BORA induction hob with down draft
goetzi
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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Luke BORA ASM London
3 years agoMadeleine Stabler
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Induction hobs with built in ventilation - advice needed
Comments (40)Hi I have the Novy Panorama 1841. I am not sure about the grille type exit point but we don't have one. The previous owners had the kitchen fitted. The unit is less than 3 years old. The right side of the hob is flashing errors and it has taken over 7 working days to get an engineer to come and replace the board. The hob is brilliant when working and really quiet. I think the aftersales service (through Aga Rangemaster) is far from efficient. With the Brexit delays you would think they might stock a few spart parts to mitigate the delays. Its been two weeks without a hob. A five year guarantee is excellent. I could recommend the product but not the aftercare....See MoreKitchen hob location
Comments (7)I'm in the middle of planning my kitchen for new extension too, and thinking of putting the hob under a window. I've found a few things online where folks have done this and are happy with it. There's a blog called simply the nest where someone writes about doing this (and includes photos). https://www.simplythenest.com/simplythenestjournal/2018/3/18/our-experience-of-using-an-induction-hob Unlike in the blog, I'm considering getting one of the induction hobs that have the built in extractor rather than a seperate one above. The Bora mentioned by OnePlan is a bit too pricey for me unfortunately :-( but someone mentioned on another Houzz thread that they'd got the AEG version from eBay at a very reasonable price, so might go down that route. https://www.houzz.co.uk/discussions/4756827/bora-induction-hob-with-down-draft So many decisions!!...See MoreHelp - venting induction hobs
Comments (14)A recent kitchen I supplied, the customer purchased an Elica (Nikola Tesla about 1400.00) and the kitchen fitter was so impressed with it he bought one for his own new kitchen. Always best to duct out and the bigger the pipework (ie 6 inch) the better and the least amount of bends means the less resistance, the more efficient it works and the least noise. So a 2.5m run shouldn't be a problem if done properly. If you fit only 4 inch pipework then its not going to work as well and be noisy. Extraction is governed by building regs Part F which covers new builds, extensions and conversions, for an existing kitchen re fit you can't make the extraction worse than the original kitchen. The difference between combi/bridge and flex for hobs is that 2 zones can be combined, for bridging its just both zones on but with flex induction it has more heating zones and the hob senses the shape/size of the pans and just works in those zones. Venting hobs are like icebergs, very little on show but you can lose 2 drawers underneath to fit it all approx 200mm+ needed (including worktop thickness), then you have the ducting to fit down the back even for recirculating to vent at floor level. All ducted hobs only have 1 filter which is the grease filter and this is suitable for a dishwasher (haven't come across a disposable grease filter for years and then they were a paper filter for integrated extractors), for recirculating you need a carbon filter to clean the air, some of these can be 'recharged' by putting in an oven, others need replacing with a new filter, the manufacturers operating instructions will advise....See Morehob on island cost vs hob on the wall
Comments (8)Hmm, I might be wrong but my understanding is that a recirculating extractor doesn't get rid of steam, only grease and smells. It's confusing - I read lots about it and didn't find many definitive answers - but my understanding was that if we had a recirculating-only cooktop extractor, we would also benefit from a wall mounted expelair type extractor too, which we didn't want. Hence we went for an exhaust air model as we wanted ours to do the whole job. The bit where it ducts out has a system whereby it only opens when its extracting - and the ducting is several metres long so there's no sense of cold air coming up through the hob top, even on these recent very cold, windy and frosty days. I can only say that in my experience, if you want an island hob exhaust air model (as opposed to recirculating), there are costs which are additional to the cost of the hob itself - ie the ducting pipes and the work that goes into planning and executing the ducting under the floor and out to the open air. The position of the ducting has to be millimetre perfect at quite an early stage of the build so we had a lot of head scratching and very careful work to make sure that our kitchen plan and the position of the ducting were exactly aligned. We've paid our builder a day rate so there's definitely been an extra, if slightly undefinable, cost there. Perhaps in some cases it's very straightforward but in ours it wasn't, and as I said the ducting itself isn't cheap (around £100/m) - so in a direct comparison between a recirculating and a ducting version of the same cooktop (where the cooktops themselves cost exactly the same) the ducting one was a more expensive option for us, but one we're glad we went for. I should say we're in a 1930s house, which, although we're doing our best to make it energy efficient, is never going to be airtight like a passiv haus. So for us the benefit of getting rid of steam outweighs any potential small energy loss through the ducting to the outside. Of course everything I've said above may be rubbish... I'm just a girl trying to do a renovation with conflicting advice from all sides... :)...See MoreLuke BORA ASM London
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3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoMadeleine Stabler
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