Should I remove lathe prior to hanging Beadboard?
MaryGrace
8 years ago
The stairwell in my Victorian bungalow is a mess. Last owners made a paneled closet out of it. Removing the closet wall exposed crumbling plaster and rough lathe. We are currently removing all wall coverings. The lathe though is very old and uneven. Should we remove all the lathe to expose the framing studs? Will that create a better surface for the Beadboard paneling? It's scary to think about cutting away the lathe but if it will create a more even surface then we'll do it. Opinions?
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Judy Mishkin
8 years ago
kpappal
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Kitchen help please! Help with colours etc for a small update.
Comments (31)I had a similar situation in a house I moved into years ago. I did a quick fix of painting all of the walls, woodword and the cupboards the same shade of cream. Sounds a bit OTT but it really knocked back the cupboards, which in all honesty are not something you want to make a feature out of, and created a calmness to the whole space. In your case, I would go for an off white so that the gang plug wires, radiator pipes and covers hiding the wires for the extractor fan etc., are disguised as much as possible -- that will tie in with the palest of the tiles in the splash back, and then you will have a pretty basic colour scheme of a very place colour and the dark worktop, fireplace and floor, which will stand out more. I think you need more storage with doors -- that bookshelf isn't doing anything for the kitchen. If you could get something in there that could hide lots of clutter -- even if just something cheap from IKEA, that would help greatly. Or work something around the filing cabinet that you have? A huge cheap mirror over the fireplace would bounce some light around too. If you don't want to go for undercupboard lighting, and if you have enough plug points, how about some lamps on the worktop, especially at the FF end with a floor standing lamp at the end with the chair. For the table, I would go for a table cloth and reupholster the chairs if they are not to your taste. A new blind in a much fresher colour would be great. Depending on the colour of your filing cabinet (if you use it), I think a petrol blue could add a nice vintage vibe to the chimney breast, and make more of a feature of it. I would try and go down a vintage/slightly industrial route rather than country. You may have some stuff lurking around that you could use, once you have got the base colours right -- currently it just feels a little cluttered and a bit of a mish mash. Best of luck. Looking forward to seeing some after shots :)...See MorePainting fitted wardrobes?
Comments (62)Hello fhparis I painted my 1980's fitted dark brown wardrobes a year ago. I was able to remove a shelf which i used to practice on and to get an idea of the finish i could achieve. Or indeed if i could do it. Your wardrobes are lighter in colour which is a plus. I mentioned the products i used in an earlier post. Dont underestimate how long it will take to do. I think i applied 3 undercoats and at least 3 top coats. It was well worth the effort and cost a fraction of buying new wardrobes. The pics show 2 sets of painted wardrobes. Best of luck with your project...See MoreNeed help with ceiling replastering
Comments (9)As I said above (before I was logged in), do not scrape or sand the artex under any circumstances. We got over a similar scenario when converting a former vicarage into a children's nursery a few years ago where the original 1860's ceilings had to be upgraded to give 60 minutes fire protection. The building was grade2 listed, so the cornices couldn't be touched. The conservation officer agreed that we could fix another timber moulding to the ceiling end of the cornice that the new plasterboard could butt up to and form a 'lip' that the plaster skim could finish to. The new ceiling was 15mm lower than before, and didn't look out of place. One thing we did have to consider was the additional weight we were placing on the floor joists above. Our joists were ok and yours probably will be to, but just bear it in mind. From the pictures it looks to me as if the right approach would be to apply strips of wide (100mm) self-adhesive scrim tape to all the cracks and joins in the original ceiling, apply a good coat of Thistle Bond-It, or similar, to the whole ceiling area inside the cornice and re-skim to a flat finish. Just check beforehand the reason for the cracks; tap the ceiling, or push it with your fingers to check it hasn't lost it's bond to the lathing timbers behind. If it is loose it will need to be replaced. Older houses! Don't you just love 'em!!...See MoreHow to make our tired 1930s terrace look pretty?
Comments (19)Not sure how it works in the UK but in France if you are changing the appearance of your house that is visible from the road, you need prior permission. This is to avoid people doing things that are completely out of keeping with the neighbourhood, whether rendering, paintwork, or windows. Here you would probably have to go with cream rendering and retain the tiling, in which case choose a colour for the front door that picks up or contrasts with the brick/rust colour. My own first priority for the outside would be to deal with the garden, which you are very lucky to have, to get things in before the winter. One idea would be to get rid of the tiny patch of grass and lay thick gravel (not attractive to cats) plus a retaining path, create a simple structure to hide your dustbins (and bikes?), and invest in a couple of huge pots with some permanent planting and spring bulbs....See Morekpappal
8 years ago
hayleydaniels
8 years agoMaryGrace
8 years ago
northwindgirl
8 years agohayleydaniels
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PROSagent Builders
8 years agoMaryGrace
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evilfij
8 years agoMaryGrace
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MaryGraceOriginal Author