New open plan kitchen / snug / diner layout
Julie C
3 years ago
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Comments (9)
Julie C
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Open plan kitchen layout for kitchen diner/playroom.
Comments (16)An L shaped design sounds fine to me and I think it's practicality will outweigh concerns about it dominating. I agree a soft white is nicer in an older property and a more modern look than gloss but I don't agree that a painted finish is better with young ones as it can chip- I would look for a laminate door which despite being perceived to be lower quality will likely stand up to rough treatment...See MoreOpen plan kitchen/diner/living room layout
Comments (7)I would say first and foremost that as this is a large project, you can't do without a concept planner or someone that can draw up your plans in 3D so that you can 'vitually' walk around what you have in mind. You need to pay attention to your access doorways, they aren't marked on either plan. You will need to have the kitchen on the left and access both the pantry and utility from there. Therefore you will negate the whole of that wall for access to those two rooms. Placement of furniture that you would like / need has to be thought about along with the build. It's just as important. The 1st floor doesn't seem to work as there is no access to the Family Bathroom on the plan. Obviously you know the actual shape of the stairs and there are no dimensions which makes it difficult. However, you may need to create a landing and thus you would, if you use the layout given have to sacrifice one of the bedrooms or change the plan. A planner is essential, one that can give you the rooms sizes that you want and utilise the space available....See MoreLighting Plan for Open Plan Kitchen / Diner / Lounge
Comments (4)If it were me firstly I would have one switch for task lighting- I think your planned 4 spots in the island boxing is enough but would have them in a row. I would have an additional 4 in a row in the ceiling above the walkway between the island and the main run of kitchen cabinets plus an additional two behind the sofa (but put a softer bulb in these). I would have two in the ceiling above the sink as I think it is tidier than having a wall light. Don’t forget to put a few in the laundry cupboard too. Since your extension ceiling is sloped I would have inset spots that you can angle. Personally I think that when you use the desk you switch on a desk light. I would have a ring of 3amp sockets so that you can switch on two table lights in the sitting area and two standard lamps in the dining area (or two table lights on a console table) and the LEDs above the bookcases. In my opinion you specify more than you need as you don’t have to plug something into every socket but the flexibility is useful. Personally I don’t think you need the coving light in the sitting area and think the idea is odd in an area with sloping ceilings. Next I would have additional kitchen lighting - I would have a run of LEDs under the base cabinets near the plinth and around the base of the island- these are nice to have on at night when watching TV as the kitchen is not fully lit but is light enough to navigate. Additionally I would have lights above and below the wall cabinets. I also like your idea of the boxing above the island having a shadow gap to conceal further LED strip lighting. Pendant lights- I agree that you won’t want one in the sitting area. I think it is messy to have pendants over the island with the additional boxing. I would have one over the dining table and choose an oversized fixture later- ensure that this lighting flex is near somewhere strong enough to mount a ceiling light of some size. Additionally I would have walk over lights in the floor near the garden doors. Remember these will reduce the focus of the garden at night- you might prefer to put these on the outside of the door to reverse the effect. Don’t forget to specify at least one socket behind the cabinets/ under island should any of the kitchen cabinets include lighting- this is especially useful in pantry cabinets. Don’t forget that you will likely need additional sockets in the laundry cupboard as you might well have a charger in there for a vacuum or drill. Personally I would have extra sockets around the desk and contain the router, you home answer phone, etc etc all in the same place. Don’t forget you can also get sockets that include a USB charger inlet. Since you are doing a plan for electrics don’t forget tv/ satellite aerial points. You should also take this opportunity to consider outside lights and power- consider sockets outside for garden lights, outdoor heaters, awnings, water features, mowing the lawn etc. LEDs unless you like decorating in very dark colours choose warm white lighting- a lot of strip LEDs can be adjusted to color match other lights in the room. LEDs- Last time I sourced these I was disappointed with the quoted costs from the electrician- do your own research online about price. Pay attention to the lumen levels and consider if you want disable LEDs. Boxing over the island. Choose your extractor before specifying the size of the boxing- I think the shallower extractors are deeper than the 20cm you stated....See MoreAdvice on layout for 1930s kitchen/diner/snug extension.
Comments (5)Hi, If i may I would like to ask about the extension first: Why are you not building over the boundary with your neighbour. This would allow you to build the extension in line with the existing party wall. As you are building within 3M of the neighbours property you still need a party wall agreement. Judging by the single roof light can I assume the roof is pitched from existing rear wall to new rear extension wall. If the side wall moved over then it would help to make the shape of the room more uniformed. The return nib could also be removed with the inclusion of a post of approx size 90mm x 90mm. Will the extension roof be vaulted or will the existing ceiling run through into the extension? Will the new support beams be inserted into the ceiling void or will they sit down under the ceiling? It looks to me as though the brushes steel cooker hood does not suit either of the kitchen styles. The separation of the hood also breaks up the flow of the wall units which I find a bit distracting. The island seating seems to be facing the wrong direction especially as you have removed the posts now. If I was designing the kitchen I would want the space to work for me. Currently there seems to be a lot of circulation space which could be better managed with a smarter kitchen layout. I would look at the island and write down what I want it to bring to the kitchen. Is is a focal point, where will my guests be looking from the stools, will I be cooking or prepping food on the island, how does the kitchen triangle rule work with this layout. It may be worth considering removing all of the kitchen units on the wall adjacent to the lounge and moving the island up by 600mm. Then I would looking at the position of the kitchen units on the other wall and consider only having only wall and floor units to stylise the design. The american fridge would need to be found a space. Not much help but something to chew on....See MoreJulie C
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