Utility room size and layout advice please for megaflo
We are planning an extension and are about to draw the internal structural plans.
A utility room is currently planned to be 2100 mm x 1800mm and we would like it to fit a 250L megaflo, boiler, washing machine and small sink (plus a broom or two, if clever storage can be made). My questions are:
(1) are these dimensions sufficient to fit the above items (with all the pipework etc.)
(2) how best to lay it all out. We won't be doing any ironing or anything in the room - just need space to access all the appliances.
Never done an extention before, really struggling to visualise the space, and would be grateful for thoughts, as at this stage there is room to change things.
Provisional drawing attached. Thank you!
Comments (12)
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Utility Room Design help please!
Comments (6)Here’s a few things I’m doing in our planned utility (smaller than yours!) which might work for you: - Electric towel rail for heating so I can easily have that room heated when the general heating is off. Better than underfloor heating for this scenario as ufh is quite slow to warm up, also the towel rail can be used to dry off wet gloves, hats, coats in the winter. - Pocket door so it doesn’t get in the way of any cupboards - Mirrored splashback and handleless doors to make the room seem wider (ours is only 1.7m wide, not so necessary for you perhaps) - Stacked washer and dryer using stacking kit with pull out shelf between. I find this easier than having everything at floor level. If you want yours side by side, I would suggest raising them up a bit to save your back, and get drawers fitted underneath to hold all the laundry liquids. Otherwise, I’d suggest a slim pull out unit nearby to hold the liquids. - I will get a section of worktop made to fit over the sink so I have more workspace when the sink is not in use. - Broom cupboard organiser like this one: https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/pull-out-vacuum-cleaner-accessory-rack-full-extension-load-capacity-40-kg-steel/0000009e000086d000060023/#SearchParameter=&Category=W7zAqBtG8MYAAAFPNrI4lnbm&checkbox_fs_wardrobe_fittings_product=Cabinet+Storage+Systems&@P.FF.followSearch=9972&PageNumber=1&OriginalPageSize=12&PageSize=12&Position=7&OrigPos=&ProductListSize=30 - Wall cupboards! You don’t have any on your plan? I would certainly add some, or open shelves which are more practical but less tidy. In fact I’m having wall cabinets and another row of wall cabinets above them for things used occasionally (christmas decorations etc) as we have high ceilings. - We will have a tall slot next to the broom cupboard to hold ironing board and ladder. - How about a transom/clerestory window (up high) to add more light without getting in the way of cabinets? Or, a narrow window each side of the door would fit, since wall cabinets aren’t as deep as base cabinets....See MoreFirst home - layout advice, please?
Comments (4)Hi Kjsher77, Just as I am passing through, (and realising that this is a very old post) I would still advise moving the boiler to the loft so you can, in the future install an extra water tank or Megaflow for increased pressure and hot water. This way the boiler doesn't have to heat water downstairs, pump it to the top for it to come down again. It is also safer for the potentially toxic gases (VERY UNLIKELY) that can come from boilers like Carbon Monoxide as the flue goes straight out the roof. If you install the boiler and tank as close as possible to the front eaves of the house then you are also future proofing for any potential loft extension you may want to do (without having to redo pipework). I know you haven't mentioned this but its worth considering just in case. Otherwise, I agree with Jonathan's breakdown of costs and would concentrate on upgrading insulation, and making sure all the electrics, gas and plumbing are up to scratch before doing cosmetic or architectural work. It may be worth simply replacing the kitchen with a new cheap one whilst you save more money to do the full project. Good luck!...See MoreLayout advice please
Comments (34)Hello Steph, I would reduce the size of the stairs and add the extra space gained to the kitchen area. Add some glass doors between the hall and kitchen so that you can see right through when walking through the front door. Similarly use glass internal doors between the living room and the rear seating area. This allows some formality to the living room to be retained. Remove the chimney breast. at the rear. Downstairs showers are rarely used so that front bathroom could be modified to incorporate a small utility room and cloakroom. Washers and dryers can be stacked. My children shared and were happy with that until they were 10 and 8 so allow for that. There seems to be a lot more washing when they are young so a bedroom could be used for drying for a few years. I had one client with teenagers who lived in their bedrooms before work started. she commened after the house was opened up that they were now happy to be downstairs and enjoy the company although whilst still on their laptops....See More1930s semi-detached single storey extension layout advice please
Comments (16)Hello and thanks for your prompt reply. The drawings provided show that the support beams are 203mm depth and therefore they will be too big to sit inside the ceiling void. As the weight per linear m is 23Kg as detailed on the drawings it may be worth asking the engineer to reduce the depth and and increase the weight so the beam can be inserted into the ceiling void. I note that there is also a couple of posts in the stud wall and these could be upgraded if necessary. I do not make these suggestions lightly. The main benefit of inserting the beam inside the ceiling is the removal of the shadow cast on the ceiling. The return nibs on either end could be cut back and if needed posts could be fixed direct to the brickwork to provide vertical support. There may need to be a spreader plate welded to the bottom of the post in order to mitigate the point load on the foundation. Obviously this is more of a structural design issue. Is there a good reason for not centring the bifold doors to the external wall? You have so much height on the flat roof why not put a warm deck roof on instead of a cold deck with in cross ventilation? Can I also suggest a warm pitched roof too. You may find Web Dynamics TLX Goldto be a very useful form of insulation as you will only need about 75mm of PIR insulation in between the rafters. I've never been fortunate enough to meet a building control officer willing to accept a heavy duty Catnic lintel over a 4M bifold door. I thought the under stairs might be the position of the meters. I would consider relocating these to an outside wall. Then turn the WC through 90 degrees and design it under the stairs. If I was planning a kitchen diner extension with a beautiful bi-fold door looking out into the rear garden would try and create a direct flow from front of house to the back. I would move the utility room into the middle of the house to provide a direct line of sight from the front door to the rear garden. GD3 would provide access into the utility room. I'd consider moving the door along the living room wall so it could open into the hallway. This would allow a 950mm wide fully glazed door to be placed between the hallway and the kitchen diner. With regard to the position of the new extension wall which is adjacent to your adjoining neighbour I suggest that you look up the party wall act 1996 booklet online here - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf The part that is of interest is "Line of junction - building astride the boundary". If you build across the boundary you should gain at least 150mm of additional internal floor space along the length of the outside wall. Also if in the future your neighbour decides to build an extension they can utilise your wall for if they pay half of the cost of its construction. I'm sure you know that you are responsible for paying all of the costs from all sides relating to the party wall agreement. If the neighbour on the other side is within 3/6m then you will need an agreement with them as well. The architects drawing indicates that the drain is not adopted or shared and therefore you will not require a build over agreement with the water authority. Best wishes Andrew...See More- 7 years ago
- 7 years agoGiven what you have said so far I think there is room for the current fridge/freezer opposite the sink and the boiler on the wall. But before you decide on a final plan I think you need to think about what really needs to go in the room...... for instance do you really need the sink or do you need space for the ironing board, steam mop, vacuum cleaner, cordless vacuum, cleaning supplies, DIY materials, etc
- 7 years ago
Yes. The sink is a must, as are the megaflo, washing machine, and wall mounted boiler. Anything else is a bonus!
However, we are at the stage where the actual size of the room could be changed if necessary (the 2100 wall could be extended or reduced, the 1800mm wall can't) - so the current decision is whether to make it bigger. If all the above items could comfortably fit into 2100 x 1800 (and as you suggest, that seems to be the case) then we would rather not make the room any bigger, as it will encroach on other areas of the extension (an 1800 x 550 mm bedroom closet which is the other side of the 1800mm wall where the megaflo is).
Am now wondering if we could get away with a 2000mm instead of 2100mm room?!!
I saw this photo on Houzz and thought it was a nice layout. I like the way one machine can somehow be accommodated under the sink area/ draining board:
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Thanks for all your advice so far. This forum is amazing! We are complete novices when it comes to renovating, and have a large project ahead of us. - 7 years agoIf you do a search of the photos on Houzz you will find lots of inspiration. Try a search for Utility cupboard.
Since you don’t actually want to put much in here I say make it smaller
Su Esse thanked Jonathan - PRO7 years ago
I'd get as much storage as possible out of it. I do say keep all the plumbed items as close as possible to each other. You have room for more storage. So i'd go with the washing machine under the unit with a corner cupboard for storage. Then the sink unit with another floor to ceiling cupboard for brooms etc. Shelves in the middle. So either this:- The cupboard marked Slimline is so that you have room for all the pipes to be accessed on your Megaflo, if you put a larger cupboard in you'll close the gap, so I marked it as a cupboard, but you may have room for the Fridge Freezer there instead.
You have to allow 650mm on cupboards for the plumbing behind and to adjust for walls that aren't true. So if you went with 650 Unit on the left ( above pic ), then 850mm for your door and another 650 to allow for the Fridge Freezer you've used 2150mm , 5mm ( not a lot ) than you already have, so i would be wary of trying to make the room smaller. Obviously the 650mm is an allowance and you would fit those items in, but it does soon get used up.
Su Esse thanked User - 7 years ago
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Jonathan