narrow depth barn door hardware
Tani H-S
5 years ago
Another problem just come across with our barn door style opening into the utility (rolling my eyes!)
When the fridge door opens (with the handle on) there is barely any space left behind it for a thick hanging door. No idea how it’s happened - probably because the brick wall they plastered over was all over the place so they have brought the plasterboard our further than expected.
This means we might only get away with having like a 15mm thick door (ply sheet??) on now. No idea if that will work?
Also need to find some hardware that isn’t too chunky at the top so the door sits as close to the wall as possible.
If I put the door on the inside of the utility (there is about 120mm depth from the front to back) then it eats up into the room which makes it even narrower (only 110cm deep now)
Any bright ideas?
When the fridge door opens (with the handle on) there is barely any space left behind it for a thick hanging door. No idea how it’s happened - probably because the brick wall they plastered over was all over the place so they have brought the plasterboard our further than expected.
This means we might only get away with having like a 15mm thick door (ply sheet??) on now. No idea if that will work?
Also need to find some hardware that isn’t too chunky at the top so the door sits as close to the wall as possible.
If I put the door on the inside of the utility (there is about 120mm depth from the front to back) then it eats up into the room which makes it even narrower (only 110cm deep now)
Any bright ideas?
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (18)
Anthony (Beano)
5 years agoTani H-S
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Live Chat: How to bring personality into your home, December 3rd 12pm
Comments (66)They'll never go out of style Tom - NEVER!! Haha! A10) Ohhh I love eclectic style, Maxine, and yes, I mix styles all the time in my own home! I will say, for as easy as it sounds to just throw everything you love into a space, it’s actually one of the hardest looks to do really well – that’s not to discourage you of course because when it all comes together, it’s incredibly satisfying! While it may be tempting to just include everything you like from all different styles together in one space, the resulting feeling will be one of over-stimulation and confusion. So the secret of this seamless integration requires creativity and some self-imposed boundaries. Sticking with a structured colour palette will give the room cohesiveness without making the room flat and uninteresting. Start with a neutral base for your larger pieces, your paint colours and/or your flooring as a means of grounding the space. Pay attention to how pieces relate to one another and how they relate to the room as a whole. One oversized piece is absolutely fine but 3 or 4 will make the room look cluttered and uncomfortable. Despite using mid-century hoop chairs alongside a more traditional chesterfield in my own living room, the backs of the chairs are of similar height to the low-lying sofa back. There is continuity of the eyeline and nothing jars too dramatically. You also want to ensure that when borrowing from different eras, you mix and match throughout the space – having a mid-century console table with art of the same era hanging above it and then a Victorian style fireplace with an ornate mirror in a different part of the room is going to look ‘off’. Take that artwork and hang it above the fireplace instead and perhaps use the more ornate mirror above the console table instead! Hope that helps!...See MoreWarm white paint for a dark North facing living room in England
Comments (37)Hi Evie. The reason I've been slow to post photos is because my house is very much still a building site and work in very slow progress. I have flung paint on walls a relief from 1927 plaster and peeling wallpaper that went up decades ago. I haven't hung pictures yet as the walls are so hard - picture hooks break - and the friend who is going to do the task hasn't yet been. So, none of these photos will persuade you to use colour - the walls are bleak. But I'm posting them in the right spirit. As for feature walls, I have never liked them. For info, Kate Watson-Smyth said, in a recent post, that they are "so ova". I associate them with the 1970s, which is when I believe they first emerged. I like all over colour; I find it much less intrusive than one wall that stands out awkwardly. As for my furniture, it's mostly interim - on loan as I had nothing after chucking out my two sofas which I bitterly regret. Anyway, with all those embarrassing provisos, here we go. Terracotta sitting room: Caravan by Paper & Paint Library (it's not a current colour; my local independent paint shop keeps records of previous colours and identified it for me); it goes up to the picture rail; I haven't yet found the colour I want above it and on the ceiling; the picture rail, window frames, doors and door frames will all be Caravan, too; the room is really bitty (four doors, jutting out bits, fussy door and windows into the garden, a big fireplace, original tiles around the fire area that I wanted to complement but tone down, and a busy stained glass window) and needs blanket coverage to make it seem less busy. .Green bedroom: Sanderson Laurel below the picture rail; Goblin Green above it and on the ceiling; picture rail and all other woodwork not yet painted; I might do them in a linen colour to tie in with the bed frame though I hate the bed frame and am desperate for a new one. You can see that I'm work in progress by the undealt-with and unpainted grille covering the hole where the fireplace was. Hideous and offensive; longing to put it right. Lots of pictures/paintings to be hung all over. Blue bedroom: This blue is a bit flat but it was only after painting it that I discovered the colour I really want - Abigail Ahern's Bowery Blue which despite being intense has a real lift to it giving it life and vibrancy. The ceiling in here is the wrong blue (bought in haste); I will use a lighter blue. The unhung painting on the right (sorry it's not more visible) is so much more vibrant against this blue than it was against the pale yellow of the wall it was hung on in my previous home. I will have mirrors above the bedhead and a gallery wall opposite plus a mirror near the small window to throw a bit more light in this seriously dark bedroom (dismally dark before I painted it interestingly dark). Bronze shower room: Impossible to photograph this as it's a tiny room; the tiles in the shower area are subtly jazzy and moody. I love having it open (I grew up in India where all showers were in the middle of the room so I've never understood the closed-in box version or the fiddly over the bath option). The bronze tiles are much richer in colour than the photo conveys; the walls are Sanderson Brick Light which looks pale and peculiar in this photo; it is a lot more interesting than on the paint card and picks up on colours streaking through the tiles; it's not such a stark contrast as the photo conveys. That's it. The bedroom that will be a mustardy yellow isn't painted yet so I can't show the walls in there. And, again, apologies for the really unsophisticated furniture and mismatched upholstery, etc. Lots still to be done!...See Morecrittall style window layout
Comments (44)Jonathan originally said taller crittall would look better than the shorter ones even if we had less of them Posted a pic again of the whole room layout for you @Emily. It will have a dark blue black shaker kitchen with suspended chimney extractor on cables and wood effect floor. I’ve seen industrial style kitchens with both crittall and wider bifolds and they both look nice. I would go with bifolds for the cost now because we have a max budget to spent on the house to ever get our money back (it’s not that we can’t afford to do what we want as such but you don’t want to throw money away!) even though I love the Crittall BUT it’s the practical side that we can’t agree on now...See Morefinal kitchen cupboard layout etc
Comments (105)Shan M - I never did do the brick slips in the end! I managed to salvage a wall to the side of the kitchen so ended up just painting the back kitchen wall in the same colour as the units (well itt's a different tone due to the paint finish) and it's quite dramatic and I love it. If I had done brick slips, they would have gone on afterwards and been fitted around the units to save money. retrospectively, the brick slips cost the same as a full brick and although the original builder said it would be cheaper to tile with slips rather than to build a brick wall, the actual bricklayer (after he finished the job) disagreed! He said he could have done block work up the units and bricked all the exposed areas. Probably would have cost the same as tilers are not cheap! Doh....See More
temple274
5 years agoAnthony (Beano)
5 years agoTani H-S
5 years agoTani H-S
5 years agoSo this is the opening and the fridge door that opens against it.
As I said, the left infill bar should have been wider but plastering took an extra inch off the width so it’s messed it up :0(
- so if I can sit the mechanism higher than the door then I just have to worry about the stand off depth (gap between the wall and the door) and what size door thickness I can get away with as a minimum.
Anthony (Beano)
5 years agoTani H-S
5 years agoAnthony (Beano)
5 years agoTani H-S
5 years agoAnthony (Beano)
5 years agoDoor is (actual glass piece) 840x2080 I’ve included some pics of measurements, door sits about 29mm of wall and is about 8mm thick, the over all protrusion of everything form the wall is about 50mm including brackets so should fit into your 75mm gap ok!
Tani H-S
5 years agoTani H-S
5 years agoAnthony (Beano)
5 years agocaro7342
4 years agoTani H-S
4 years agoAnthony (Beano)
4 years ago
Anthony (Beano)