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how is the headboard effect achieved?

6 years ago

3BHK RESIDENTIAL APARTMENT AT CLUB BELLEVUE- BORIVALI WEST · More Info

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SHAHEN MISTRY ARCHITECTS
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Comments (3)
Hi neilswife05, an option could be to make the wall's decoration fake the head board. Here are 3 quick visualisations that I hope could inspire you using wall paper, mural wall stickers or just paint! From your photos the colour of the room and furniture is not 100% clear, so please forgive me if the colours do not go together in reality. By painting the area up to the window seal high one colour and using another for the rest of the wall up to the ceiling you will achieve the effect of framing the beds. Also an option could be do a one long DIY head board by taking some MDF and making it run horizontally like a wide rectangle under the window. You could paint it or cover it with fabric. There are plenty of tutorial if you are willing to give it a go.
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Hi Trinity, What a lovely project! We have achieved this look by using a 2 part treatment, it's called Lye & Soap. A company called Auro supplied ours (they are one of the main suppliers, and give really concise information and support on how to apply). The look we wanted was like the very 'Scandi' Dinesen boards, and this is how they treat their boards. To start with, you will need lye, which bleaches and removes yellow from the wood; then the white soap which cleans, re-whitens and seals the boards. The process is done with a brush or a foam roller and is really easy! The end result is very clean, matte and fresh looking (you tend to find with oils and paints that the end result can look a bit tacky/thick and heavy) But the Lye & Soap is very thin, and just really absorbs into the wood, whereas oil can tend to sit on top. I hope this helps! Good luck! it would be great to see a completed photograph! Holly @ MillChris Developments Ltd
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How to achieve this paint effect?
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I recently stumbled across this effect while trying to get a cheap way of doing crackle glaze. Basically using PVA glue! Nothing fancy, just the stuff kids use in schools. So to get the effect like the one in the photos I would paint the wall a dark grey colour first then wait till dry. Then slap on the PVA glue, don’t be afraid to apply quite thickly. To get the bumpy texture use a stiff brush with nylon bristles such as a scrubbing brush or yard brush then stipple it (dab, dab, dab) onto the PVA while it’s still wet. I’d perhaps do this in small sections. Wait till this is dry (I get impatient and use a hairdryer). Then paint the second colour, in this case white or light grey possibly watered down a bit for a more washy effect, wait till dry. Then get the sander out and gently go over the whole surface, shouldn’t take much to take the paint off the surface of the bumps revealing the darker grey underneath. Then gently wipe down the dust with damp cloth and seal with a water based varnish. Job done! Incidentally, to get the crackle glaze you apply the second colour while the PVA is still wet then using a hairdryer the top layer of paint seperates to form the cracking effect. Magic! I’ve had mixed success with this depending on the paint. As suggested, test first on sample boards before committing to the walls and do let us know which method you go for. I would love to see final results.
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Struggling to achieve a garden design for our funky plot
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Just an observation but the examples Luciana provided all play off the 45 degree landscaping idea shared by HU-... I think the reason these angles work is that they widen the look of the space they carve out, and invite you into it. The angles almost encourage you to pause for a moment and appreciate your surroundings. They help create mini rooms within the space and each can have a slightly different character or feature, even though the whole is tied together with a pared back planting scheme and clever consistency of stone colour. What stood out most to me about your current garden is how it's central path leads your eye straight to the back of the garden. I imagine that when standing in the space, the path is subconsciously urging you to make your way down to the bottom of the garden. The danger is that, it keeps your eyes focused forwards, meaning you may not actually take a moment to pause/ take in the garden that surrounds you and truly appreciate the wonderful pleached conifers and planting you have put in. I fear that a pagoda that borders such a path (even if in a different location) may only serve to reinforce the effect; a fountain at the end of this, even more so. The series of landscaping at a 45 angle helps counter act this and Luciana's example shows how this can be done quite subtly. I would encourage you to think about how to incorporate the fountain and pagoda around and within the 45 degree offset "rooms" created by the examples Luciana shared above. I notice that they are mainly bordered by formal planting, however, one area, towards the back is actually boarded by a pagoda. Incorporating some climbing plants in and around such a pagoda would give you a lovely area of shade, perhaps for seating and entertaining. The fountain might be a focal point you want to see from the kitchen or dining room. But it could also be the central focus of one of these hardscaped areas perhaps? So, not used as a final destination at the bottom of the garden, but instead used as an initial milestone. Something to draw you out to the garden, and once you're there, you might take a moment to "rest" your eyes on the surroundings, before you move on to the next area of interest that the landscaping draws your eye to. Re: Recycling your hardscaping.... From what I see of Luciana's inspiration, you should find plenty of ways to reuse for your existing hardscaping. However, I have also come across an idea where you can turn old paving slaps into "gravel" chipping for the cost of the machine hire: a rather good way to recycle if you like the idea of gravel gardens. Whatever you decide to do, would love to see pictures of your finished garden once it's done.
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