Flame effect fire...
1sandyh
4 years ago
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Jonathan
4 years ago1sandyh
4 years agoRelated Discussions
What type of fireplace is your favourite?
Comments (18)When we extended our house last year with a large fireplace we wanted a multi fuel burning stove. However the regulations regarding flue and chimney meant the neighbours would have been subjected (and may have objected) to this eyesore, even if at the back of the house. We settled for a Gas version. The stove itself (Huntington) looks exactly the same as the multi fuel version. However, we are really delighted with it. The flame looks really genuine and as others have stated there is no cleaning out and we have instant heat and sometimes so much output that we no longer have to turn on the central heating in the lower rooms! A real success. (Awaiting our first gas bill however)....See MoreGas fireplace or wood-burning fireplace
Comments (19)Hi, yes they're actual flames with all the natural movement and variation you'd expect (and the volume of flames/heat output is controllable with it being gas). When the stove is set up, there are ceramic 'logs' and embers positioned (that do look very realistic) and also some stuff that looks like wire that they call Emberglow. This wiry stuff is near invisible and spread/clumped at the bottom and this causes the flames to vary and lick and dance upwards. We were worried a fake wood burner would look naff and were disappointed when we knew we couldn't have the real thing, but went to see this in action in a showroom and were impressed! It helps that the model we have also comes as a real wood burner and the cast body is identical for both....See MoreHow to make a Victorian house warm?
Comments (24)Hello! We have done two things which relate to some of the issues you describe. However, I should point out that we don't have a cellar; we have ground around 30cm below our ground floor joists. We have wooden floorboards rather than concrete - but I would imagine concrete would be easier to insulate, perhaps from below, in the ceiling of the cellar? Anyway, this is what we did: We insulated under our floor borads on the ground floor. (Note that not every single one has to be lifted, you lift a few every foot or so). Celotex was inserted between the joists. There is a risk the insulation will fall out onto the ground below, so they cut it slightly too big and then hammer it in. It's wedged in very tight and we have had none fall out two years later. As I wrote in my post above as well, we added angled vent covers outside to reduce the draft coming in under the floorboards. We were very concerned about air cirulation when doing all of this, but we have come to the conclusion that the air circulation is already so large under our ground floor, that the celotex and vent covers aren't really an issue. It's not like we have sealed everything shut, there are still plenty of tiny gaps everywhere. We haven't had any issues with mould or anything like that. The other thing we have done more recently is to balance our radiators. We had the problem that our front room was extremely cold relative to the rest of the house (although we had high spec/high BTU radiators in all rooms). We thought this may have been due to low power on the radiators, but in fact after doing a big rebalancing exercise, it's now the warmest room in the house. We're quite surprised how much of a difference rebalancing makes. There are plenty of guides online which we followed; essentially, what you do is you first check how open each radiator is (check the lockshield valve, not the TSV!). We wrote this down on a piece of paper for each radiator in the house (e.g. "fully open", "3/4 open", etc). We then put the heating on from cold and ran around the house checking which radiator fires up first/last. Made a note of this on paper. We then realised that in our case, although the front room radiator was fully open (which would suggest it should get the hot water first), in fact so were many of the radiators that are closer to the boiler. As a result, the hot water was going to those closer ones first (it takes the easiest route). The solution was to close the lockshield valves on the radiators closer to the boiler (not completely, you do it 1/4 of a turn at a time and check the effect). After a few runs we were able to get to a point where the hot water was filling up the front room radiators first. Now it's great. I hope this can help you! Good luck!...See MoreAdvice on adding a fireplace or feature for 60s townhouse
Comments (8)Thanks for that, Jonathan. Fancy you recognising my street! Small world!! I did see one of electric fires last week and agree they look very good, so I’ll have a proper look at those. Pricier than the ethanol but maybe worth it. I do like the side by side look. Just wasn’t sure how to create the shelf part or where to get them from. I prefer a stone or cement type look rather than bright modern white as I want a mid century feel....See More
Sonia
4 years agoI have an electric faux log burner and I love it. Lots of people are fooled thinking it’s real. Mine is by Dimplex and cost about £300. The heat is warm air coming out from the bottom of the unit. They also do a more expensive one that uses steam to create an even more realistic one. I’ll try and find a pic. This is mine.
1sandyh
4 years agoSonia
4 years agoSonia
4 years agoStoves seem to do a large range of contemporary electric fires that may fit the bill? I saw this one which they say can be 2 or 3 sided.......🤔
minnie101
4 years agoHi 😊There's this one but no price on it which says it all 😂 what size and shape do you need?
https://www.stovesareus.co.uk/evonic-e1030ds-double-sided-electric-fire.html
Frances C