Question on Header Spans
Comments (6)
PROBoen Signature Construction Services, LLC
5 years agotf290 thanked Boen Signature Construction Services, LLCRelated Discussions
So many questions on engineered wood flooring - now another one
Comments (5)We have engineered wood (floating over cement floor) throughout the ground floor and love it - it's easy to keep clean and looks fantastic. I've had a few hot oil splashes in the kitchen and it cleans up just fine. My husband fitted it (experienced DIYer) and he says it was easy and straightforward, he followed the same logic - you can rectify a disaster with floating floor, whereas once glued there is no going back. I've also noticed the floor contracting /expanding a tiny bit throughout the year which I'm not sure how would work out if it was glued down. The only thing I'd say is make sure you cement underfloor is as level as possible, and then level it out some more - we didn't bother too much and the floorboards do squeak in one place over a slightly uneven bit. We got the best insulation we found and I'd never noticed it being particularly cold. We are moving next year and having the same floor but with underfloor heating and no radiators - it'd be fabulous! Good luck on your project!...See MoreWhat's Most Important To You When Picking A Decking Supplier?
Comments (1)ease of use is important as weather is a constant and will make the product unusable quickly...See MoreFull Refurb - Layout Issues (to start with!)
Comments (11)@Jonathan - Hmm the issue with splitting the bedroom above the kitchen (which is currently the master and the biggest) is that you have reduced head height all around the edge. Not sure it'd work to be honest, and I'd rather keep the master bedroom away from the adjoining property, despite thick, old walls. Definitely agree re taking advice from kitchen designers though - important we maximise the potential. @Minnie - Ha, funny you should post that kitchen - that's exactly the style we're looking at; hand painted with a dark blue / white contrast. Had even looked at the deVol ones but I don't think our budget will quite stretch to them, but a local supplier has quoted about a third / quarter of price for something similar but made of pine. Definitely going to add an island, and we had thought we might move those existing units to the utility space downstairs, but upcycling them to become the main kitchen is an interesting idea we might explore. We're also big fans of the existing panelling, so that will probably stay, even if we have to first remove it to damp proof that back wall (it's semi underground, build on a hill-side). We had also considered the idea of an ensuite jack and jill bathroom between bedrooms one and two but we were a little concerned about storage space - we're not big on freestanding wardrobes taking up space, so the existing built-in wardrobes we'd lose to do this wouldn't be ideal. I know where you're coming from regarding the Victorian Range, however, I actually don't think it's original and it's not very well done. The surround is not made of the same Yorkshire stone as the rest of the building is (it's actually quite ugly up-close and looks a bit like crazy paving), and it's freestanding from the surrounding walls - I think it might have been some kind of 60s attempt to recreate a period feature. We had also considered the idea of stove / fire in both the kitchen and the dining room, and if our budget allows, it could be a possibility. However, the dilemma as to where it would be positioned in the dining room still stands, with no existing chimney breasts in there, bedrooms above it (making a centrally positioned fire on the only available long wall difficult) and lack of particularly usable corners. Realistically, wherever the fire / stove goes, we'd probably want a TV to be somewhere nearby so we can relax and enjoy it, so even if we find a good spot for the fire, it's finding a complementary place for the TV and sofa to go too that makes life even harder. First world problems!...See MoreLoft conversion and upper floor layout thoughts
Comments (1)Hi! This is a long a complex post! It's hard to know exactly what your question is. If you are looking for help with the layout design then this is something that I can help you with. For the technical questions relating to structural design then yes, as you say, these are best answered by a structural engineer. Getting the layout right for you first and then speaking to the engineer is usually the process that I would go through. I always start off with looking at what it is you want to achieve from the additional space you create. I would also look at upgrading the thermal performance of the roof since you will need to recover the roof anyway. You will need to add in insulation anyway but there are ways of doing it that is much more effective and there are some serious errors that are commonly made that you need to avoid - like cutting holes in the insulation to install inset downlights. You can have a look at how I work and get a copy of my free Design Your Home Vision checklist on my website here: www.i-architect.co.uk best wishes with you project, Jane...See More
tf290
5 years agoThanks for the replies!
Thanks for the replies!
I've attached a couple of pictures of the wall to be removed. The current door opening has a double 2x6 x 30" header which would be removed. All the 2x4 studs would be removed ,only leaving the studs on the end which would be a column. Header would span 8" from the current door opening to the studs on the end. The 2x6 ceiling joist above are 16" OC. and there are no braces on this wall above in the attic to the roof rafters. Below this wall in the basement is a Triple 2x8 with steel columns. On the other end of the kitchen they used a double 2x12 and that's because they didn't have the clearance to put headers above the windows
I found a local company that can make a double 2x8x8" header with a 7" x 1/2 plate bolted between.
- PRO
Boen Signature Construction Services, LLC
5 years agotf290 thanked Boen Signature Construction Services, LLC tf290
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoThanks again!
So , I've attached a couple of pictures of the beam in the basement. The two steel columns and triple 2X8's are directly below this wall. The triple 2x4 on the end of the wall does not fall out on the center column below. It's approx 24" from the second column and falls out where you see the 2x8's in the one picture. The floor joists are also 2x8 - 12" OC
User
5 years ago
PPF.