Hi George. When we removed our carpets I loved the colour of the concrete floor underneath (a kind of warm grey) and we searched for grey tiles the same. The buff topps ones were the only ones that were a similar colour, but we had to choose between those and the matt porcelain. The matt porcelain ones we chose were much more expensive and do look good but the Topps ones looked a bit like poured polished concrete and were really unusual. Hard to choose really. This not very good photo shows the matt ones we have and underneath the sculpt tiles we were going to have.

Your kitchen is stunning colourhappy!

Thank you Jen P. We were on such a tight budget, but good old ikea helped us through. The two most useful things we did was build the slate wall units out enough to have a shelf running across the back and also to knock a hole in a supporting wall (small concrete lintel only cost £6) to insert the fridge to make it flush. The other side in the hall is now a useful cupboard.

Hi George

Have you considered engineered wood flooring? It's compatible with underfloor heating and I think it would work really well in your kitchen.

Click here for some of our recent projects.

Feel free to give us a call on 020 8341 9222 or email sales@jordanandrews.com, we can get some free samples posted out to you as well.

I would recommend polished concrete tiles, check www.designerstone.co.uk

Hi George - in short, if you clean up the spill, it wont leave a mark.

A bit more info:

Engineered wood flooring can be installed in a kitchen as long as it is subsequently cleaned and maintained correctly. There is unfortunately no such thing as a self-cleaning, impenetrable wood floor, but wood flooring finished with either an oiled or lacquered finish is perfectly suitable for a kitchen provided you look after it.

Oiled and lacquered finishes are both hardwearing, but protect your wood in different ways. Oil penetrates and saturates the wood, protecting it from within, whereas lacquer sits upon the surface as a protective film. Spills can be wiped from an oiled floor without leaving a mark but if you leave them for a prolonged period of time they will leave a stain. If you apply a coat of maintenance oil once or twice a year as recommended you should not have any issues with stains or marks, but if you allow your floor to dry out the wood will become porous and absorb more moisture, which will cause the floor to mark and stain. A great advantage to oiled floors is that they are easily reparable by lightly sanding out marks and stains and then applying a coat of maintenance oil to reseal the floor.

A lacquer is a coating which sits on the surface of your wood floor almost like a plastic film protecting it. It take longer for a spill to penetrate a lacquered finish than an oiled one, but although lacquer is very tough it is not impenetrable. If something spills on the floor and is left there it will eventually penetrate the lacquer and stain the wood beneath, which is difficult to fix as lacquer cannot be spot fixed very effectively

I used Limestone. Surprisingly cheap for 15mm slab and it works BRILLIANTLY with wet UFH, as the stone holds heat well and acts like a heat sink, as well as conducting the heat well. Quoin stone's Dijon limestone is what we have. Lovely stuff, and really low maintenance once sealed properly.