Butcher Block Counter

5 years ago

Hi Everyone,

Ordered some unfinished butcher block.

What is the best way to finish these? Everywhere I look gives a different option.

We we are in Canada so I cant seem to find Waterlox which is what a lot of people use. I want it to stand up to kids. I tested with some mineral oil and it leaves cup rings and stuff which will annoy me.

Thank you

Featured Answer

PRO

Patricia Colwell Consulting

5 years ago

DO NOT seal your butcher block ever. Wood has an enzyme that kills bacteria and when you seal it that no longer works. A good food grade oil is all you need not mineral oil . Ikea actually has a great product I have used for years on my butcher block counters . The counters in this pic are 17 yrs old I ran a catering biz from that kitchen for 8 trs and they counters still look like new the area around the sink I oiled more often

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (28)

writersblock (9b/10a)
5 years ago
If you want a permanent finish like waterlox, tung oil is another possibility, although that can create problems for people with tree nut allergies.
Chris thanked writersblock (9b/10a)
Related Discussions
Old Bungalow! Nothing been done for years!
Q
Comments (5)
This isn't a poll, it's a design dilemma. Could you give us more information and be more specific about your questions? For example, do you have existing furniture to go into the living room? Do you need to be careful with your budget (e.g. you could gut and recreate the kitchen, or decide to work around the existing cabinets, stove, washing machine). I'm assuming that you haven't yet moved in? I have all sorts of possibilities wandering vaguely around in my head but they don't have much to hook into, even though I've browsed some of your idea book pics. I think you might like a floor-to-ceiling bookcase to the left of the fireplace? I could see the living room having two sitting areas, and that a big sofa against the window could make a great place for reading the books in it. I also think you might like to paint the room in a light neutral, perhaps an ivory colour. What's under the carpet, which I suspect isn't to your taste? Lots to talk about, but give us more clues, please.
...See More
Butchers Block Suppliers
Q
Comments (0)
Hi I am looking for US-based companies that supply butchers block timber and I need samples. Ideally East Coast Help anyone?
...See More
Filling a gap next to counter top sink
Q
Comments (3)
As above, the sink is supposed to look like that, the same with baths of that fashion. If you fill in the gap that side, it may look odd on the other side. You really need a smaller basin so that the gap around it is larger to enable wipe ups. The other choice would be to have a counter top sink with a back and a small side edge so that they fit in to the corner like this:- It looks like it's next to a piece of MDF, so hopefully it's not fitted yet as that needs painting and sealing otherwise it will soak up the water and swell.
...See More
Kitchen Flooring Help! Butchers block and cream.
Q
Comments (27)
Hi there, Quickstep do in fact have a couple of slate vinyl options. You can see them on our website here. If you are looking for some samples you can get in touch with us via email at info@floormonster.co.uk or you can call us on 0141 887 5698. Here are two darker options from this range. These boards are the exact same colour. However, the spec of them are different. AMCL40034 Grey Slate AMPL40034 Grey Slate Kind Regards, Jack
...See More
tatts
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Yeah, what PCC said. You never want a finish ON the wood. You want it IN the wood.

That is some kitchen, Patricia!
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
5 years ago
Chris:

If your sink is installed in the butcher block, and particularly if it's undermounted, you're going to have to wipe up every bit of water all the time, finished or not.
cpaul1
5 years ago
I don't understand butcher block counter tops. I would never do that. I wouldn't want my kitchen counter tops to be a giant cutting board. That's why they have cutting boards .... to put on top of actual counter tops to be used only when needed.
daisychain Zn3b
5 years ago
I’m guessing that because you’re talking about Waterlox, you’ve ordered wood counters but not butcher block. Butcher block is not usually sealed just oiled and is meant to be cut on directly.

If you have wood counters not butcher block, I’d suggest using Old Masters wipe on poly. You’ll have to do at least three coats (I’d do more). It is quite easy to apply and is available in Canada.
PRO
Beth H. :
5 years ago
daisy,,it has to be food safe. and it has to be able to work w/water. poly does neither. wipe on poly has varnish and other non-food safe additives.
PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
5 years ago
They did state it is butcher block and when you use it as a cutting board about once a year you sand lightly and reoil , looks like new again and poly for sure not.
daisychain Zn3b
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Beth h., that’s why I made the distinction between wood counters and butcher block. Butcher block needs to be food safe but a wood counter that is being used the same way a table top would be does not need to be food safe. The old masters works great on counters. I’ve not used it around sinks, but have used it on prep areas that are often wet. I’ve read about using marine finishes for the edges that will come in contact with water. Alison sealed her wood sink area with “Good Stuff For Wood” IIRC. She had hers for years without issue. Not sure if it’s available in Canada.

In the kitchen we are currently working on, we are setting the sink in a short run of stone then doing wood counters on the rest.

ETA: for some reason, on this forum, wood counters of any sort seem to be referred to as butcher block on a regular basis.
PRO
Beth H. :
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
daisy, i was just referring to any wood that is used around food. even if you have a wood counter, you still rest your food on it. sometimes you'll do a quick cut w/o reaching for the cutting board. sometimes you lay your fresh produce on it,,,whatever,,,I just wouldn't want any thing on my countertop that's not food safe. And poly really isn't a good choice for that anyway. poly is rigid and doesn't allow expanding and contraction. if the wood gets damp or went, it might expand w/the moisture. repeated movements like this will eventually crack the poly finish. An oil or food safe varnish is a better choice for counters or butcher block wood. however, you can mix your poly w/oil and some mineral spirits and make your own varnish. that would allow more wood expansion.

I guess it just depends on the humidity in your house, the amount of water that comes in contact, and the type of usage you do on your counters. sometimes things work and sometimes they don't!

BTW, can Waterlox not be shipped to Canada? anyone in the US you know that can have it shipped to you?
Chris
Original Author
5 years ago
Thanks everyone.

Yes, wood counters. They are bamboo and I don’t intend on using them as cutting boards. I’ll put plastic cutting boards on them to cut food.

I really just want something that will soak in, seal them, and keep them looking great.
PRO
Beth H. :
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
chris, have you called waterlox to see if they will ship to canada? it's a sealer but it still should allow the wood to breathe.

you can also use regular mineral oil. I've used it on my bamboo. it won't turn rancid like a vegetable oil would. I've also used tung oil, but it is very viscous and will need thinning w/a solvent. I use a natural citrus solvent w/my oil. Never use that stuff in the big stores that say, "tung oil finish, or danish oil finish". those compounds are actually a varnish w/non-food safe chemicals in them and very little actual oil.
Chris thanked Beth H. :
daisychain Zn3b
5 years ago
There’s also wax sealers like Rubio and osmos. They get in and bond to the wood. I still prefer the old masters and I’ve tried at least four different things on the two wooden islands we’ve had. For our new counters I’m going to see if I can get good stuff for wood just because they’ll see more water and it’s one I haven’t tried yet. If not, I’ll do the old masters again.

Waterlox couldn’t be shipped to Canada last time I looked into but that was about ten years ago.
Chris
Original Author
5 years ago
What is the IKEA product. I see they have two
spiritflower
5 years ago
Take a look at Livos Countertop Oil.

https://livos.com/en-ca/

We've been using it on our black walnut counters/island for several years and quite happy with it.
PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
5 years ago
The Behandla is the one I have used but the new Skyd looks grat too.
Aurora Tee (Zone 6a)
5 years ago
I use a true butcher block top that I ordered from Boos. Originally I thought I would use it for another purpose but in the end decided to make a coffee bar. The original finish was food grade mineral oil. But as I wanted it to withstand a little more liquid use and no food prep would be done on it, I sanded it down and used General Finishes Arm-r-Seal as the new finish coat. It looks gorgeous. Now if I were to set an apple down or even a piece of bread for a few moments, I would not worry about chemicals or contaminants. Boos makes their EZ-Do finish which they also say is food safe. But NOT cutting safe. Since the OP has no intention of cutting on their top, I can see no reason why a suitable product such as EZ-Do or Arm-r-Seal cannot be used.
Josie23: Zone 5: WI
5 years ago
My island has a butcher block top. I use Boos Mystery Oil on mine. Basically a food grade mineral oil with some beeswax. I haven't cut on it (too new) but do use it directly to make bread/pizza dough and pastry items. I work part time in a bakery and they have Boos block tables for working on, mine is custom made by local Amish but it's the same thing. The amish made one was actually slightly cheaper than Boos. I would never seal it because I do put food directly on it. Over time the repeated mineral oil treatements will darken the wood, it will get little dings, possibly some light water rings, but it is a kitchen and for me kitchens are meant to be used and loved.
daisychain Zn3b
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Aurora, thank you for the recommendation of the GF product. I just read a bunch of reviews and it sounds very similar to the Old Masters but with a warmer finish which I like. I think I may pick up a can to try. In my city, Lee Valley carries General Finishes products and I like shopping there because they usually have top pros with lots of woodworking experience on the floor to give advice.
Aurora Tee (Zone 6a)
5 years ago
There is a little learning curve to GF oil finish. And if you decide to go flat, it will end up with streaks. I used semi-gloss on the walnut butcher block and it turned out wonderful. But I had the sand the walnut top first as the mineral oil would have caused problems for the Arm-r-Seal (ARS). I then used the Seal-a-Cell first to enhance the natural color followed by three coats of ARS. I had counter area I wanted for my mud room and went with a less expensive birch top from Home Depot. I stained it using the GF Walnut (to match the adjoining kitchen areas) and then three coats of the ARS. It did not absorb as well as with the walnut and the streaking was pretty bad. So I had to switch to a higher sheen. I think the birch is so dense that absorbing the stain and ARS was more problematic than the walnut.

But as Joe points out, around the sink areas you still have to be hyper-vigilant about wiping up puddles no matter the product used to finish. To me, that is a matter of habit that I do even though I don't have wood tops for my main counters.
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
5 years ago

Here's your sink 80 years from now.

Or 18 months.
Chris
Original Author
5 years ago
Thanks Joseph. We are prepared for the upkeep around the sink.

We don’t use the sink very often, mainly the dishwasher. Bought a sink with a larger lip around the top. Would never do an undermount and wood counters.
PRO
Anglophilia
5 years ago
They sue butcher block countertops in the UK all the time and they sure don't look like that one, Joseph! Perhaps we're bigger slobs than the Brits?
RaiKai
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
OP - my sister has a bamboo butcher block counter and uses the stuff from IKEA that I think is just mineral oil - Skydd? - or actual food grade Mineral Oil (also in Canada and not been able to source some other recommended options). They have had their counter for over five years, and resanded it a couple times, but still looks awesome and the farmhouse sink and area around it is just fine :)
Chris
Original Author
5 years ago
I’ve had a couple people recommend Howard’s Butcher Block Oil and Conditioner. It’s a beeswax and mineral oil mix.
writersblock (9b/10a)
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
There have been a number of GW folks who used BB (usually the ikea or other inexpensive version) and were happy. Look for Jenswrens, Brickmanhouse, Shelayne, etc.

Contrary to what a lot of folks are saying in this thread, all of them used a cured finish, not a cutting block oil, because their counters were just counters, not used for cutting, too. Brickmanhouse had gorgeous black BB she dyed with India Ink, then waterloxed:

https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/2678448/finished-kitchen-circa-1840-working-farmhouse-ikea-budget-reno
wiscokid
5 years ago
And look, they're undermounted....
jlj48
5 years ago
I installed wood counters in my last home and absolutely loved them! They are beautiful and warm. I used them with an under mount sink. I initially used Waterlox but felt like it did not hold up. After one year of use U applied clear polyurethane. It held up beautifully. We had many compliments and it helped sell our home. I alsways used a pretty cutting board that was out and ready to use. I also applied numerous coats of the poly around the sink (7 or 8). Go for it! I will see if I can find my old post with photos I shared

Butcher Block Counter

Patricia Colwell Consulting

Comments (28)

writersblock (9b/10a)

Related Discussions

tatts

Joseph Corlett, LLC

cpaul1

daisychain Zn3b

Beth H. :

Patricia Colwell Consulting

daisychain Zn3b

Beth H. :

Chris
Original Author

Beth H. :

daisychain Zn3b

Chris
Original Author

spiritflower

Patricia Colwell Consulting

Aurora Tee (Zone 6a)

Josie23: Zone 5: WI

daisychain Zn3b

Aurora Tee (Zone 6a)

Joseph Corlett, LLC

Chris
Original Author

Anglophilia

RaiKai

Chris
Original Author

writersblock (9b/10a)

wiscokid

jlj48

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Butcher Block Counter

Comments (28)

Related Discussions

ChrisOriginal Author

ChrisOriginal Author

ChrisOriginal Author

ChrisOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Chris
Original Author

Chris
Original Author

Chris
Original Author

Chris
Original Author