Utility room size and layout advice please for megaflo
5 years ago
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- 5 years ago
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Kitchen Diner Living Layout Plans - Advice Please
Comments (31)Hi Keswing, I had exactly the same problem with my hubby!!! Haha! The great thing with concept planners is they will pass their trade discounts onto you! We actually used Gina from Create Perfect on here (but she does exactly the same as OnePlan) who I would highly recommend and the fab thing was that even after her fees it saved us money because she passed on all the trade discounts! I highly recommend getting in touch with OnePlan and Create Perfect and getting quotes from both of them. If you ask them both to send you the list of companies they get trade discount with then you can show that to your hubby and knowing you're in the market for some serious spending on a kitchen and presumably a bit of new furniture then you'll be able to show it's cost neutral! :) We saved over £1,500 in our kitchen alone through Create Perfect getting us discounts with our chosen suppliers (probably worth noting that it doesn't limit your choices as the kitchen company we chose from her concept plan she'd never dealt with before but she set up a trade account just for us, the same for our underfloor heating and actual floor) Hope it helps and good luck!...See MoreFirst home - layout advice, please?
Comments (4)Hi Kjsher77, Just as I am passing through, (and realising that this is a very old post) I would still advise moving the boiler to the loft so you can, in the future install an extra water tank or Megaflow for increased pressure and hot water. This way the boiler doesn't have to heat water downstairs, pump it to the top for it to come down again. It is also safer for the potentially toxic gases (VERY UNLIKELY) that can come from boilers like Carbon Monoxide as the flue goes straight out the roof. If you install the boiler and tank as close as possible to the front eaves of the house then you are also future proofing for any potential loft extension you may want to do (without having to redo pipework). I know you haven't mentioned this but its worth considering just in case. Otherwise, I agree with Jonathan's breakdown of costs and would concentrate on upgrading insulation, and making sure all the electrics, gas and plumbing are up to scratch before doing cosmetic or architectural work. It may be worth simply replacing the kitchen with a new cheap one whilst you save more money to do the full project. Good luck!...See MoreLayout advice please
Comments (34)Hello Steph, I would reduce the size of the stairs and add the extra space gained to the kitchen area. Add some glass doors between the hall and kitchen so that you can see right through when walking through the front door. Similarly use glass internal doors between the living room and the rear seating area. This allows some formality to the living room to be retained. Remove the chimney breast. at the rear. Downstairs showers are rarely used so that front bathroom could be modified to incorporate a small utility room and cloakroom. Washers and dryers can be stacked. My children shared and were happy with that until they were 10 and 8 so allow for that. There seems to be a lot more washing when they are young so a bedroom could be used for drying for a few years. I had one client with teenagers who lived in their bedrooms before work started. she commened after the house was opened up that they were now happy to be downstairs and enjoy the company although whilst still on their laptops....See More1930s semi-detached single storey extension layout advice please
Comments (14)Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew...See More- 5 years ago
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Jonathan