken it might be possible to relay them at the edges where they are less in the way - but at the end of the day, open fires are messy and what you really need is a slab of clean smooth hearthstone to make it easy to keep clean. Alternatively if you don't like early 20th century mashups, then you could (carefully) take out the fireplace, sell it on (someone would love it - personally I don't like the murkiness of that sort of fireplace ceramic colourwise, but I do recognise it's a nice and unusual example of the genre) and buy a replica more suited to the surround. You can get some rather nice ceramic edwardian style tiles for the sides. Have you tried to light the fire? it may be the hood is necessary if the chimney doesn't draw well. Or it could just be an aesthetic choice a previous owner made without considereing how the fire actually performs. As people have said above, you can paint it. Whatever paint you use, make sure you aren't totally knackering the wood underneath in case you want to have it stripped back to wood in future. The suggestion of hanging a picture over the oval mirror is a good one. Though I suspect with a different less instituttional carpet and the fitted cupboard gone, a judicious choice of plants or ornaments might make the whole thing recede into the room as a whole and be less 'in your face' at the end of the day, it's actually a time and labour intensive decorative heat source, so if you aren't going to have an open fire, and it's not a listed building, consider selling it and getting rid completely. It's a mishmash anyway that doesn't work so well aesthetically, though individually the separate parts of edwardian/ mid 20th century do have charm. but together? ouch you are living with some dearly departed's poor design choices! Which I suspect are not going to be so easy to marry together. Though as people have said above, painting it white is going to help a lot! My final thought is that you've got off lightly with that overmantel with a plain oval glass! When I was a kid we had an edwardian house near manchester, in what was the day nursery, behind a baize door, on teh first floor, had an overmantle with a plaster of paris insert that weighs 25kg with rather terrifying fairies playing in the moonlight as it's subject. The house was due to be demolished so we took the plaster behemoth with us. It's currently hanging in my hall and scaring all small children that pass by!!! 40 years on I still can't decide if it is actually totally hideous or so ugly that it's beautiful. Mostly though I just don't want it to fall off the wall and kill one of the cats! Here it is in all it's fugliness. Framed in the 1980s in somewhat ungracious proportions to just top off the general weirdness of it!...See MoreAre Mantles easy to clean?
Comments (4)Consider a downdraft extractor (you can still have the mantle for looks). A downdraft extractor is better at capturing rising smells and grease as the fan is closer to the cooking height. They are also quieter. Furthermore the newest Bora is very easy to get to the filter, remove it and put it in the dishwasher and it is compact so could go in regularly if you want...See MoreHelp with canopy extractor
Comments (14)Perhaps look for a ceiling extractor instead of a canopy-unit (to build into the canopy)? These often require less height and the pipe can be placed on the side (left, right, back). Some have only remote control, others have buttons too. But plenty of build-in/undermount units have the option to place the motor max.3m away from the unit (please do regard accessibility though). A 15cm pipe would be sufficient. If the canopy is wider then the stove, you could add two leds on either side of the extraxtor unit. They could have their own switch, but a good electrician (that works with kitchen appliances often) can hook them on the on-switch of the unit (but then you can only use them with the unit on). Sidenote: A recirculation unit needs to be installed together with an exteractor fan to remove moist from the home. We use them in modern homes that have ventilation systems. Just an example: Novy Mini Pure'line...See More- 8 years ago
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Debbie Clark