1930s semi extension layout

1930scasa

5 months ago

We have a typical 1930s semi but with a shared driveway (so sideways extension is a no). We have generous room sizes and will be adding 4m on the back, but struggling to think of internal layout.

our definite must haves are downstairs toilet under the stairs, and door from our south facing hallway into the open plan space (we don’t want to block the light or flow through to back of the house).

Wishlist is a utility space (even in just a cupboard!), kitchen with island/peninsular, dining area and lounge area. Our current layout is attached. Pretty keen on keeping the chimney breast as upstairs bedroom has a fireplace. would welcome suggestions or examples!

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Comments (4)

H A
5 months ago
Looks nice! Could you get some afternoon sun into your extension room by having French doors on the west wall as well as on the back wall?
1930scasa thanked H A
1930scasa
Original Author
5 months ago
Thanks. we’re making our existing back door an obscure window for light too, but any more doors on that side will look onto driveway/neighbours fence which isnt prettiest to look at!
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We’re doing one sort of similar, our layout is slightly different as in the kitchen is a galley on the right hand side. The architect is doing plans at the minute. In your drawing, we’d be taking down the garden room/kitchen wall, dining/kitchen and opening the whole lot. A pillar will also be left where your kitchen entrance is at the left side and we’ll make a breakfast bar here. It’s over our 20k> budget to put in more beams and planning is more of a headache. We’ll see what the plans look like for this first though as this may very well change. We’re going to try for a utility also. The architect mentioned going out into the side driveway a little. I’d make your kitchen the whole back room area (cabinets on the far left) and make the sitting room a snug or even a utility room. I’d even widen those walls at the dining/kitchen doorway and you can put doors there for privacy if needed. Close up one of those hallway doors entering the kitchen diner. Have the kitchen open out into the garden for a feel of more space. Excuse the doodle ha ha.
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Hi Melody, Moving toilets can be expensive (ish) but it's about balancing cost and what you're hoping for in the end. There are some gorgeous under stairs toilets on Pinterest if that's closer to your existing plumbing and could work better? If you did the back utility, you'd end up with a kitchen around 3550 deep x 3ish meters wide through to 5400 so there would be plenty of space for a brilliant kitchen depending on how you choose to layout the rest of the space. Plenty of island space and storage! If you're struggling with visualising which is a common issue, especially when you know a place well, people like me can really help. We can help with room planning, layouts and provide lots of 3D drawings so you can really get to know a space before you build it. It's much cheaper to change a drawing than once it's built! If it helps, I offer 10 hours of design work for £250 which often gives people designs they they feel confident to take forward with. I also do free phone consultations if you want to bounce some ideas around over the phone. Just get in touch if I can help Emily x
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Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew
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Hi Laura, That looks like it will be a fantastic addition of space to your home. I think that a change in levels or a low-level dividing wall is a great feature in an open plan space, as it gives clear division of spaces but allows transmission of natural light. This is sometimes called ‘broken plan’ and there are lots of examples and information on Houzz like this article:https://www.houzz.co.uk/magazine/how-to-design-a-broken-plan-space-stsetivw-vs~119315147 So by adding a railing or low height wall to separate the lounge and dining spaces, you could get views of your garden from the living room whilst still having somewhere to place your furniture up against. Its best to keep the ceiling level if you can and use a rooflight and glazing above the bifold to bring light all the way deep into the lounge space. And keep the steps to 1-2m wide to make the most of space either side of them. I would also recommend 2 other changes: reduce the size of the bifold to add more kitchen units with a window, and reduce the size of the utility to make the central space into something usable. Something like a library if you like to read, or a drinks bar if you like to entertain or record player and vinyl collection Please let me know what you think? And I wish you all the best with your extension project!! Phill
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PRO
Fiona Caulfield HOME
5 months ago
The extension will give you a lot of extra space but I would suggest by thinking about what times of the day you think you will be in that space and then work out all the functions it needs to deliver. I can see so much scope but there is a danger of it becoming a duplicate of your living room, which you dont need as its a really good space too.
1930scasa thanked Fiona Caulfield HOME
PRO
Paul Reed Architects Ltd
5 months ago
Looks good. Spacial hierarchy looks good. On a boring practical note I'd consider a couple of things.. a window to the utility for purge ventilation... and I'd watch out for the amount of brick left on the corner (where you say pier to be confirmed by SE). Engineer may want to put in a goal post frame. You may be ok on the right side if there is enough brick (maybe) .. but the left may benefit with a bit more brick to avoid this. If so this would also cover the sides of the units you have there under the window anyway so no biggy. re full fill insulation I tend to avoid in an exposed location unless you are rendering on the outside.. If you need the regs drawings / spec doing give me a shout. cheers
1930scasa thanked Paul Reed Architects Ltd

1930s semi extension layout

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H A

1930scasa
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1930s semi extension layout

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H A

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