How to Design a North-facing Garden
Create a richly diverse and flourishing plot by learning to love the leaf colours and forms of shade-loving plants
A shady garden is full of possibilities. Focus on foliage not flowers, say our experts, and you can have a corner full of dramatic interest that takes less maintenance and watering than its sunny equivalent – and looks better for longer, too.
Professional advice from: Jane Ashley of Jane Ashley Garden Design; Luke Roeder of Luke Roeder Landscape Design; Katie Davies of Simply Garden Design
Beginning your garden project? Read How to Start a Garden Redesign
Professional advice from: Jane Ashley of Jane Ashley Garden Design; Luke Roeder of Luke Roeder Landscape Design; Katie Davies of Simply Garden Design
Beginning your garden project? Read How to Start a Garden Redesign
The size of the house or apartment, and shade from neighbouring buildings, trees or fences will have an effect, too. “Some large, open gardens will have sun for most of the day, whereas a garden in a town or city may get very little because of these issues,” Katie Davies says.
“A north-facing garden doesn’t automatically mean no sunshine,” she says. “In the summer, when the sun is higher, areas that were in shade in the winter will now be in sun. This also needs to be taken into account.”
“A north-facing garden doesn’t automatically mean no sunshine,” she says. “In the summer, when the sun is higher, areas that were in shade in the winter will now be in sun. This also needs to be taken into account.”
How does this affect how I design my garden?
“When designing a north-facing garden, I use plants that require very little sun, so that any they do receive is a bonus, not a necessity,” Luke says.
Plant choices are key for a north-facing site, Jane agrees. “Choose varieties that are suitable for the conditions: right plant, right place. The aspect will also affect the best position for seating areas.”
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“When designing a north-facing garden, I use plants that require very little sun, so that any they do receive is a bonus, not a necessity,” Luke says.
Plant choices are key for a north-facing site, Jane agrees. “Choose varieties that are suitable for the conditions: right plant, right place. The aspect will also affect the best position for seating areas.”
Need help with your outdoor space? Find garden designers in your area.
“Look for the pattern of the sun and where it hits the garden,” Katie advises. “Most people, though not all, prefer a place to sit in the sunshine, but often this has been taken up by plants, because the patio has usually been put against the house [ie in the shade if it’s a north-facing garden]. You need to decide who – or what – is the priority. I try to always have some form of perch, whether a bench or a table, in the usable sunshine.
“I have a north-facing garden myself,” she continues, “and eventually dug out part of a border to build a small patio, so we could sit in the sunshine at lunchtime (we work from home). It’s been the best thing I’ve done in the garden. And the plant I spent years refusing to dig out I now can’t even remember.”
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“I have a north-facing garden myself,” she continues, “and eventually dug out part of a border to build a small patio, so we could sit in the sunshine at lunchtime (we work from home). It’s been the best thing I’ve done in the garden. And the plant I spent years refusing to dig out I now can’t even remember.”
To see more from any of the designers whose photos are featured in this article, click on the image, then on Learn More if you’re in the app, and follow the links to the professional’s profile.
Which plants should I choose for my north-facing garden?
Jane suggests the following:
Jane suggests the following:
- For shade planting and interesting foliage, choose ferns such as Polystichum setiferum ‘Herrenhausen’ (soft shield fern); Asplenium scolopendrium (hart’s tongue), or Polypodium vulgare (licorice fern). Go for Hosta ‘Sum and Substance’ [pictured] if you don’t have too many slugs and snails; grass Luzula nivea; big, tropical-looking Fatsia japonica, and variegated Heuchera ‘Green Spice’.
- For dry, deep shade, try Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae; impeccably neat Osmanthus x burkwoodii, and drought-tolerant Dryopteris filix-mas (male fern).
- Spring-flowering woodland plants to choose include Pulmonaria ‘Blue Ensign’; Cyclamen coum; Helleborus argutifolius, plus self-seeding biennial honesty Lunaria annua.
- For acid soil, go for camellias, azaleas, and rhododendrons.
- Summer-flowering plant options for part shade where the soil is not too dry are Astrantia ‘Roma’; Astilbe chinensis var. taquetii ‘Purpurlanze’; Persicaria amplexicaulis ‘Firedance’, and Anemone x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’.
- For later in the year, choose robust geraniums for dry shade, such as Geranium macrorrhizum ‘Bevan’s Variety’, or Geranium phaeum ‘Album’. Liriope muscari is also a good bet.
- For late-summer colour where the soil is not too dry, the climbing hydrangea, Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris, is a nice option.
Luke says:
- Choisya ternata [pictured] loves the sun, but will grow very happily, if slowly, in low light levels.
- Berberis thunbergii grows in almost dense shade.
- Sarcococca confusa is very happy in shade and has scented flowers in winter.
- Mahonia japonica [also pictured] is an evergreen that flowers in shade and during winter.
- Anemanthele lessoniana (previously Stipa) is one of the very few grasses that will grow in dry shade. It’s not very long-lived (about four years max), but so useful.
- Helleborus x hybridus flowers in late winter and is very happy in dry shade.
Katie’s advises:
More: 8 Planting Tips for Novice Gardeners
- For dry shade, opt for Alchemilla mollis [pictured]; Bergenia; Iris foetidissima, and Viburnum davidii.
- If the ground is more moist, try ferns, hellebores, hostas, Fatsia japonica, camellias, hydrangeas and Sarcococca for some winter fragrance.
- If the area gets at least four hours of sun per day, then all the plants that state ‘partial sun/shade’ are useable. These include perennials Astrantia; asters; Japanese anemones, and foxgloves, plus shrubs such as Choisya; Osmanthus; Pyracantha, and Philadelphus.
- For fragrance, choose Choisya; Osmanthus; Philadelphus; Lonicera, and Viburnum.
- Winter-flowering plants with stronger scents that are great for insects include Mahonia; Sarcococca, and Skimmia.
More: 8 Planting Tips for Novice Gardeners
Patios normally run along the back of a house. Where should they be in a north-facing garden?
If your garden is north-facing and your patio or seating area is adjacent to the back of the house, it will be in the shade for the majority, if not all, of the time.
“If you prefer to sit in the sun, you may want to put your seating area partway down or at the far end of the garden,” Jane says. “It’s worth considering when you’ll spend most time in the garden. If you’re out at work for most of the day, you may want to have your main seating area on the west side of the garden to get the evening sun.
“If you prefer to sit in shade, which plenty of people do, it makes sense to site the main patio next to the house,” she adds.
If your garden is north-facing and your patio or seating area is adjacent to the back of the house, it will be in the shade for the majority, if not all, of the time.
“If you prefer to sit in the sun, you may want to put your seating area partway down or at the far end of the garden,” Jane says. “It’s worth considering when you’ll spend most time in the garden. If you’re out at work for most of the day, you may want to have your main seating area on the west side of the garden to get the evening sun.
“If you prefer to sit in shade, which plenty of people do, it makes sense to site the main patio next to the house,” she adds.
“Depending on the size of the garden, I usually aim to create a space for dining in the sun at the weekend,” Katie says. “Sometimes, this means having two patios or moving the one by the house.”
Is there anything I can do with hard landscaping, boundaries and levels that might help?
“Giving some elevation to seating areas may help,” Luke says, “though every north-facing garden is different.”
“Keep hard landscaping light in colour and use the green of the plants to bring life to the garden,” Katie suggests. “Using the boundaries and either painting them a paler shade or using them for climbers can add light and colour.
“Creating levels towards the bottom of the garden could ensure you get the sun if you have the space,” she adds. “If you’re not going to overlook neighbours, you could build a high sundeck; otherwise, just raise the levels as much as you’re able.”
“Giving some elevation to seating areas may help,” Luke says, “though every north-facing garden is different.”
“Keep hard landscaping light in colour and use the green of the plants to bring life to the garden,” Katie suggests. “Using the boundaries and either painting them a paler shade or using them for climbers can add light and colour.
“Creating levels towards the bottom of the garden could ensure you get the sun if you have the space,” she adds. “If you’re not going to overlook neighbours, you could build a high sundeck; otherwise, just raise the levels as much as you’re able.”
Can you recommend a material for paths and patios that’s resistant to blackening and moss build-up?
“Materials with a low water absorption will be most resistant to moss,” Jane says. “Ask about this when you’re deciding between different stones.
“Porcelain is popular partly because it absorbs less water than natural stone, such as sandstone, and is therefore generally more resistant to moss,” she says. “Composite decking, such as Millboard, is non-porous, so is also more resistant to moss build-up.”
“Materials with a low water absorption will be most resistant to moss,” Jane says. “Ask about this when you’re deciding between different stones.
“Porcelain is popular partly because it absorbs less water than natural stone, such as sandstone, and is therefore generally more resistant to moss,” she says. “Composite decking, such as Millboard, is non-porous, so is also more resistant to moss build-up.”
“There are plenty of proprietary products to remove moss, but always check with your stone supplier which ones are suitable for the type of stone you have,” Jane continues. “You shouldn’t use an acid-based product on limestone, for example.
‘Most people jet-wash their stone as the easiest way to get it clean, but stone suppliers often advise against this in case it damages the surface, recommending scrubbing with soapy water instead,” she says.
“I find porcelain still goes green in the shade,” Luke says. “Natural stone is fine as long as you don’t use a budget one that’s very porous. Sealing is an option, but I recommend one or two applications of algaecide per year and find this keeps the stone looking clean.”
More: A Beginner’s Guide to Porcelain Patios
‘Most people jet-wash their stone as the easiest way to get it clean, but stone suppliers often advise against this in case it damages the surface, recommending scrubbing with soapy water instead,” she says.
“I find porcelain still goes green in the shade,” Luke says. “Natural stone is fine as long as you don’t use a budget one that’s very porous. Sealing is an option, but I recommend one or two applications of algaecide per year and find this keeps the stone looking clean.”
More: A Beginner’s Guide to Porcelain Patios
Should I have a lawn?
“This depends on the size of the garden,” Luke says. “If it’s modest in size, it’s probably better not to have a lawn. A small lawn is hard to maintain, as it won’t withstand much foot traffic and may often be wet if it doesn’t receive a lot of sun.
“If you do decide to have one, use shade-tolerant turf or a mix of seeds that can cope with low light levels,” he says. However, he also warns that these mixes do not respond well to close mowing and are not very hardwearing.
“If the garden is small, it might be better simply to use paving broken up with planting,” he says. “Or create a gravel garden, with the plants growing in the gravel and paving in some areas.”
“This depends on the size of the garden,” Luke says. “If it’s modest in size, it’s probably better not to have a lawn. A small lawn is hard to maintain, as it won’t withstand much foot traffic and may often be wet if it doesn’t receive a lot of sun.
“If you do decide to have one, use shade-tolerant turf or a mix of seeds that can cope with low light levels,” he says. However, he also warns that these mixes do not respond well to close mowing and are not very hardwearing.
“If the garden is small, it might be better simply to use paving broken up with planting,” he says. “Or create a gravel garden, with the plants growing in the gravel and paving in some areas.”
“If you decide not to have a lawn,” Jane says, “using a permeable surface with gravel or clay pavers will allow rainwater to seep into the ground. This is important, given the problems caused by flooding and overloading our drains. Plus it can give a relaxed and natural feel to the garden.
“I’d also suggest having deep borders, so there’s plenty of greenery and the hard surface doesn’t dominate,” she adds.
More: Can I Have a Lawn-free Garden That’s Kind to the Environment?
“I’d also suggest having deep borders, so there’s plenty of greenery and the hard surface doesn’t dominate,” she adds.
More: Can I Have a Lawn-free Garden That’s Kind to the Environment?
Are there any design or decorative tricks I can use to add brightness?
“Painting fences a lighter colour works, and water can also add another dimension,” Katie says.
“Install lighting, so that, in the evening, parts of the garden can glow,” she says. “However, be aware of light pollution. Make sure the lights are on a circuit, so you can have individual lights on when you need them rather than all of them at once. Timers will ensure you won’t leave them on accidentally.”
“Use lighter coloured paving or stone aggregate to reflect what light there is,” Luke adds.
“Painting fences a lighter colour works, and water can also add another dimension,” Katie says.
“Install lighting, so that, in the evening, parts of the garden can glow,” she says. “However, be aware of light pollution. Make sure the lights are on a circuit, so you can have individual lights on when you need them rather than all of them at once. Timers will ensure you won’t leave them on accidentally.”
“Use lighter coloured paving or stone aggregate to reflect what light there is,” Luke adds.
“Plants with pale or variegated foliage can help to lighten shady areas,” Jane says. “Try Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ [pictured]; Lonicera ligustrina var. yunnanensis ‘Baggesen’s Gold’; Euonymus fortunei ‘Silver Queen’, and Liriope muscari ‘Variegata’.
“Dark green foliage is great for contrast, but use it sparingly. In terms of colours, go for cool blues and purples that recede and pale colours, such as yellows, lime greens and whites, for brightness.”
“Dark green foliage is great for contrast, but use it sparingly. In terms of colours, go for cool blues and purples that recede and pale colours, such as yellows, lime greens and whites, for brightness.”
What are your must-haves in a north-facing garden?
For Katie, it’s “light-coloured walls and paving, lighting, and coloured or variegated foliage”.
“The right plants to soften the garden,” Luke agrees, “plus wall-trained fruit trees to provide structure.”
Plants are key for Jane. “Sarcococca confusa for its wonderful winter scent and tolerance of dry shade. Mahonia aquifolium, because it’s very happy in shade and provides vital food for pollinators at the end of winter. And ferns, ferns, ferns – for their ability to thrive in shade, their glorious textures, and the elegant unfolding of their new leaves in spring.”
For Katie, it’s “light-coloured walls and paving, lighting, and coloured or variegated foliage”.
“The right plants to soften the garden,” Luke agrees, “plus wall-trained fruit trees to provide structure.”
Plants are key for Jane. “Sarcococca confusa for its wonderful winter scent and tolerance of dry shade. Mahonia aquifolium, because it’s very happy in shade and provides vital food for pollinators at the end of winter. And ferns, ferns, ferns – for their ability to thrive in shade, their glorious textures, and the elegant unfolding of their new leaves in spring.”
What are the benefits of having a north-facing garden?
“A north-facing garden will have some sun somewhere,” Katie says, “while a south-facing one will only have brought-in shade, from nearby trees, for example. An area of shade for when it’s sunny is a welcome relief. It’s also an asset to wildlife, as there’s usually moisture and places to hide if you’ve created a lush planting area.
“Take on a shady garden and learn to love leaf colour and texture,” she says. “Fill it with shade-loving plants and you’ll get a richly diverse and flourishing corner.”
“A north-facing garden will have some sun somewhere,” Katie says, “while a south-facing one will only have brought-in shade, from nearby trees, for example. An area of shade for when it’s sunny is a welcome relief. It’s also an asset to wildlife, as there’s usually moisture and places to hide if you’ve created a lush planting area.
“Take on a shady garden and learn to love leaf colour and texture,” she says. “Fill it with shade-loving plants and you’ll get a richly diverse and flourishing corner.”
Jane agrees. “Many of the most beautiful foliage plants thrive in shade,” she says. “Having a north-facing garden may prompt you to think more about foliage and less about flowers. This may lead you to create a more interesting garden that looks great for a longer period than one reliant on flowers that are inevitably more fleeting.”
“North-facing gardens can be great,” Luke says. “They reduce the need to create shade, particularly next to the house. Planting requires less watering and maintenance than in a garden that receives full sun – something that’s becoming so much more important with climate change.”
Tell us…
Do you have a north-facing garden? Did you find this advice useful, and do you agree with the benefits of having a shady outdoor space? Share your thoughts in the Comments.
“North-facing gardens can be great,” Luke says. “They reduce the need to create shade, particularly next to the house. Planting requires less watering and maintenance than in a garden that receives full sun – something that’s becoming so much more important with climate change.”
Tell us…
Do you have a north-facing garden? Did you find this advice useful, and do you agree with the benefits of having a shady outdoor space? Share your thoughts in the Comments.
A north-facing garden in the UK will have sun on the left (east-facing) boundary in the mornings and the right (west-facing) boundary in the evenings.
“There won’t be much sun on the back of the house,” Jane Ashley says, “and the sunniest area will be the far end of the garden.”
“Some north-facing gardens might receive a little sun in the summer, but none at all in the winter,” Luke Roeder says.