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Is it normal for pine floors to have light swirl marks after sanding?

8 years ago

Custom Installations · More Info

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Comment (1)

PRO
Dan's Custom Hardwood Floors
8 years ago
Every single sanding equipment will leave some signature behind. The tolerance for such a thing is determined by the level of expectation set for the homeowner at the time of sale.
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Stain or wax table?
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Hi, if you sand it back down, you can use whatever you like. The product you use would be dictated to by how use the table & how you want to continue to care for it. Wax is lovely, it's mellow, but you can't put anything hot directly on it. Even when you buff, it can leave little streaks, but the more you buff the better the sheen. It certainly gives a beautiful finish for internal furniture. You don't use a sealer with wax it's a water repellent surface. With wax, the after care is dusting / buffing and just more wax. If you go with a varnish, then it will seal the surface, but I still wouldn't put anything hot down on it regardless. You may find over years that the table surface develops little fissures and gets a little brittle under direct sunlight. You just sand lightly and re-varnish, or if not bad, just re-varnish Oil, also gives a nice sheen, I prefer it for rustic pieces like yours, and of course floors and worktops. I don't think oil will be a good match for the benches. If It were me i'd be waxing them. I still think you can cut that down with clear wax and 0000 steel wool, and achieve a better finish than it has now. However, if you really want to start again, just remember the wood has to have that even finish with no patches. The wife says, she would give either one coat of the old pine and a clear coat ( depending on colour match to the benches ) - or if the colour isn't deep enough following the first application of the old pine, then a second coat of the old pine instead of a clear coat. With the wax, you can build the colour slowly. You have to put the wax on as thinly as possible -put it on conservatively with a cotton cloth ( she used to use old shirts ) - little circles and then finish down the grain to even out. Leave for 5-10 mins and buff -only buff down the grain There are lots of instructional videos on using was on YouTube that you may find helpful.
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Newly sanded/restored wood floors
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Hi Edwina, Im probably a bit anal / perfectionist and yes I can see the scratches and greyer toned board... if this was a brand new hardwood floor I would be deeply unhappy but in your case I would embrace them and agree with JC these 'features' add to the wonderful character of your period property ...there will be many more to come with memories made over the years. Your floor is a beautiful, traditional pine floor - a softwood and therefore will dent / scratch easily. Without being up close it is hard to see whether the scratches are on the surface finish or within the floorboard...my guess is that they are ingrained into the floorboard rather than the surface finish. You will drive yourself mad trying to keep your pine floor completely dent / mark free . We have clients requesting distressed / aged / antiqued / worm-holed surfaces to new timber floors and have to try and recreate them lol .We also have clients specifying a pine engineered floor in office spaces which will be dented within a day due to the softness of the timber. That said to prolong the surface finish...do not wear stilletos on this floor - you will see every heel mark , do put felt pads under your furniture and install a large coir mat (inset if possible) at external entrrances to force feet wiping & trap dirt and grit. Grit acts like a sand-paper to the floor finish and will mark / indent a pine floor. Best Wishes, Charlotte Woodflooring Engineered Ltd
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Hi Gabby - yes I noticed that as well re the notifications!! Ridiculous! Maybe there is something in settings that stops that otherwise I will just have to unfollow everyone, urgh. Whats the name of the one you liked from the samples? There was some nice Karndean BUT they were well out of our price range so it always depends on your budget of course. We wanted a warm but neutral floor and this one looks both warm and cool sometimes. Originally I wanted a rich warm floor to balance out the grey but the orange tones clashed with the units and made them look too blue/retro so we decided to go with this one instead.
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Agree with advice above. I’ve done quite a few pieces -would not use chalk paint. I use a small black and decker detail sander (they don’t seem to last too long but are usually not expensive), then a good quality undercoat is vital (I use one made by Mythic which was recommended to me when I had a disaster with some Farrow and Ball paint which refused to dry, but am struggling to find a supplier now, so Zinnser is probably the answer)Then a satinwood - agreed it can get knocked but is a really nice finish and easily touched up. I use a brush but just because I like the finish. I used to use Graham & Green knobs (especially the crystal ones) but recently just purchased some from eBay and they looked great.
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