Hi what is the large plant at the back of the border many thanks

James Denvir

last year

Jd77

Town Garden Acton · More Info

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PRO
Breeze Garden Design
last year
HI James, do you mean the one with the white flowers? That's Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle' that open as lime green, and fade to creamy white during the summer.
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Hi. If one of the level changes is 1.6m then you will definitely need professional support if you are putting in walls to retain the changes in level. If it is a wall that high, then it would be usual to get a structural engineer to do the design as it will need careful calculations to ensure it can take the weight. If you thought garden designers were expensive, then hold onto your hat for the engineers fees. A good garden designer may well be able to break the level change down into more manageable heights, that only require walls of a height that they could design for you. Obviously I don't know what the designers you had were charging, but remember it is a lot of work to design a garden, including time spent with you understanding what you want in the space, doing a detailed survey, including level changes, drawing the survey up to scale, designing the garden, drawing up the plan, doing drawings to demonstrate the design so you can visualize it, and planning the types of planting and materials for the build. It all takes time and expertise to do properly. It is equivalent to an architect for the garden.
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@embzop that’s really interesting- I didn’t know that! Although it does make sense.. nice to know it doesn’t include bamboo tho! Makes me think that we really do need to trim our conifers (it’s been on the list to do for a while - they’re definitely way over 2m! Although our neighbours have never mentioned it!) @catrine - sorry for the misinformation.. you do still have the right to plant what you like! But if they’re awkward they may get fussy about the height!
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Ignore me if I'm having a blonde moment (which is likely!) but if you continue without the border isn't it going to look really obvious where he will cut tiny pieces to take it to the edge as you'll have a difference in tone in each plank or do you have enough variety of planks left to make it look seamless ( or does he propose removing the outer planks that are already laid and fitting longer ones which would then work??). I don't have LVT but just imagining it could look messy if it's the former option? My personal preference is without a border but a border could look good. My mum has LVT btw and the only thing I don't like is she has clear sealant around the skirting boards and kitchen cabinets. I assume you could use a wood coloured one which may work better but I also assume by removing the skirting you remove the need for sealant altogether?
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Comments (3)
Hi Michelle These are both relatively tough spots for many plants as they are shaded and in the case of the one by the house will tend to not get much water as the house 'shades' it from the rain. Therefore the first thing I would recommend is improving the soil by digging in a lot of well rotted farmyard manure or similar. This not only feeds the soil and plants, but also helps hold water in the soil. In relation to the 2 beds - firstly the one by the wall. Lavender needs full sun to look good and quickly looks leggy and flowers poorly in spots like yours. The key message is 'right plant, right place'. Medium size shrubs like Pittosporums cope with shade and are evergreen and give year round interest and structure. One call 'Golf ball' stays a nice rounded shape for below a window. Flowering perennials that give good value in part sun are hardy Geraniums - one called 'Rozanne' flowers all summer and also Astrantias which give 2 rounds of flowers (spring and autumn) which last for a long time. The latter do prefer not to dry out though so they would need to be kept moist. It would be nice to screen the wall a bit, so a wall shrub that you can prune to keep in order like Pyracantha would serve well. Again it is evergreen and has spring flowers and autumn berries. The other perennials listed below would also work. On the second bed I am going to be annoying and say 'you don't want to do that', in relation to planting the common laurel hedge. These are big bully plants that will quickly fill nearly the whole depth of your bed and will really compete with any shrubs you put in front. Because of the big leaves they are also hard to clip to a narrow hedge that is more controllable. You might try Prunus lusitanicus, Yew or even just privet. Again as regards plants you want shrubs that can tolerate being in the shade. Good evergreen ones are Chiosya (white flowers twice a year), Viburnum tinus (white flowers in winter), Pittosporum Elizabeth. These shrubs do get big, so you could just use them and not plant the hedge at all. A good small shrub is Sarcococca confusa which has very scented flowers in February. Deciduous shrubs might be Viburnum plicatum 'Kilimanjaro' (white spring blossom and good autumn foliage), Viburnum opulus compactum (white blossom, berries and good autumn colour) or Fothergillia major. Consider using perennials like Hellebores, ferns, hardy geraniums, heucheras and euphorbias to underplant and fill in space at the front of the bed. Good luck with it!
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Hi what is the large plant at the back of the border many thanks

Comment (1)

Breeze Garden Design

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