Painting Idea: For Wardrobe [Unknown Material]

7 years ago

Hi All,

I have these built-in wardrobes in a room that gets little light (see pictures). I like them, but I'd like to brighten them up a lot by painting them white, or a light grey.

I'm thinking of a gloss white finish, like you would see on an interior door.

I'm struggling to understand how I would pain them, as I realise that there is no room to get it wrong really, and once I begin, I can't really change my mind.

Not sure what the material is either. At a guess, I think it is MDF with laminate surface, just because the wood seems quite dense and solid, and the doors are fairly thin.

The pics might make it obvious to someone.

So essentially, what would the best process be? Any recommended paint products for this type of job?

Feel free to throw ideas my way, I'd really appreciate any.

Thanks in advance :)

Featured Answer

caleb_taylor62

7 years ago

With experience in the specialist painting & decorating sector I would fully endorse the use of Zinsser B-I-N primer. To prep the surface you need to wash the entire surface thoroughly with Methylated Spirits as Zinsser B-I-N primer is a shellac based product dissolved in a pigmented alcohol solution. It is important that you do not sand down the surface or attempt to clean it with White Spirits which will react with the B-I-N primer. All brushes or painting tools should be cleaned out with Methylated Spirits. The primer drys very quickly and you will have to work relatively fast to keep a 'wet-edge' to at the point where you are painting and to work in a systematic manner, please see the notes below;

Paint the door edge, you should always paint the edge you will see if the door is open. Number 1 in diagram. If it is an exterior door you should also paint the top of the door, and the bottom if you can.
Paint the panels. Numbers 2-7 in diagram.
Paint the top mullion and rail, numbers 8 and 9 in diagram, and work through all mullions and rails finishing with the bottom rail. Number 14 in diagram.
Finally paint the two stiles. Numbers 15 and 16 in diagram.
If you are using gloss, check to ensure the paint hasn’t run off the panels, if there are runs simply brush them out with a dry brush.
You should now have a newly painted door!

NOTES:

Stiles: vertical parts
Mullion: vertical parts between panels
Rails: horizontal parts
Panels: moulded ‘inset’ shaped areas

Once you have finished priming the unit with the B-I-N primer you have complete flexibility with the choice of top coat you use. I don't have a lot of experience in the 'top-coat' sector, although I personally have always been a fan of the Colourtrend or Little Green range of paints. Colourtrend do a Ceramic Matt finish which is one of the most durable matt finishes available, alternatively if you want a gloss finish I would tend to go with an oil-based gloss (This would be compatible with White Spirits) mixed with a little Owatrol Oil to aid adhesion and flow. This also allows the paint to 'self-level' a little giving you a better finish. One of the key things to obtaining a good finish also depends on the brush you use and I would recommend either Purdy or Wooster brushes in a couple of sizes for example a 1.5" for the smaller detailed parts and a 2 1/2 - 3" for the broader areas, these are expensive but will give you the best finish possible from a brush. Another point worth considering would be to remove all door / drawer handles before you start, this removes the necessity to try and mask them off and won't leave you with the circular brush lines around each fixing point.

Happy painting.

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Comments (26)

hoveyvonne
7 years ago
Hi. I have painted my pine furniture with both a French chalk paint and also the Mylands flat eggshell, Mylands is amazing, string, durable and flat sheen. But I would say with a laminate finish the only option is the French chalk paint. It does not have to be shabby chic, you can paint it to look normal and it's dead easy to work with. Good luck
Tom Howlett thanked hoveyvonne
Tom Howlett
Original Author
7 years ago
Thanks, I will have a look at that Mylands one.

I suppose a chalk paint would be okay. I was considering a gloss finish, but that could be a bit over-the-top as the wardrobe is pretty significant in the room.
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I'm assuming that this is the master bedroom and you are trying to create a more adult and sophisticated scheme. Also, you mentioned that the bed is going into a spare room, so we're discussing pretty much a blank canvas. As this is your room, it would not be sensible to remove or make the wardrobes smaller since you need them. You may be able to split the single door into a top-half door with a fixed bottom and add a chest of drawers below the window that is fitted from the left hand wall to the fixed half door. Why would you choose the paint colour and paper before your bed? There are endless variations of paint and paper; far more than bed choices. Start with the furniture, then the decor. You could purchase your bed and base separately from a headboard and match the base to the bedside cabinets. Decide what shape and height headboard you want. You could have an oversized headboard or even upholster panels to fit wall to wall and floor to ceiling at the head of the bed, making a feature of that wall. I would keep the decorating of the walls the same, rather than have a feature decor wall. Breaking up the decor of the walls in a small room will make the room appear even smaller. Also, the colour you choose for the walls will be heavily influenced by the light at different times of the day. If the room appears dark throughout the day, don't fight it. Instead make the walls dark and cozy. If you plan to use the patchwork quilt again, look at dark denim blue or a deeper raspberry. Finally, the windows. Keep the window dressings simple with roller blinds or Roman blinds. You can use ready mades or choose a fabric you love and ask your local blind dealer if blinds can be made for you. Have them outside the recesses for better light control. Good luck.
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As said before, you will need a bonding primer. Two I know of are zinsser bullseye 123 primer and Owatrol ESP (easy surface primer). Both of these (and there might be other brands as well) can be used without sanding the surface first but remember to sugar soap them first to remove residues. Haven't used the zinsser but heard a lot of good things about it. ESP is expensive but goes a long way, basically it creates a film which etches into the surface beneath it. Two or three top coats of chosen paint finish, job done. I've used ESP on veneer and it does bond really well but can't speak for it's longevity, paint chipping, knocks etc. might be as well to use a multi purpose primer after the bonding primer and then the top coats. Use a foam gloss roller for a nice even finish. This sounds a bit confusing so steps are: 1. Sugar soap surface 2. Wipe off sugar soap 3. Bonding primer, follow instructions 4. Multi use primer or top coat 5. 2-3 layers of top coat. Alternatively you could you use Annie Sloan chalk paint which also doesn't require sanding first and use a clear wax or lacquer to finish.
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hoveyvonne
7 years ago
Tom

I have painted my 1906 original fireplaces with the chalk paint, they look amazing in the flat chalk finish, and why I did these with the chalk paint is because I did not want to use an undercoat and two paint layers on the fine detail and features of the fire surround. Mylands of London is the best paint in my book, but a lot of work priming, undercoat and two layers, and best for furniture that needs more hard paint protection.

I would do the wardrobe in chalk paint very easy to use and sticks to laminate .
Tom Howlett thanked hoveyvonne
Tracy Sidaway
7 years ago
I did mine with Zinnser primer, you can use any top coat of your choice (I used dulux trade eggshell). I think eggshell would be better than gloss. This would be far more durable than chalk paint.
Tom Howlett thanked Tracy Sidaway
minnie101
7 years ago
I'm not sure what chalk paint Yvonne used but I personally found Annie Sloan is difficult to work with in the White colours (dark was easy) and took a few coats rather than the typical one. They also need to be waxed after to protect the paint or it very easily marks and oil from your hands etc will transfer. The waxing is very hard work and you should practice on something beforehand or it will have an odd finish. I personally would go for the zinsser and eggshell option.
Tom Howlett thanked minnie101
Judith Evans
7 years ago
Hi - it's a long time since I painted any interior furniture but one thing I did learn and that was to stay clear of gloss paint. Thinking the gloss finish would make my room look bigger and smarter I happily painted away feeling quite smug with myself. It was horrible! It showed every mark, reflected everything in the room and just emphasized the small, cramped room that it was.

I'm not familiar with current paints,but I would definitely go for a matt finish. Good luck and hope it all goes well.
Tom Howlett thanked Judith Evans
Tom Howlett
Original Author
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Thanks for the heads up. I assumed gloss would look nicer, but now reconsidering.
So I can prime the surface and use a standard emulsion paint?

Anyone had any experience of one-coat paints, or those that claim to be good for cupboards or to re-do the kitchen units? Or stay away from those?

I think my main concern is the result. I doubt it will look showroom standard, but I'd be happy if it wasn't far from that :)
allyv61
7 years ago
Annie Sloan chalk in dark colour is great and you don't prime etc but do have to wax. Valspur has does a chalk paint that you don't need to prime beforehand or wax. It's an all in one. Very easy to use too. I painted my fireplace with Annie Sloan. 2 coats. Before and after shown. Found it very easy to do
Tracy Sidaway
7 years ago
I don't think emulsion will be durable enough. once you've primed, you can use any topcoat, I use eggshell. Go for the best you can afford, the trade range of paints are good if you have dulux or Johnstones center near you? your wardrobes should be easy enough, the large flat areas can be rollered.
Tom Howlett thanked Tracy Sidaway
jross71
7 years ago
Paint it all out in the same colour, doesn't look like there's much of a ceiling plate but lots of awkward angles and lie-ins - painting the wardrobe and everything around it, walls, ceiling, will let it disappear and not dominate negating the need to brighten it up!
Tom Howlett thanked jross71
lottiefenwick
7 years ago
I would absolutely recommend Zinsser Bin (shellac based) as a primer. Amazing stuff, it sticks to everything and you can follow it with either an oil based or water based topcoat. Go for the Bin rather than Zinsser Bullseye (the water based version) as I have found it to be far stronger. Make sure the room is well ventilated though as it gives you a headache if not! For the top coat I would probably go for an eggshell/ satin finish (Johnstones Aqua is good and dries quickly), but a gloss would look nice too depending on your style. If you are going for a gloss finish then Sikkens AZ plus is brilliant. It makes it easy and gives an amazing finish, very shiny and the brush strokes level themselves really well. It is oil based though so takes a couple of days to dry. Probably best to remove your clothes first!
Tom Howlett thanked lottiefenwick
Jonathan
7 years ago
Love the last comment to remove your clothes- presumably this means empty the wardrobe rather than paint naked!
My advice is primer, then topcoat of your choice- it will likely need two brushed coats and you might add a third roller last coat for an even finish.
Tom Howlett thanked Jonathan
allyv61
7 years ago
Zinseer bin as a primer is by far the best and dries very quickly. I used it as primer for upvc Windows before painting. Either approaches work and is personal choice. Also to do with your patience and how quickly you want it done
Tom Howlett thanked allyv61
Emma Bell
7 years ago
I have just used Rustoleumm Chalky Finish Furniture Paint in Flint. No priming or sanding necessary. I couldn't believe it would work, but it has turned an ugly old table into a smart desk for my son.
Tom Howlett thanked Emma Bell
cdhs80
7 years ago
I so agree, go with matt! If you do want high gloss, I don't know if it's still available, but I have used Valentine paints on wooden ( horse drawn vehicles ) in the past and they were lovely to use and, using the grey undercoat first, then the gloss, they give an incredible high gloss finish.
Tom Howlett thanked cdhs80
wendym99
7 years ago
Hello Tom

Find a good car body works company/friend and have them spray the doors for you then you can just paint the trim- we have had our kitchen doors and bedroom furniture updated this way- ask for a matt finish

Wendy
Tom Howlett thanked wendym99
Sonia
7 years ago
Just used Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in Old White on a solid pine unvarnished wardrobe. I watched YouTube tutorials and got advice from the shop that sold me the paint. I HATE it! Really difficult to work with, paint brush drags making my hand ache. I was told 1 or 2 coats would do but had to use 3 and I can still see the wood through it. I was told it would only use up half a pot of paint, but it has used nearly all of it. The chap who advised me (sells painted furniture for a living) said it can be finished with wax (hard work) or a Matt varnish (easier). He showed me furniture in these finishes and I chose the varnish. It was really easy to apply but has accentuated the wood colouring underneath. I'm so annoyed that after all my hard work it looks pretty rank. I wish I had used traditional primer and satinwood paint instead!
Tom Howlett thanked Sonia
PRO
Casa flor
7 years ago
Very interesting to read advice as I am in the same dilemma on my wardrobes which are not solid wood. I've tried furniture chalk paint on a small area and after leaving it for a day checked how durable it was and I could scrape it off with my nail so realised that wasn't going to work. I then just wiped it off with a cloth!! I'm still wondering what to try so will look at all these suggestions.
snagglepuss47
7 years ago
I've used Annie Sloan paint a lot and I'd describe it as a craft paint as you don't get a smooth finish like you would with an acrylic or gloss paint. It can look amazing and a little goes a long way. It covers everything, is quick to dry and easy to wax but you get brush strokes, bobbles and it can look quite rustic. If you want a nice smooth finish I've found dulux difficult surfaces primer very good - I've even used it to paint over hideous 1970s tiles. Use a couple of coats to get a good coverage then follow up with a water based eggshell, Farrow and Ball or Little Greene are good, but everyone has their own favourite brand. Good luck with your project.
Tom Howlett thanked snagglepuss47
obobble
7 years ago
You can get a special type of paint for making over kitchen cabinets/ melamine, but I f you go for satinwood instead I'd recommend an oil based one, much easier to work with than water based for large surfaces. Difficult to keep a wet edge and avoid brush strokes with the water based..
Tom Howlett thanked obobble
alyper
7 years ago
I've used both emulsion and chalk paint direct onto surfaces with no problem, and to give a soft gloss and wipeable finish, gone over it with beeswax polish. No need to rub in or make it hard work, just wipe it on evenly with a soft cloth and buff up. How about leaving the wood surround/trim, and just paint the panels?
Tom Howlett thanked alyper
Lynnette Henson
7 years ago
I've just painted an antique pine chest using a primer called permoglaze followed by two coats of farrow and ball lime white eggshell estate emulsion. Good luck!
Tom Howlett thanked Lynnette Henson
angelboyman
7 years ago
Buy yourself some Owatrol ESP - it's not cheap, but once applied it will let you paint ANY surface without any prep. I've just successfully hand painted a Ikea Varde kitchen (photos to follow!) whereby the doors were melamine. The paint has stuck to it beautifully, though I did use Little Greene Paint Company (which is also AMAZING paint - goes on like a pro and the coverage is second to none!). It just goes on like water, gets a little sticky, dries and then you can paint over with no problems.
Tom Howlett thanked angelboyman
Tom Howlett
Original Author
7 years ago
Wow, thanks guys! Much to think about, but I have got some great ideas with how to tackle it. I shall update you all with the finished product when complete.

Such a nice community here, will have to find some more dilemmas :P
Lorraine Wilson-Brown
7 years ago
I've painted melamine furniture a lot over the years with great success. You will need to use a melamine primer (International make one but I'm sure there are lots of other brands nowadays) and then you can use any type of paint as a final finish. I've usually used a matt, satin or eggshell finish as I prefer this to gloss. It would be best to use a foam roller on the flat sections as you'll get a better finish. Good luck and I look forward to seeing the finished wardrobes.
Tom Howlett thanked Lorraine Wilson-Brown

Painting Idea: For Wardrobe [Unknown Material]

caleb_taylor62

Comments (26)

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