I have built-in closets under the eaves of an American Bungalow style house in three bedrooms. They measure about 6'x 4', and my son even has a bed in one that is slightly larger, but the ceiling height is between about 2 1/2 and just barely 5 feet, so they aren't as efficient as they can be. In the master, I moved the rod to the back wall (it used to be only the depth of a hanger from the door) and down to a height to hang shirts and jackets, a little over 3' up, and this freed up the two existing short rods on the sides that are set about 4 plus feet up from the floor--long enough for most dresses, skirts and suits and such. This sort of U shaped arrangement works pretty well and the corners are for boxed out of season clothes and a short revolving (sort of a wire Lazy Susan) shoe rack.

You need some earth to plant in. You could do it all in pots and planters but in the ground is better and less demanding on the maintenance front. You'll be removing the raised decking but may be replacing the pergola above it, shading the area probably too much for effective planting. Put something else such as seating or table and chairs there for now. The rest of the ground is currently covered in bricks and concrete apart from the barbeque area, which is decking. From what you've said that decking is in decent condition. So now we go to work. I'm setting this work out in sections as a DIY project which could be done stage by stage over any period of time, or periods of time with gaps between, that you choose. I would extend the period of my plan if progress is slow, speed it up if progress is better than anticipated. My plan would start with removing the weeds and dried out plants from the raised beds, both the brick walled and the wooden walled ones. They would be planted with what I want to put there after the soil had been seriously refreshed by mixing in a good amount of fresh compost. Something like three or four inches depth of compost mixed with the top four or five inches depth of soil in the raised bed. My next priority would be to create more growing space. To do that I would remove quite a lot of the bricks from the ground, clean them off as well as I could and store them for now. Some will probably break up, and those would be dumped. The good ones can be used as temporary access paths and pot stands, which will be moved around throughout the following stages. Lots of compost would be added to the newly revealed soil and that is where the next stage of planting would occur. The concrete next. We need to know how thick it is and that will be easy to see at the previous stage with a few bricks removed. Very thick? That's a tough job. Two inches thick? An inch? Less? The thinner the easier. A few whacks with a heavy hammer should break a thin layer up. If it is too thick for that you will need to hire somebody with the effective machinery for the job. I can't see the access in the pix so cannot guide you on what machinery. There is nothing broken up concrete can be used for so it has to go. The revealed earth needs to be revived in the same way as the rest was before planting takes place. We have ended up with bare earth, maybe some bricks left in the ground but otherwise just what we've planted and the loosely laid bricks. Where do you want your path now it's to become a more permanent feature? Don't forget access to the raised beds so you can tend the plants. Where do you want your potted plants? The path and the bases for the pots can now be made stable by putting the bricks back into the ground. I prefer them on their sides but that is up to you. Flat as they are now, on their sides, or a mixture, perhaps side on for the paving and flat as pot supports? I would experiment a little if I hadn't used bricks this way before. No way is right or wrong. It is all down to personal preference. Any bricks still in the ground from the beginning can now be either taken out and used in the plan or perhaps a few have happily ended up just where they're needed. So there is a way forward with very little spending involved. Seeds are mostly very cheap. Plants are cheaper than other materials, labour or professional services. You will swear a lot, sweat a lot and have lots of fun. You will also learn a great deal. If you do end up still feeling you need help you will understand exactly how to brief the professional you appoint.

Hi Dean, I think you could achieve an awful lot with some relatively inexpensive landscaping and exterior details to add character. As others have suggested painting the render white would help. Then I would really focus on introducing greenery with a low box hedge to the front (which also helps to stop people standing right outside ground floor windows) then window boxes to the 4 wide windows above. I like the idea of making the entrance a bit grander like older mansion flat blocks. Paint the double doors glossy black, add lanterns either side and use period brass details to give it a quality look. Black half railings/grills to the two central windows also helps continue the theme as do the tree guards to the front. A slightly more expensive update would be to replace the pathway leading to the doors with something else but it would definitely help balance and improve the overall front look I think.

If you feeling brave, dark stains such as black look stunning and help the building to visually recede against the backdrop of vegetation. It's the tradition finish for agriculture buildings and has a very contemporary look. I'd contrast it with a pale grey deck or beige gravel or stone if you want something warmer. The building needs grounding in its setting, ie. connect it with a path and some planting to prevent it looking like it's been dropped from space! It's going to be a great facility to have in the garden.