gap in roof tile - is this a problem?
R countryside
3 years ago
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Comments (9)
R countryside
3 years agoRelated Discussions
kitchen worktop gap between wall
Comments (13)I'm also questioning the fitters ability to fi I. Line with the wall or pack out the wall where necessary?? I'm not sure how the units above line up and the previous comments are also helpful, as an alternative if you have any lengths of the same wood or can still get hold of a match, you could cut a piece to fit the gap like a wedge and it could be glue in place, make sure the top part isn't over glue so it doesn't squeeze out on top, someone who is handy and with a bit of patience should be able to do it easily enough, if it is cut to fit well it should just wedge in with a tap of a soft hammer and a block of wood, this should then just look like the wood is thicker at the end of the wall, it is a cheaper alternative and you could try it out first, if it doesn't work well or look good enough then you could go for the above suggested alternative of having the wall built out, I'm just not sure how that will look with above units, the best bet would be to have them taken down, have the wall done from worktop to ceiling and then refit the units after. If I was in this situation I would be seriously complaining to the company used for fitting and insist they sort it out, I would request their best fitter is sent and refuse to have the other fitter back under any circumstances as his work has been substandard. Most reputable companies will want to sort it out and fix the problem, if they are awkward you could threaten them with going to watchdog. I hope this was helpful. Kind regards Barbara...See MoreProblem with metro tile with grey grout in kitchen
Comments (29)Thanks again for all your comments. Particularly helpful to be alerted to socket issue. I took these pics before the builder replaced the sockets with some nice chrome ones. (see new pics) However, he's still got them in the wrong place. Will raise that today. He hasn't actually finished the hood area in these pictures - as I stopped him. But also the chimney extractor doesn't seem to be functioning so it needs to come down anyway. This solves this problem and we can tile behind it - although I'm still worried that he's not going to be able to redo the job well enough. I've added some more pics with better light. Still finishing the floor and just have to adjust and tweak a few things but (apart from tiling) nearly there! The kitchen is Howdens Burford Grey, Pure White Quartz from Master Quartz (not been impressed with this as marking so easily with pans, belt buckles, any kind of grime - but probably shouldn't have chosen white! - anyone else had problems with their quartz?), Paint mainly F&B Wimborne White and Slipper Satin woodwork, engineered oak floor from Howdens....See MoreHelp! columns in living room and 2,30m basement gap
Comments (4)If we were working on this project for you - we'd follow up our idea with CAD images to show you better what we mean - we could also explore the changing around of furniture placement etc all to scale and again visible in plan and perspective form. It takes quite a bit of time but is worth doing to get things correct so you can show your builders exactly what you are after ( drawings helps if there are language differences too, with holiday homes abroad !) Drop me a line if you'd like us to take this further ! Kind regards Karen OnePlan...See More1930s bungalow original roof and loft - advice needed please!
Comments (0)I now have a leak in my roof so need to sort this and looking to do what is best for the loft space. I think it is original tiles (as same as lots of neighbours) and original loft space. I have some loose insulation on the floor but nothing against roof/tiles. Ideally I'd like it boarded to use for storage and to ensure it is insulated as best it can be. It is a cold space with nothing on the roof joists so you can see the roof tiles from the inside and even see out through a few holes/gaps. When it rains the orange tiles do show signs of damp on the inside but only one leak showing itself at the moment. I assume this is how they go and that the rain water should not penetrate the tiles totally. I would like to know if I get it boarded and have insulation under the boarding if I need to do anything to the underside of tiles to make it as good as it could be? Also to add I get a lot of dust and debris coming into the loft space from outside (via the gaps in the tiles) so storing anything up there needs to be in container to keep it clean. I also want to ensure I don't cause any problems with damp and lack of circulation. If any one had any advice or can recommend what is best course of action for this situation to stand me in good stead for the next 20 years I'd be grateful . Thanks Jenny...See Morekwg kwg
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