skip to main content

Concrete floor advice

7 years ago

I am extending a kitchen and dining area to incorporate a relaxed seating area with bifolding doors onto the patio. I want the flooring in the seating area to match and flow out onto the patio. What can be recommended. I have heard about using polished concrete to do this but have never seen it and wonder if it will be dark .

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (2)

PRO
Walls to the floor
7 years ago
Hi Dawn, we offer a microcement application surface. Unlike polished concrete it requires no joins regardless of size. It's highly durable and fully waterproof, it's considered to be a more cost effective option in comparison to concrete and can be completed in a shorter time span.

please take a moment to visit us at www.wallstothefloor.com to see our range of colours and finishes.

Thanks for reading
dawn blair thanked Walls to the floor
PRO
The London Tile Co.
7 years ago
We stock a range called Valverdi Indoor-Out which has been designed for exactly this situation! 10mm porcelain tiles for inside and matching 20mm thick tiles for the patio - you can order a free sample online if you are not sure
Valverdi Indoor-Out Portland Porcelain Tiles · More Info
dawn blair thanked The London Tile Co.
Related Discussions
Spiral Concrete Staircase Advice/Ideas
Q
Comments (11)
String vertical tension cables down from white circle above onto the side of each step (drilled through and secured with bolts) and have one that spirals up those vertical cables (linking each). Although not a fan of spiral staircases, this one is a great centrepiece. To emphasise on this great feature, I would put 3 or 5 LED spotlights/downlights within the white circle above that point towards the steps. I think that will look good. If you are more adventurous paint each steps in tones (i.e red, orange, yellow, white or in green or blue hues - depending on your taste of colour of course) or random multi-colour (green, red, orange, blue, yellow and white).
...See More
advice to turn concrete area to an attractive landscape
Q
Comments (3)
Have you got more garden beyond the concrete? Is this a sunny part of the garden? Are you going to put patio doors into this area? What you do to this area really depends in what you want to use it for- I imagine you have plenty to spend your money on- I would put decking over the concrete for a quick fix and add pots for colour
...See More
Polished concrete flooring vs concrete tiles
Q
Comments (0)
Hi there just wanted some advice on anyone who has PC flooring or concrete tiles. I am debating between the two and there doesn't seem to be much difference in the cost. It will be a big part of our budget so I want to make the right choice. I've heard diff things about the maintenence for the flooring and worried this could be an additionally large long term cost. Any advice appreciated. Thank you Sheetal
...See More
Ground floor, flooring (bamboo) and underfloor heating advice please
Q
Comments (12)
I am about to have electric UFH by ukwarmfloor.com - a norwegian system that has been around for ages over there. ( I do not work for them in any way!) Running costs are MASSIVELY cheaper than our versions. Over there, they instal the mats under roofs, drives and on the decks of icebreakers - they know a thing or two about snow and cold, and so I am giving it a whirl in my guest bedroom and large en suite. This is a response from the man answering all my many questions: "The system as shown would use a total of around 375Wper hour to keep all the areas heated to a constant 26C at floor level. By way of comparison the most efficient cable underfloor system would use 975W per hour to achieve this, whilst a boiler & radiator system would use 750W per hour. Comparisons in terms of BTUs can be a little confusing as most standard tables stating average BTU requirements for domestic situations are based on the heat output of traditional radiators etc. So our system only uses 375W (given as approx 1279BTUs in traditional thermal conversion tables)to do the job that a traditional boiler/radiator system would need 750W to do(given as approx 2559 BTUs). Our system is primarily designed specifically to produce the same air temperature in a room as other systems but to use less power to do so. The two basic reasons for this are: The heating element is self-regulating - only ever drawing the minimum required power at any individual point across the floor to maintain the set temperature. 2. The heating element heats the entire floor area and so effectively turns the whole floor of the the room into a radiant surface, heating the entire volume of air in the room from the bottom up. This is unlike radiators, which only heat a small surface, typically at the sides of a room, or a cable or piped underfloor system which can only heat thin strips of floor, leaving most of the floor surface unheated. Because our system heats the entire area it need only heat to 26C to produce effective air temperatures in the room. Other systems have to heat to much higher temperatures to do this and so require more energy to do so." I have spent an inordinate amount of time reading everything on their system, and I am going to use it. There is also a video of a customer installing it on youtube and the link is on their site somewhere.
...See More

Sponsored

More Discussions

Which layout do you think would look best for our renovation project?

5

How to decorate window on landing

13

Media wall bottom shelf.. logs? Ornaments?

7

Above garage extension to create primary suite

18

Window and door colour/style help please

0

United Kingdom

Tailor my experience with cookies

Houzz uses cookies and similar technologies to personalise my experience, serve me relevant content, and improve Houzz products and services. By clicking ‘Accept’ I agree to this, as further described in the Houzz Cookie Policy. I can reject non-essential cookies by clicking ‘Manage Preferences’.